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It’s been ages since I’ve had time to even think about my LS. I left Openreach after 35 years, got myself a physically demanding but stress free job, had a new knee and been looking after two ailing parents. Sadly we lost Dad in January this year. Anyhow today I took time out to fit a new battery and bring the old girl home for a wash and a quick tinkering. Need to order some new tyres, adjust front wheel bearings and go through the carb next time out. Good news is I still have the Cortina mojo 😀 Here’s a few of the old girl taken today because we all love a few Cortina snaps!

1795 3.0 XLE “Big Six” Import from South Africa

Back out from hibernation 😀 Took it for a wee spin as an excuse to take the dogs for a walk. Noticed the timing belt sticker on the slam panel was dated 6 years ago so will get a belt for it, only done 5,ooo miles but I’ll throw one on. It’s showing it’s age in places but will soldier on for now. Same old pictures I’m afraid…… 😉

Apologies for the mess and obstructions on the back seat. I always keep a cover on the rear seat and usually have the dog carrier on the seat for our little terrier. Must keep the cloth as safe as possible I always drive with covers on the front seats too.

Been to a local show today, probably about 20 miles each way (Weston Park, Shropshire). Went well which was good as I've not touched it since June last year.

more on my Facebook page

Decided to take a run up to my mates garage, took the photogenic route 👍🏻 Early o’clock so not much else on the road…. love it !

Fit stainless flexies all round .

Yes still got the Huntsman. I work for a couple that run a garden nursery business open to the public. I do the deliveries and much of the physical stuff behind the scenes.

Thanks Dean. I’m really pleased how paint etc has stood up. A good wax will quickly bring it back to where I want it.

Cheers

Pretty simple loosen the big locknut on the track rod first ( no more than 1/2 turn) then undo the nut holding the track rod end to the stub axle, either use a ball joint splitter, pickle fork or hit the side of the upright to shock the track rod end out. Spin the track rod end of the track rod. Undo the clips ,tie wraps or whatever is holding the gaiters on, slit/cut them off. To fit new ones squirt a bit of lube on the nut & case of steering rack. Slide gaiter on stretch over nut the secure in place. Screw new trod end on upto nut, put pin back into upright, fit/tighten nut, then lastly retigthen lock nut, repeat for opposite side. It's same as UK models.

It might have been messing the adjustment up.

The complicated thing about fixing distributors is that for checking their function one really needs a distributor tester... So I made this; Took entirely way, way too much time to make.. Made from junk I had squirreled away (as usual). Thing has a AC motor that is controlled by a variable frequency drive (VFD) which rotates a flywheel that has a LED attached and a mount for distributor pinion. On the top there is an adjustable degree wheel and a standard automotive RPM meter (divide by 2 for distributor RPM). Brushes for the LED. Copper from water pipe, brushes from a drill motor. Good practice for getting used to my lathe. Back is bit of a mess, ehh works so good enough. BNC connector for scope etc. if needed. LED has three main modes; Points open (surely has some use cases, mainly here because it was easy to implement) Points closed Dot mode for easier alignment Points closed mode is the inverse of points open, made with one transistor logic inverter. Dot mode was a bit trickier, I used a 4538 monostable multivibrator to pulse the LED when input goes high and resets after it goes low. By changing the motor RPM with VFD advance curves from the centrifugal weighs can be deduced. For vacuum advance I thought about using a syringe and a suitable vacuum gauge, does not need to be high tech. Max RPM is about 6k (engine) which is plenty enough. It is nigh impossible to take good pics when operating, just trust me that in person the LED is sharp and easy to read. DOT mode. Points open. In addition to advance it is easy to spot points bounce or dirty contacts and cam wear. Dwell angle can be calculated from RPM and degrees but for that I have a Fluke 78 automotive multimeter that has the dwell angle measurement built in. Resistance is also easy to check with a suitable meter. With this tester I can test my distributor as much and more than needed Certainly better than just hoping that it works.

Love it !!

What a great looking Mk4 If you change the auto fluid and filters for new that should sort the snatching problem. Pete

They've had that ages probably want mega bucks for it/stuff off it. Probably the usual dodgy Weber carb fuel pipe to carb.

I'm sure the OP has..just putting it out there that the new gearbox mounts are .s.hite in the hope it might save someone the hassle I've had .I was only aware of issues with the engine mounts being too firm and causing vibration I bought mine from B'tons so there must be a few Fords out there with vibrations as they are as hard as bell metal. The Cortina mount is marginal anyway as Ford made the Sierra mount bigger and softer to reduce NVH...so why the aftermarket made the mounts harder is beyond me unless it's for the Caterham crowd who don't mind having their fillings shaken out

Hello Onslow Thank you, but have adapted my Peugeot seat now thanks

Hoping for more than 10 days on the road this time

new pipe is in and bled, just back from a satisfactory road test, in fact the pedal feels a whole lot better now, much as id expect it to be. Could it be the back pipe was more or less blocked for ages, causing that hard pedal? ive a feeling that must have been the case, Quite happy now except for the handbrake, which despite many turns on the adjuster, wont quite hold the car on my (very steep) drive.

Dingle isn't near anywhere except perhaps New York. :-) Killarney is kind of mid Kerry and Dingle is North West. Probably 60 miles away. Kerry is a big County, not as big as Cork but pretty massive. Both great places to visit

Headlight check of an evening!

Driven off into the sunset perhaps ?!

I think you're describing the wire which bypasses the ballast wire, the one between the starter and coil. It gives the coil battery voltage during cranking. The ballast wire is what feeds the coil under normal operation.

Went to check/adjust ignition timing in my Mk5 1600 OHC fitted with a black cap Ford Distributor.... removed small bolt/clamp to discover that the distributor was seized solid ! Afraid to use excessive force as there is a danger that it could could the alloy body could break or crack.... leaving a stuck-fast piece in the location opening/hole above the oil pump ..... which would prob mean sump off job to fix from below.... Any ideas on a possible remedy from any BSC member who has encountered this issue before? Copious applications on a regular basis of WD40 ??

This is a common problem, the alloy seizing in place. As a move heat & cool cycles is best bet. Stilsons as close to block as possible & work back & forth, usually once you brake it's hold they come out without a problem. Penetrating oil of your choice won't hurt. At worst drill a hole close to block as you can in dissy body to relieve tension & get oil down between them.

Diagnosing an intermittent fault can be a nightmare, especially when as shown in the video you never know if it will happen. Proper diagnosis is difficult if it doesn't do the fault when you check it. Before changing any parts I'd suggest trying various safe bypassing tests to see if the fault disappears e.g.as Craig suggested. However you can still not be 100% sure you have found the real fault. I'd start by one at a time removing starter circuit wires/cables and clean the connections and make sure they are suitably tight (not overtightening) If you do more than one at a time and it solves the problem you don't know which was at fault. This is a cranking fault, not a starting fault. It will be hard for you to sort this as you admit you are a layman mechanically, not your fault, but to put it in the hands of someone else may take ages and cost lots of £'s. Sorry not a lot of help, suggesting tactics more than diagnosing. Very difficult to diagnose without being hands on with the car. Not being negative but you may have more chance sorting it if it totally fails so fault can be diagnosed. Good luck.

P.s. I got the cord from a tackle and boat supplies shop, but hardware stores sell it, and I even got some in poundland once

What's up with your type 9 that makes you want to change back?

Do you here the starter click? It could be worn ignition switch. Use a piece of wire touch the red & black wires together if it then turns over it's the ignition switch ( circular box) that's worn inside. The switch's are the same across the range but plug varies so you must make sure you match it. If it still won't start it could be the inhibitor relay this is fastened to the lower dash or drivers inner wing, to check this again with a piece of wire join the black/yellow wires if it then starts the relay is faulty , replace ( all 70's ford autos use the same one) The inhibitor switch on g box could be worn try moving selector to neutral & try starting if this works you'll need a replacement ( prefacelift use the Borg Warner type 35 box ) try a BL specialist as they also used this one, or just start in neutral instead of park. If this doesn't work check the wires/terminals for physical damage

I don't believe in Experts...How Qualified was the man who invented Qualifications? I would like to see everyone try everything without fear of failure...A problem is only a problem if you let it become one..You can shout and despair at something not going right but, it will still be a piece of deaf metal when you are done with shouting at it. Try again...

Breaking at Gadbury breakers