Thanks.

Converting my tina to a pinto EFI.

couple of questions as per the pics the one with the wheel in the background the red wire is to the starter solenoid. I assume this does not need to be there as i have a separate wire i am running from the key or does it go through the ECU. also what is the black/yellow wire for?

On the second pic this is the wiring associated with the coil. I already have the neg and pos on the coil and i am left with this 3 pin plug which i believe is the fuel enrich plug i will just earth, the green wire with the plug on the end i am not sure where this goes....could this be the rev counter wire? needs to butt in to the coil

The coil picture you can see i have i think a diode from the earth to the chassis then out and have a connector? where would this go

Thanks

Is there a solution or has anybody got a mk5 motor they are physically different to look at. Cheers "Shorty"

Question is does anybody have any or where can I get some? Advise welcome as always many thanks " Shorty "

Charlie

On the rear seat bench and back, the cloth is detached from the frame (at the bottom on the back part, and at the rear on the bench part). 

Could anyone share pics of how the fabric is supposed to attach, so I can repair? 

Many thanks. 

I have a mk1 South African car which has an 8 gallon ( verified) tank but the sender is not the flat face and separate lock ring. 

My fuel sender attaches like the Mk2 one piece unit, the seal I removed was a simple neoprene/ rubber  flat ring which destroyed itself. 

Searching,  came across  Mk2 owners club lists two sender unit types with pictures ( suggesting my one looks like the late Mk2 but no seals shown)

could some body please show me the two  types of seals? 

Mk2 club numbers are 2400E-9276B  Aug 1969 onward

    and                               113E 9276S ( which I think is the flat faced sender ring with the separate lock ring  

PM me if that's appropriate or  alanlarnach@hotmail.com

Oh the joys a SA car 

Cheers Tony

I know there's a VIN decoder, but is there anywhere that lists/decodes mk4 and Mk5 parts numbers? 

Thanks 

Has any one out there done an electric power steering conversion on a 1965 ish Tina Mk.1?

I have an escort steering rack conversion and a Sierra column

 I am running 185/13 Tyres.

As I am well over 21 I am having difficulty with heavy steering.

Any info would be good.

Regards Mouse..

hi all 

Got my brakes all sorted with new 0.70" master and servo now fitted, 

The engine has the crank case breather can  on the block which was plumbed to  the vacuum take off point on the inlet under the carb, I used this spur for the servo and just fitted a little atmospheric filter on the crank case vent line in the interim.

however I believe the crank case (PCV ?) need vacuum to  operate and I may create ( more)  oil leaks

this may be a stupid question for  the experts, but  this is the advice I need 

Q:- can I simply  "T" piece into the new servo line with the crank case line with 3/8"  T piece and clamp 

there is a sweat around the oil filler cap ( escort type)  so  was thinking of getting the filler cap (Burton) with has the vent spur and plumbing it to  the pancake air filter as well  

so  crank case breathing  venting info  required 

innocently asking 

Alan 

Sorry if this has been covered before but Im fitting some GT Gauges to my MK 1 Facelift can anybody tell me where the wires go on the T and B side of the gauges we don't seem to be able to get any of them to work  (OIl pressure, Fuel Gauge, Temp Gauge, Ammeter,)

Thanks, Ray

Thanks all

cheers 

Steve.

I stumped !!!!! ( or reached my level of understanding) 

I have a Mk1 Airflow ( import) with a 711m 16 crossflow  and I'm working though it. 

Effectively the heater is on all the time and no heater valve is installed. 

The attached picture should show what I have but clearly does not show what is missing@@@@ 

The return pipe from the heater deadheads into the inlet manifold ( for twin choke) but I'm lost as to  how that circulates and where the line should go to

I can put an inline heater valve in the supply line but don't think that all that needs done  

Was moving the car yesterday from the garage and she's chucked up a couple of issues which I'm sure the knowledgeable ones will know the cause:). She ticks over ok but when i touch the accelerator she wants to stall. Secondly when reversing she's good for about 10ft then the rear pass wheel locks so i stopped and then moved back again until it locked again after 10ft and she kept on doing it. Tia

So I got new seals for my front quarter lights

How the hell do the old ones come out an the new ones go in? 

Looks like the glass an frame needs to come out but it's riveted in? Do they need drilling out? 

Or can the glass pop out a different way? 

Now cold weather has come the heater is not passing much heat. It defrosts the screen slowly but eventually but the heat coming out the other vents is tepid. Old Fords have a reputation for having good heaters.

So far I have checked the engine is warming up, yes, put temporary cardboard in front of the radiator to see if it runs warmer, no difference and didn't overheat. I also removed the matrix while still connected to heater pipes, balanced on engine top, ran engine up to warmed up, heater matrix got hot all over in fact too hot to touch with bare hands. The felt strips around the matrix perimeter are missing. 

So with a cooling system that works properly and the heater matrix gets good and hot why is the heat in the car interior vents only tepid?

Anyone experienced this before or got a reason why please? or are MK5/80 heaters not much good?

Any help appreciated. Thanks. Tim