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Quality, cars back from the paint shop , thanks to Andy and Craig at Amington accident repair

I was out on a charity run today and on the way back stopped at the last vestige of Cork's Ford plant. This is the offices of Henry Ford and Son, seems to be in decline to my mind.

I have studied the parts list and other cars to find the correct parts and managed to get it all correct. Try to spot some in the pictures that you dont find normal and it is probably an early special.

They gotta look good around the Cortina!

Thanks lads, kenworth , amington accident repair, I kinda know them, not sure they'll do any more cars as they mainly do commercial, but worth a try

A couple of pics from the weekend, car going well but have a wee clonk in the drivetrain which I think is prop-shaft related. Will need to take a look.

They painted your nails as well!!!

Thanks mate it has turned out nice, definitely less contamination being painted in a body shop, rather than my garage. Fitted the vinyl roof and some bits this afternoon, only placed it on to let it settle, then the sun came out, so fitted it, my c pillar trims are short as the 2 door ones are longer but it'll be reet for now

£800 is an absolute bargain for a finish that good these days

Been a little while since an update. This Sunday just gone, I was at the Ford Show at Santa Pod, and put the Cortina on the strip again. This was the first time since a significant engine upgrade. I am now running a much bigger roller cam, roller rockers, all ARP hardware, different intake, and a high stall torque converter. Knocked almost a whole second off my best time, taking me to 12.99s at 104mph. It just kept pulling. Very happy with the performance. Only thing holding it back now is the tyres. That was still on treaded street tyres, meaning a very careful launch. I'd love to know quite how quick it would go if I could load up the converter on the line and launch it as hard as possible. There are a few videos from the day, though not of the first run, which was ironically the fastest. 1st run, 12.99s @ 104mph 2nd run, 13.4s @ 104mph 3rd run, 13.1s @ 104mph 4th run, 14.2s @ 99mph Note, I overheated a bit for the fourth run, and suffered from vapour lock, hence the slower run. Leaving the Cortina Fanatics stand to head to the RWYB pits - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VA3GOJ4-IYo Second run captured by MK1Keiran - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhzl5OSULiA&t=809s Third run captured by jpst - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMYQ8lo5G38&t=1381s Third run from dash cam - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMZh9Raqtmc Fourth run captured by jpst - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMYQ8lo5G38&t=1686s Fourth run from dash cam - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSTjhhshUho

Just had to bite the bullet and make one, I'm sure it will be fine with a good coat of primer, It get's me moving forward again

My cortina still going strong

Have had this car some 20 years, traced it down since it is so very early built in june 1962. Attended the mk1oc grand national in 2002 and received first price from Alan Manns hand. Back then the car looked good but was not as good as it looked. Color was refrigerator white and alot of the early special parts were missing. So I decided to make it all right and took the car apart well before the 50th anniversary in 2012. Some bad body repairs was sorted including sills that was aftermarket or home made flat ones, fitted way better panels though not genuine Ford ones. Left it with a guy for reapray and got chocked when I collected it. The refrigerator white was way better than the ermine beige. I got so dissapointed that I put it in storage and left it there for 10 years. This spring (mid may) 2022, I took it out and put it in the workshop. Sorted some repairs again that I didnt do correct last time. And since then I have learned to check the color before spraying, so this time it got the correct ermine white. Then assembly started to make it to the mk1 oc grand national. Parts were ordered but due to wrong information stated by mk1 oc parts department on parcel label it got stuck in customs. I spent hours trying to sort it but eventually the parcel went back to the sender and I couldnt finish the car in time for the national. Now the car is finished at last and I am very happy with it!

Sweating in this sweltering heat Half-shaft bearing out1.mp4 Half-shaft bearing in1.mp4

I'd sooner buy complete son, cheers mate, screen in locking trim arrive s tomorrow

Quarter chrome trim and side window fitted, I'd like some opening ones in the future, fitting the screen tomorrow

Fitting new headlamps , with a bit of upper lower panel , cutting , mainly due to me forgetting how they mount

My estate at Goodwood Revival in 2009

No problem pm your address & I'll bung one in post.

It's not over restoring if it's back to stock, I thought whilst re-bluing my rear ashtray retaining clips To be fair this was mainly to test on how the stuff works. Meant for things that go bang but should also work on cold bluing screws etc. Yet another batch of small bits painted; This time around some seat brackets and the correct type of heater box. Seat brackets I hung on to a frame from both ends, keeps them from flapping about whilst painting. My DIY heater resistor. I went with 3Ohms 50W resistor since I had couple in stock. Glad that I did since even this gets rather toasty in use. Hopefully should still fit, if memory serves me correct there should be enough room under the dash. If not I will make it fit And finally the heater box back in one piece. This was quite a puzzle to assemble, I think I got everything in the right place (except the wire from fan to resistor which should go on the right side terminal, got to remember to fix that). Though I could of have adapted my series 2 heater matrix to work on this box I had a fairly decent earlier thicker type, only had to clean insides of it with vinegar since it was chock full of calcium deposits (which is why one should mix the coolant only with distilled water). I replaced flap gaskets and matrix spacers with EPDM, that stuff should not turn into dust quite so fast as the original foam. For sealing the lid and duct passthroughs I used Sika 710 Butyl sealant. Stays flexible and allows dismantling.

Looking good

Looking fantastic

Thanks mate, yes I love a bit of cheesy 70s vinyl, I think MK3 s look good with or without, without does show the shape off better, but 70s cheese, love it

Pleasure to meet you Tony, glad I was of some help for you. Anything else you need drop me a line and will see what I can do. Colin.

Many, many thanks to Colr6, great knowledgeable person, with an excellent Mkl GT cosworth, with 100% a Capri Mklll front cross member underneath his car, that handles extremely well and is a credit to his engineering skills and experience. Plenty of pictures were taken and Colin even jacked his car up and removed a front wheel to share his fitment of the Mklll cross member. I will be sticking with what I have got, as its just a case of setting it all up. Once again, many thanks Colin, and to your wife, hopefully see you again in the future, regards, Tony.

Thought it would be rusted in I've used heat on casing to loosen its grip.

Cheers Deano, been a long road, another one saved though

This will work Two long bolts fully threaded, with a few or one thick washer on the inside. POP! and they come out

Fiat bravo used to be ok for partial repair , cut the inside of a door (it has to match for door to fit ,if that makes sense) for various cars over the years.

I know it's no help now, but a few weeks ago a NOS full rear 1/4 sold for £10.50 on eBay, wtf, I forgot to bid. Cardboard template, sand bag and a hide hammer and make your own. Near to me is Albert Looms scrapyard, they will let you cut sections out of a car.

Cut it out & try matching it to something in a scrappy ( if you can find one that will let you in).

I'm glad you made it work for you. For me it was about 2 inches too wide to fit the car. and the lower arm pick up points too far out . Your front track looks wider than mine, I wanted mine to look standard. See the pic for comparison. What do you think ?

I think the MK2 Cortina has a wider track than the MK1 Cortina , so the anti roll bar may not fit. What I do know is the internet forum clever dickies say a Capri crossmember works on a Mk1 Cortina. I know it doesn't, as I believed the internet clever dickies, and got a Capri one for my Mk1 Cortina ,and it was not going to work, about 2 inches too wide. They may work with a Mk2 Cortina with the wider track, but I don't have personal experience of that. I used an Alan Dent crossmember.

Still nothing meaningful to report on the bodywork side of things, every place is currently at a standstill due to vacation season.. Nevertheless will not stop me doing other stuff in the meantime. My latest finds; Roll of gasket paper, made in England so should work on the Cortina Restoration manual, charmingly outdated but still has some good nuggets of information. Actually had this on loan from the library years ago so knew to snap it right up when I saw it offered for a tenner . Super hard anti-roll bar poly bushes. Most likely I will not use these but were cheap enough to get just in case. And last but not least a set of new old stock Burton FP210 tappets. These are the earlier narrower type, I already have a set but those might be the later thicker type. Were at a car boot sale close by and cheaper than from Burtons so why not have a spare set. I restored a series 2 plastic heater box ages ago but since then I have found enough bits to fix up a proper tin box. But as is typical; Spot the difference? It's the tubes that sprout out from the sides (18K280/1). Those have flaps operated by cables coming from the dash. The box that I had painted does not have the provisions for flap assemblies, instead it connected directly to accordion tubes. Luckily I still had my original box, though I had to change the four mounting brackets on the corners from a donor box because there were some extra holes drilled in them. After that i sand blasted and primed it. I will let it cure for a week or two and paint it together with some other bits. Better that I caught this now rather than later. Before I moved the series 2 box to storage I measured the resistor on it (looks like a spring). For such a low resistance it is best to do a 4 wire measurement. And the survey says; Let's call it 2 Ohms. Blower motor operating current is 3.5A in free air and stall current is 8A from a supply of around 12.4V. I do not have an original resistor for series 1 box (they were prone to failure) but 3 Ohms rated at least 10W seems to be the ticket, though I would rather use a 20W or so resistor to err on the side of caution.

Just a little update for the forum All seems to be working well at the moment. 430mls to yat and back with new paint job Oh! and 28mpg Am going for an old n,a,s car look for this year

I think your best bet is to just use some hose and run it between the two metal stub pipes. The chance of finding an original useable pipe ar I would think are Slim to None.