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Barnstormer

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Barnstormer last won the day on February 6 2018

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About Barnstormer

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    BSCortina Addict

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    Mk2 Cortina

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  1. It will help in your search if you can let people know what size engine you have as 1600 sumps are slightly different to 1300 ones to clear the con rod bolts.
  2. 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear ratios are completely different but 4th is the same as it is a direct gear. However, to change a 3.5 box to a 2.97 box you need an input shaft, 3rd mainshaft gear plus the 2nd motion / laygear that sits in the bottom of the box from a 2.97:1 gearbox. You may need other parts also depending on a few things. Only the 1st and 2nd physical gears on the mainshaft are the same between the two boxes. The ratios are not the same across the two boxes (3.5 and 2.97) as the the ratios (even 1st and 2nd) are made up of a combination of two sets of gears to make each ratio for each gear, except for 4th due to being direct. Finding the gears you need on their own would probably be harder than just buying a 2000e gearbox.
  3. Yeah they are kinked, and the other bit on it is for later engines - just clamps it to the block at the side of number 3 main bearing. You could drill and tap your block if you find one of those Caterham pick-up pipes as 2731 blocks don't have the thread. You could possibly bend yours. I would be worried about creasing the pipe though - perhaps fill it with sand(?) and/or heat up.
  4. Ah OK, a Caterham sump - the pickup pipe isn't like anything you'll find easily. It has a rectangular pick-up face and gauze - see picture. I have seen custom made ones using a modified 1300 or 1600 mk1 / mk2 escort pickup pipe - you use the mk1 / mk2 escort gauze filter so it's not like the one below but should do the job. Sounds like you need to make a custom one, or keep your fingers crossed you find one!
  5. You could probably make some with some basic moulds and rubber! Getting a set is likely impossible as the demand for them is likely to be small. I've got a column change box set-up to go in a car and that has the same issue.
  6. What's an alloy trough sump? A photo might help me coz I'm thinking you might've got a dry sump sump for some reason?
  7. No problem, I don't always check in on here but if you need to contact me send me a PM. Or I can PM my details now, and if you ever need them you know how to get in contact.
  8. If you get the parts I can do it. I had a proper puller made to get 5th gear off - the manual basically advises you to wear goggles and prepare for the teeth to shatter with a normal puller! The manual doesn't even show a proper specific puller for the job (just a generic bearing puller). The tool I had made helps lessen the risk of breakage by a large amount.
  9. You will probably find that the 3.35 is still slightly short with a 2 litre pinto. The 4.03 1st gearbox should really be out of the question The original 1st gear 3.65:1 figures quoted above were fitted to family saloons : a family car fully loaded up with passengers - and perhaps even towing a caravan - needed a short ratio to get off the line with maybe 1.5 - 2 tonnes to pull! So Ford were cautious with ratios. Our (UK) Sierra Cosworth Borg Warner T5 WC gearboxes had the better ratios with 1st 2.95:1, 2nd 1.94:1, 3rd 1.34:1, 4th 1:1, 5th 0.80:1. This gearbox was designed for the UK market as I understand it (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). I believe some of the USA Mustangs had these ratios so maybe you can find something if you change your mind on ratios. The T5 Cosworth gearbox - despite being really heavy duty - has been used in a lot of N.A. cars in UK and it doesn't seem to work well with engines that like to rev - as they were designed for the Sierra Cosworth Turbo engine (high torque at low revs) and due to their lineage being from the V8 this also makes sense as V8's make torque low down in the rev range. In applications where revs are higher it appears to me that the synchros can't handle the rotational weight of the gears (which are already incredibly heavy before they start spinning!) and these tend to suffer. Don't be put off by this though - (I'm sure you know this) the gearbox is a very nice gearbox (if not worn out) and living behind a tame engine 4 cylinder engine should be fine. You're lucky that the support for the gearbox in the USA is amazing - anything you need for one is available right there. I wish it was so for us here in UK - gearbox prices for a T5 are crazy. In a lot of respects a T5 is far better than a Type 9 in part due to having taper roller bearings on input, output and cluster gears, and also having needle rollers under 1st and 2nd gears. The gear-change is nicer too.
  10. That's right but they wouldn't have been known as 2000e ratios then, they would have been known as sporting or "semi-close" and would have been fitted into the early type gearbox as found on 1200/1500 cortinas but fitted with the 116e remote gearchange as found originally on the 116e Consul Capri 1500gt, unless I am mistaken? The only Lotus Cortina that I know of that had a 2000e gearbox fitted was the works Lotus PHK614D (driven by Jim Clark, Graham Hill etc) which wasn't a car anybody could buy! At some point Corsairs had a new gearbox designed for them that took the old 3-rail main case found in the 1500 cortina (with wand gear lever) but used a re-designed tail-case with integral remote gearchange. This gearbox together with the sporting ratios - or semi-close - was released in the Corsair V4 2000e. To me the only gearbox that should be called a proper 2000e is the integral remote gearchange gearbox with semi-close ratios.
  11. That's incorrect - no factory available mk1 cortina used the 2000e gearbox. The 2000e gearbox wasn't even available to the public until the Corsair 2000e's release in 1967. Mk1 Cortina finished production in 1966. Also, a 2000e gearbox is not a Bullet gearbox, that is a similar looking gearbox to the 2000e but with different, closer ratios. In answer to the O.P.'s question some late type 2000e gearsets need a couple of different parts from an early type gearbox to work correctly as the oil lubrication of 1st gear's rear thrust face is dealt with in a slightly different way. Although different rear tail casings (early/late of both wand-type lever and remote type lever of 2000e style) will bolt on they are different in depth where the rear bearing carrier is. Get this wrong and you will crack the rear casing, have an oil leak, or have far too much mainshaft end-float.
  12. Try a squirt or two of "easy start" - if the engine starts with that you know you're ignition system is up to the job. Could then be a case of quality of fuel, or health of engine - have you checked its compression recently?
  13. If the starter is getting very hot in a short space of time it's looking like it's got a serious problem. I had the same problem with the starter running slow. The soldering in the windings had started to break up / melt. I overhauled it myself with a new armature - never had a problem since. Fairly easy job to do.
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