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Conversion contd.
Once the length of the arms is established, cut them allowing approximately an inch of material past the OD of the new bush hole positions. Remove the old bush holders from the off-cut, re-drill the arm and weld in the bush holder, then round off the arm end on the bench grinder. Next, re-fit the arms. If the arms are fairly parallel across the car, you can down make provision for the other two cross member bolts. I drilled and welded tubes through the chassis rail. If the arms have too much angle at the bushes, try the other two original bolt holes (move the cross member fore or aft) or make four new ones altogether.
Now, using a tape measure, set the front wheels parallel (i.e. no toe in). You can now measure the length of the two male/female extensions for your tie rod ends (all right hand thread). If you're not good with a lathe, have someone machine them up for you using 3/4" AF Hex (K1040) steel and have them professionally heat-treated after machining. I searched for longer tie rod ends for months before settling for this solution which is extremely strong anyway.
On a flat concrete floor, I heated and bent the original Cortina sway bar (to go under rack steering arms) and shortened the washer stops carefully with a grinder and file to set the caster. There are plenty of caster kits around or you can make your own adjustable mounts etc. I did not have to have the bar re-tempered, believe it or not. I let it air cool and it is still the correct temper.
The rest is straight forward. Securely bolt in the Lazer (or similar) steering, adding a bracket to bolt to the Cortina pedal mount. change the brake pipe nuts and complete brakes and bleed.
Cut the piece of Escort column to go between the Escort flexi joint and the second Uni on the new steering column. Have a spline put on the new end to match the Uni joint and fit. Cut a hole in the cover plate between the brake and clutch pedals for the new column and fit a rubber seal.
And that's about it. Take it to your friendly front-end aligner and get all the readings. If camber and caster adjustments are required and you didn't build in an adjusting system, just make the changes the easiest way you can and then get it re-checked. I only had to get a little camber out of one strut top.
I don't think I missed anything (I did mine four years ago), except to say that the only evidence to show this job has been done should be the tie rod end extensions. Everything should look like it came out of the factory and safety is paramount! If you have any doubts, pay someone else to do it for you. My car has been through a normal roadworthy even though the rack & pinion weren't standard.
Notes
Remember that camber is determined by control arm length and that caster is determined by the sway bar. The position of the cross member affects neither.
The quick rack gives one less turn than the standard Escort rack lock to lock. Don't go with the self-centering strut top rubber arrangement. It is better to grease the metal tube, use self locking or castellated nuts and leave them just loose enough for the shaft to rotate in the strut top.
I also run a 2 litre Escort gearbox and complete back axle (bigger breaks) and (much stronger, better ratios and a little wider) Ford Lazer clutch cable (modified pedal with short extension on top to accept cable). Also, if you change the gear box, you can move the motor back 3" or 4" when locating the cross member. Its all inter-related.
I will take some photos for these web pages when I have a chance. however, it is all fairly easy and straight forward. I spent over twelve months working it all out and about 8 hours to actually do it. It should be easier for anyone else as I have done all the ground work. I would suggest collecting the various bits and then sit and think about it until it is clear in your head. Then go for it. But remember, quality and safety come first! Even for a track car. All up it cost me something like AUS$350.00.
Happy Spanners!
Article submitted by Terry Conway (May 2000)
BuySellCortina 'Uniting the Cortina world'