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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/12/2024 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    pleased with this photo
  2. 3 points
    13 years and she's on the road Runs great few niggles needs 4 wheel alignment but drives brakes in a straight line Bit of play in bush on coupler worm Nice to be back in a good old Tina
  3. 3 points
    As most will notice, my mk5 Ghia has a few add-ons……. and today I added another. As a genuine spoiler is hard to find I made my own from 2 cheap eBay jobs!
  4. 2 points
    On mine it registers 12v at the coil with the ignition on stage 2 but not running and 9.88v with engine running
  5. 2 points
    After a 6 month battle with the up and over exhaust am ready for yat
  6. 2 points
    With that coil it may have burnt the points due to constant 12v rather than 9v check to see if the contacts look bluey/ black or if one is loose/fallen off.
  7. 2 points
    Ummm... so remember I mentioned that I was learning on the go and didnt have a clue about engines.... (bear that in mind) I wasn't waiting long enough for the fuel to get to the pump when I was turning on the ignition.... I thought the 'bopping' sound when I turned the key was reaaaally bad - turns out that letting it do the 'bopping' for a little longer actually meant the fuel arrived at the pump.... I did also check the fuel line further back under the car in case there was a blockage and when checked fuel came spilling out (I doubt that had anything to do with it though!) lol But the important part of all of this today: I learnt something new! Haha! Thank you again for all your time and help!
  8. 2 points
    Simplest thing is to remove the hose at the carb and put the end into a glass jar. Turn the engine over and see if fuel comes out. That at least will tell you if it's pumping up to the carbs. If you have fuel there, then next thing might be to check there is fuel in the carbs themselves. That is slightly more involved. You can also try removing one of the spark plugs and seeing if it looks wet after trying to start the engine. This would show that fuel was making it's way into the engine.
  9. 2 points
    I finished couple casting jobs from winter now that it is again warm enough to work outside. Rear view mirror needed a lot of sanding to get the shape right as my mold was not made from a perfect example. For polishing I used one of those cheap headlight restoration kits that come with sanding pads and polishing compound. After that I used a finer paint polishing compound and liquid wax on a wool pad. Rubber bung that stabilises the mirror against windscreen is not original but not too far off. I even had a decent original mirror glass that I had forgotten about. That popped in without too much trouble. Another loose end was the interior light; I cleaned and tested a good base for my new lens. I had also somehow misplaced the mounting screws. In the parts book these were shown as part No. 52724-S13. This did not help too much but by googling the part number I found a 1955 Mercury book with a good description: Screw, pan head, cross recessed, No.6-18 x 1/2". Adding into that what I already knew (Phillips No.2, zinc plated) I raided my not insubstantial collection of loose screws and found a decent looking pair. Boxed, tagged and stored for now
  10. 2 points
  11. 1 point
    Hi, I have a cortina mk3 1974 1600 xl that I stripped to restore but lost interest years ago. Have the log book VIN plates etc. would make a good project or donor in my opinion or just sell the parts. its got a fully rebuilt 2.8 cologne engine that cost me £1200 to get done that starts and runs briefly plus the original 1.6 pinto for parts plus lots of repair panels, doors, boot, wings, seals, bonnet etc I don’t have time to sell anything individually so I’m looking to sell all in one go I couldn’t upload any pictures on here but if interested I’ll send over what I have my number is 07594 539276 thanks kane
  12. 1 point
    Bought £20, I'm going to rewire it too so once you add that & new plug into it. Plus on hold now as got a phone call Mon for a cancellation. For this morning got my carpol tunnel done in theatre 9.30 back home 11.30! So you can get better than a quick fit fitter.
  13. 1 point
    AHH my old eyes lol. Not to bad,was late getting back as the caravan lights decided to go haywire when we were ready to leave, suppose can't complain I've had it 10ish years & it is an early 80's one ( nothing made to last these days😁.). So I think I'll run a new cable & lights on it rather than mess about trying to sort them ( cheaper to buy a trailer board than buy the stuff separately).
  14. 1 point
    As said above, the lines are thin copper strands sandwiched between the two plastic sheets these can Develop hair line cracks that break the circuit, check by eye & a multi meter. Your printed circuit board does look in very good condition as they are usually separated after all this time. The can be repaired by soldering a piece of wire across the break ( not by me lol can't solder to save my life, can weld just about anything back together though lol). The sliver box is the voltage stabiliser mentioned earlier which usually gives the problem your having.
  15. 1 point
    Today i took the seats and carpet out, and i will be doing some welding also. Can anyone reccommend a good tan carpet dye? my carpet really needs dying. there is a few things that i will get done like the locks and minor cosmetic issues, and then i will probably unfortunately have to sell the car due to extortionate insurance costs.
  16. 1 point
    Hope you get a better quote for it.Best of luck with it.
  17. 1 point
    Because it's only to test the wire gauge isn't to important but not to thin, just strip it back and bend it over on itself if needed and push into the female bullet and twist it around the +coil terminal it should run like that if it's the ballast wire at fault. Have you checked you have power to the connection where the ballast wire joins into the loom at the bulkhead end?
  18. 1 point
    Same as the wire that has the female bullet connector that the ballast plugs into.
  19. 1 point
    I think it's dried up for all of them not just Cortinas. The cost of a sierra pinto these days is staggering compared to what I've paid for them in the past. Same with type 9's. Used to be about 50 quid for one of those, more like 250 now. I've got one here for a V6 which I'm hoarding "just in case"
  20. 1 point
    Oxfordshire. Yep, I was going to get some kind of spacer and use a standard bolt, if I can’t get hold of an original. But I thought I’d see if I can get one first.
  21. 1 point
    not a problem, i've been reckoning that myself. Waiting on my blow torch arriving, but in no hurry, it's only a spare engine in reserve. I think it will be much easier to remove the plugs oince it's on the bench. Gripping the plugs is now the problem as my various sockets don't fit the rounded plugs too well, but with the head off and heat applied directly to the threads, im hoping to make progress. I have an old Hilman Imp socket that is old fashioned steel and I'm hoping to adapt it to fit with a big hammer.
  22. 1 point
    Note, if you have got the ballast wire disconnected, then it won't be loaded by the coil, and it will float up to 12V. I'd be doing a voltage check at the coil terminal, with everything still connected.
  23. 1 point
    Ah right,so you are now left with the battle of pinpointing where the fault lies. Such a lovely car,a Coupe aswell
  24. 1 point
    I'm not sure on the figures would have to check. Think it should be 9V at the coil end of ballast with ignition on ( as it's powered via ignition switch when running)& 12V when cranking at coil as it uses a different circuit between starter motor & coil when cranking
  25. 1 point
    No pre face the engine mount is higher up and hardly any camber Mark 4 got lower and more camber by Mk5 the engine was sitting lower again and loads more camber is how I read it
  26. 1 point
    If it is the same coil that has been on since day one it left the factory,I would say it has become damaged due to wear and tear. But generally,parts do age and become worn. Thanks for the part numbers
  27. 1 point
    Your Lucas one is for points ignition to be used with a ballast resistor ( as from factory). The black one is for use with electronic ignition ( no ballast resistor ) all 2.3 mk5's ( not MK4) & 82 2.0 mk5's, & most 83 onwards fords especially Sierra's,cvh escort/Orion/fiestas ,V6 Capri/Granada, all MK3 Granada, MK2 fiestas,MK3 transit (late mk2 transit).
  28. 1 point
    Depending on brand there should be, they usually say 12v or 9v or ballasted.
  29. 1 point
    Strange as prefacelift the engine mount area is slightly different. I've a few shafts (oo matron) & new round couplings or you'll find one at cortina day this weekend.
  30. 1 point
    I'll take a look. The old one is off the car so I can look at that one for you now. The new one I can check later when I get to the car. Can't remember seeing parts numbers but will have a look
  31. 1 point
    Thank you! That's really helpful. Didn't get a chance to look today, bad weather. I'm pretty sure the resistor splits the same way on the mk3 too, with the yellow/black wires. Previous owner made a bit of a mess of the wiring so will have to have a good close look
  32. 1 point
    Here is how it is laid out on mine and I am on accuspark with a 12v coil. Trying to cast my memory back if I have detached the ballast wire under the tape near the bulk-head. In general,all are as follows.frrom the ignition switch it is yellow/black--->(after the bulk-head)Black---->grey ballast wire---->2xyellow/black. One of the yellow/black goes to the coil,and one goes to the starter Ballast wire.mp4
  33. 1 point
    Lol least it's fixed, As both gauges aren't working that sounds like their not getting power. You'll have to remove the dash clocks plug them back in & with the key in position 2 (as if it was running ignition light on) check there's 12V at the red wire in the plug where it goes into clocks, if there is follow the copper strip along the printed circuit ( these are prone to splitting especially now over 50 years old) the other end should lead to a square silver metal box held by a screw again check for 12V at the screw. If that's showing then that's good. Next check under the box you should see a metal prong at each end one is connected to the red/white wire (temp) the other to blue wire (fuel) in the plug you should get a reading I think 12V at each of these if you get nothing then the box ( voltage regulator) has stopped working you need a replacement. You MUST replace with same metal one from a MK3/4 cortina,MK2 Granada or MK2 escort other ford ones will make the gauges read wrong. Unfortunately the only way to tell is if the label is still on the replace as they all look the same ( but the electrickery inside is different). Some people will say change sender or gauge this is only the problem if one gauge stops working.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Mmm, I think you might be right. That sounds like the type of pump that slows down when the pressure builds, unlike the one I have fitted. I'd definitely pull a hose and try pumping fuel into a glass jar. You may have a blockage or collapsed hose between the tank and the pump.
  36. 1 point
    The ballast wire is the resistor. It's a thick grey cable in the loom. I believe there are bullet connectors at each end, but must admit, it's been years since I've looked at one.
  37. 1 point
    Have you confirmed that you have fuel up at the carbs? You say it tries to start with a bit of extra fuel thrown in, so sounds like you have spark.
  38. 1 point
    The ohv Pas will work fine with single belt. He's running a rover v8
  39. 1 point
    .......extensive welding on the rear floorpan corners and further in under the rear passenger seat,and the drivers side footwell to the inner wing. The new speedo cable unravelled. With a bit of welding and grinding easily repaired speedo cable repair.mp4
  40. 1 point
    Thanks Deno I was thinking about you the other day, do we have to write to car SOS so you can get your done
  41. 1 point
    I was in work related training at other end of the country for most of the week so not much work could be done. However in the background I have started refurbishing my steering shaft. Bearing surfaces at both ends of the worm gear were pitted, the right way to fix this would be to reground those but I had to settle for the next best thing. To start with I bought 7mm (R3.5) round inserts for hardened materials, closest match to the right radius I could find. Since the inserts were meant for an end mill there were no holders available. So I made my own. Just some whatever hot rolled mystery steel. Right and left handed. There is a pocket for the insert which is attached with a counter sunk M3 screw which is in turn secured with a small cantilevered bit of steel. Since my car is fitted with a steering lock I had to remove a reinforcement collar to release one of the bearing cups. Luckily the shaft fitted in the lathe. After this I started machining the bearing surfaces. Speed and feed had to be kept at VERY slow rate. Surface quality was surprisingly good. Machining the other end. All setups were done with a 4 jaw chuck which was a bit of a pain to clock in. There should be plenty of meat in the worm gear and I did not remove much so reducing the amount of shims should be enough. If not, I should be able to stack extra shims behind bearing cups. What might however be an issue is that since the worm gear has been welded to the shaft there might be some angular error between the seats. I will find out when I have new bearing balls to test with. Another issue could be reduced hardness of the seats but by the feel of it I did not go through the hardened layer.
  42. 1 point
    Sounds fantastic !!
  43. 1 point
    Got to Tatton park today and the club stand next to us was the mk2 oc and I saw a car and thought, wow John Robinson has travelled a long way for this show, but no it wasn't him, hope your well John.
  44. 1 point
    Think I've a blue MK3 (early MK4) one will check tomorrow.
  45. 1 point
    pinto. i'd have to remove the middle of the plug entireley to do that. N ot sure how I can do that without filling the engine with crap other than taking off the head, which I don't mind doing if i have to.
  46. 1 point
    But enough of the montegos problems, we're loving our cheap used motoring. She'd be more embarrassed on the bus.
  47. 1 point
    No there all the same, don't tighten any up until all are in. The tie bar will spring away from arm. Get a tapered rod/bolt/bar an old chisel ground to a blunt point is good. Align the tie bar ,ball joint, arm as best you can then hammer your pointed tool (ooh matron) into one of the large holes then use it to lever it inline so the other large bolt can be fitted in, tighten ( not fully) then remove bar & insert second bolt then tighten all for bolts.
  48. 1 point
    Here's one on my MK3 GTi estate
  49. 1 point
    They'll fit sierra MK3 Granada, MK3 transit. No idea seen all sorts of letters on them. Probably some internal code at engine plant.
  50. 1 point
    When I do it I use the frt solid disc (82-84 sierra 1.3/1.6 or MK3/4 escort solid frt disc are the same) both require the half shaft flange sanding down as they don't quite fit over. then cut the atlas caliper mount until it fits against the axle tube, bolt the bracket & caliper together Inc pads slide over the disc & align with axle tube then weld bracket to tube. Use a sierra disc brake handbrake cable ( the slotted bracket , drivers side under the rear seat requires opening up slightly for the cable to pass through) before final fitting remove the yoke from cable do the same to cortina one , open cortina yoke up fit to sierra cable & use an M6 nut & bolt to clamp the yoke back together . This will then fit in place of original cable. This set up will fit behind std 13 in wheels, the same as the Capri 2.8i frt vented discs ( you'll need to remove back plates as disc is thicker) with MK2 Granada vented disc calipers ( an approx 3mm spacer is needed between caliper & mount to centralise caliper & disc) you get 40% more brake pad surface with these. Use in conjunction with an 80's land rover 90/110 master cylinder ( bolts straight on requires the 13 mm union changing to a 10mm one) I'd recommend swapping the flexi's for stainless one ( surprising how firmer the pedal feels) you also need to make a small bracket to mount rear caliper hose's to axle. Use the 3 cortina ones with a pair of sierra rear caliper ones. The only welding is to fit caliper mounts to axle, everything else bolts in place. I've been using this set up for over 20 years on my 5.0 V8 MK3 & for 5 years on my 2.0 turbo MK3 touring car both of these stop from 100mph + with no problems ( on a private test track). Don't hesitate to contact me if you need further information. & I'll try to get some pics of under racer ( but it's a bit dark).
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