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Big project! Top job bringing it back.

The problem is some take getting there car back to original as a passion, I have seen stuff over the years that I still find unbelievable. One of the worst was a guy with a classic car that had a vacuum controlled heating system., the original heater valve had not been available for a long time and everyone was using one from an American car that worked perfectly and was less than £50. He found one NOS original on Ebay and eventually paid just under £1500 for it. Another wanted his car repainted in the original cellulose paint, he eventually found a paint shop that would do it but would not guarantee the result would last. In less than 6 months the lacquer was peeling. When people go to this level I ask them if they go back to where the car was made to pump up the tyres to get the 100% correct air in them. The saying Fool and there money is soon parted comes to mind.

There was a NOS one on Ebay a week or so ago, it went for over £60.

stick in a vice and bend it, that's what i used to do

Yes any wire should be fine. Far as I know it's in the ford factory workshop manual. As long as the key is in you should be ok,

Ok that could be worn tumblers inside the lock which would need a rebuild or a replacement lock. Your to far away but this is something I do regularly. To remove the barrel from the housing the lock/with key in needs to be in either position 1 or 2 ( it varies) then you need to press the spring in ( in a slot about halfway down housing) you will then be able to pull the lock barrel out. I doubt you'll find a rebuild kit nowadays, so you'll have to fit a new or used barrel with key. All TC 1- 3 ( Facelift 74 onwards) use the same one , as do mk1-2 Granada ( for some reason MK2 escort is a mirror image so won't engage properly) . The job is fiddly rather than complex. Any problems pm me & I'll try to explain.

The petrol will have evaporated by now, the problem will be the broken wire. The lock is supposed to go in a few mm when the key is in, it sounds like the key is worn ( they are brass) after 40 years of use, you need to get a new one cut.

I'm more interested in longevity & practicality than originality.

The mirror stalk is mazak alloy so can't be welded ( it was supposed to snap off in an accident ) all 70's fords used the same one, 80s went to the stick on ones. Also never try to remove mirror from stalk by popping it off the ball as you'll never get it back on without breaking it. TC 1-2 use same one & 79 TC 3 do but 80 onwards have the stick on one.

Those worked, answers would be as above, the escort,Capri, Granada, MK3 cortina all use the same mirror/mounting so would fit. The rubber could be super glued. Just remembered the door rubbers from the MK3/4( fwd escorts) are the same.

Imgur has been banned in the UK because of the 2023 date protection act. Imgur don't want to be fined by Skweer Stammers' gang of cash grab cronies, so it just blocked all UK internet traffic. All it needs is an age verification before you can access it but no, they won't do that either! I was using a free VPN to copy and save all of my pictures yesterday. The problem is, there's over 2000 pics and I still have about 3 pages left to save, around 180 pics and today, I can't get the free VPN to work anymore! I am a little annoyed and 'EonVPN' support are fairly useless! Images that have already been posted will show up outside of the UK but anybody in the UK will just get the purple page! Bummer!

Kunifer for hard lines and braided PTFE for flexible every time. Well worth spending some cash on some tools to get smooth bends and a proper flaring tool, if its £40 you will struggle to get good joints. It needs to be the type that is clamped in a vice so you can get a good amount of pressure as you flare. A properly flared brake pipe should only need nipping up to seal. Bending pipes with your fingers is fine as a one off but if you are replacing all or a lot of pipes neat pipes look so much better. Finally I suggest stainless brake pipe unions. More expensive but will last for ever.

The headlining won't really move it's very small opening, the pics won't show but should be one of the clip I've just taken.ive got mirrors but I'm not sure what you mean re damage without a picture same with weather strip.im useless with computers so can't suggest how to get them to work. Make a simple tester with a bulb & bulb holder & couple of pieces of wire the dash lights are very simple just power ( grey/yellow) with switch on then touch one wire to it in various places & other wire to metal or brown earth wire. If bulb lights power is getting that far if not there's a break/problem before there.

1. To remove mirror stalk prise the U shaped trim piece out ( it has lugs at each side), loosen the retaining bolt & wiggle the stalk out. 2. The dash lights could be one of several things Do the external lights work ? The dash lights go through the rheostat ( grey/yellow wire) check for power at switch, rheostat,dash plug,damage to printed circuit. Check the brown earth wire at dash plug. The rheostat knob should pull off (may need prising off if tight) joints the wires to bypass this. 3. The blower switch is probably springing back because there is debris in the heater box between the heater core/radiator & the flap inside ( remove heater core & clean out.

The cheapish quick shift kits normally has them be easy enough to make it so it's normal throw

Might heating and bending/straightening be an option ?

just to round it off...the new pipe from Motomobil fitted striaght on and is a much better job than the one that was on it, presumably a 1.6 pipe.... heavier gauge metal too.

Credit to you, this is a big project. Lots of good work undertaken. Best of luck with it.

I remember getting a broadcast copy on VHS of this from the BBC in the 90's ( still in my collection).

Starting to resemble a car again. I hope to finish welding underneath this weekend then I can paint under there, and drop it back down.

F***ing EVERYTHING waa rusty on this car, but the end of the welding is in sight

Widened arch...

Hi All We can confirm our seasonal opening hours will be as follows: Up until the 19thDecember: Normal hours. Saturday 20th December: Closed Sunday 21st December: Closed Monday 22nd December: 9.00am – 3.00pm Tuesday 23rd December: 9.00am – 3.00pm Christmas Eve: 9.00am – 3.00pm Christmas Day: Closed Boxing Day: Closed Saturday 27th December: Closed Sunday 28th December: Closed Monday 29th December: 9.00am – 3.00pm Tuesday 30th December: 9.00am – 3.00pm New Years Eve: 9.00am – 3.00pm New Years Day: Closed Friday 2nd January: 9.00am – 3.00pm Saturday 3rd January: Normal Hours Resume. Regards, Dan.

No they all used same one, Mk5 is a bit bigger diameter but has a dent in inner wing for clearance. Sierra is completely different, Granada can be made to fit ,but only difference is you won't have to press pedal as hard. The African 3.0 cortinas use the std setup ( there heavier too) & manage fine. I've been running my MK3 for last 20 years with the following set up with no problems 5.0 V8 ,T5 5 speed gearbox ( this pair weigh 100+kg more) . Land rover 90/110 ( 83-90) master cylinder on original servo, MK3 Capri 2.8i/ MK2 escort RS vented discs, ( dust shields need removing). MK2 Granada 2.8 brake calipers ( the 40% bigger) need slight spacing to fit. All bolts straight on rear is sierra rear calipers (with disc brake cable ,needs Cortina you swapping over) weld on mounting brackets, fwd escort (81-90) front solid discs ( half shaft flanges need a couple of mm removing for them to fit over) , stainless flexible hoses. Again all bolts on except mounts need welding to axle tubes. All fit behind std 13 in wheels. I use the same setup on my 2.0 turbo MK3 track day car. Hopefully pics enclosed.

Sold anglia boot needed wielding and steering needed doing put new box in still knackered fell out off love with it.so next classic had be a ford and rack and pion steering ended buying this drives like new and never been wieled or messed with.all original