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  1. Today
  2. First drive in 10 years 😎 Took it for a good run (about an hour) down some country lanes. Ran really well, really impressed with it
  3. Yesterday
  4. Where are the order forms then Dean......
  5. I've a good used one £50 plus p&p bout £25 I think.
  6. As said really awkward to do. Frogeye Scorpio used to be not a bad fit with bit of trimming have one in my blue 2dr.
  7. Do they always stop in that position, or in any position? If always in that position the shot arm on the back of wiper motor has been fitted in the wrong position. If they stop in any position or don't work check the fuse if it's blown check if the reverse light work. If not the plug on the switch ( next to gear stick under the car) will have fallen off onto the exhaust pipe melting the wire & blowing the fuse.
  8. For £20 of offcut/remnant, I figure it's worth a go!
  9. You think ?! Every carpet I've had out a car is 3-dimensional (it's moulded, not flat). I did get a new carpet once for an A-series Manta and whilst the old one was one bit and moulded, the new one was in several pieces....1 part for the front part of transmission tunnel, another part for the rear, parts for each footwell, other parts for along the inner sills, etc. Each piece was trimmed around the edge, it wasn't just cut. I admire you giving it a go but it might not be as easy as you think?
  10. There is nothing like that near me unfortunately, but thanks for the reply
  11. I was planning to use my old carpet as a template and cut a new one - haven't tried to yet but it seems a straightforward shape?
  12. Hello, i have a taunus tc2 so basically a lhd cortina mk4 and the wipers work fine at both speeds however when i stop them they return to the upright position as it can be seen in picture below instead of resting at the bottom of the windshield. What could be causing this issue and how could i fix it? Thanks in advance
  13. Last week
  14. some car radiator repair shops will repair your tank.
  15. Back to the steering box. I needed new bearing races so bought the overhaul kit from the chap that sells them in Ebay, on the pricey side but the quality was top notch. Bearing races are made to order and not available from anywhere else to my knowledge. Assembly was mostly done as described in the workshop manual. Since mine has a steering lock I first had to weld the reinforcement back in it's place AFTER sliding in the upper bearing race. Eh, not my best work but will do. I wanted to keep the current as low as possible. Piece of angle iron with hose clamp keeps the bearing balls from escaping during assembly. Decent vise is a must for this job. Did not lose a single ball! Though I did practice beforehand..At this point it is important to keep the shaft pressed down when installing and removing the steering column tube or there will be a right mess. Also remember to mount the column in the right orientation. I needed a thicker spacer over the upper bearing since I had to machine quite bit of material off both bearing races on the shaft. Luckily I had "couple" hard disk drive spacers on hand, very accurately machined. Made of aluminium instead of steel but so is the column flange so should be fine. New spacer. Little over 0,5mm thicker if memory serves. Shimming was a real pain. I tried the official method but the result was always too tight (bolts were correctly torqued); In the end I shimmed by feel, decent preload, no slop and moves smoothly. Also note the felt upper bearing, I had a new one but that was way too tight. Since the original felt was in good order I re-used it. There is a small washer under the felt that acts as a stop. No idea why Ford went back to felt for (most of) series 1 cars, probably cost related.. Also series 1 shaft is of different length and has a finer thread compared to series 2. Setting the rocker shaft drag. Series 2 wheel since the original is being worked on. Measured in the center position as that is the tightest. Back together and epoxy primed. Bare aluminium would of looked nifty but black is how these were. Top coat will be done after a fortnight or so. Not a hard job to do but certainly a fiddly one. Takes lots of time and must be done as cleanly as possible. I did consider putting this back together in a kiddie pool or something but in the actual assembly all the gubbins did stay where they were supposed to.
  16. Thanks for the reply. I will fill it with water and give welding it a go. I subsequently found a pinhole on the top of the the tank so will try liquid metal on that. Thanks
  17. There's no legalization involved to my knowledge, I made effective long lasting repairs withe 2 parts epoxy resin type stuff chemical metal etc. It's more effective when getting the tank spotlessly clean first. Also I've repaired & modified loads of tanks by welding over the years & fitting in tank efi pumps , lost count of cortina ones, but others Inc escort1-2, Capri all 3, HC viva, 105e & MK2 zodiac amongst others . Again down to cleaning out, & fill with water or heard of piping a running exhaust through them. It's the fumes not the liquid that are most dangerous. As before when this is brought up they're being cries of you'll die in a ball of fire etc, only if your a complete idiot yon will.
  18. Yeah some wd40 made it unstuck and i was able to adjust it further thanks for the help
  19. I finally thought there was a component on my 7 9 2-door that doesn't need throwing away until I chipped off the fiberglass filler and found a tiny 10mm or so slit. It's on the back rear quarter so I guess they reversed in to something. What, if any, are my safe, legal, and effective options for repairing. I believe welding fuel tanks is not legal (and dangerous!). Thanks
  20. Cross member finished. Cross member making kit !!!!
  21. What's his channel called please ?
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