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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/09/2024 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Finally on the move Showtime soon 😎 VID-20240630-WA0000.mp4
  2. 1 point
    Back to the steering box. I needed new bearing races so bought the overhaul kit from the chap that sells them in Ebay, on the pricey side but the quality was top notch. Bearing races are made to order and not available from anywhere else to my knowledge. Assembly was mostly done as described in the workshop manual. Since mine has a steering lock I first had to weld the reinforcement back in it's place AFTER sliding in the upper bearing race. Eh, not my best work but will do. I wanted to keep the current as low as possible. Piece of angle iron with hose clamp keeps the bearing balls from escaping during assembly. Decent vise is a must for this job. Did not lose a single ball! Though I did practice beforehand..At this point it is important to keep the shaft pressed down when installing and removing the steering column tube or there will be a right mess. Also remember to mount the column in the right orientation. I needed a thicker spacer over the upper bearing since I had to machine quite bit of material off both bearing races on the shaft. Luckily I had "couple" hard disk drive spacers on hand, very accurately machined. Made of aluminium instead of steel but so is the column flange so should be fine. New spacer. Little over 0,5mm thicker if memory serves. Shimming was a real pain. I tried the official method but the result was always too tight (bolts were correctly torqued); In the end I shimmed by feel, decent preload, no slop and moves smoothly. Also note the felt upper bearing, I had a new one but that was way too tight. Since the original felt was in good order I re-used it. There is a small washer under the felt that acts as a stop. No idea why Ford went back to felt for (most of) series 1 cars, probably cost related.. Also series 1 shaft is of different length and has a finer thread compared to series 2. Setting the rocker shaft drag. Series 2 wheel since the original is being worked on. Measured in the center position as that is the tightest. Back together and epoxy primed. Bare aluminium would of looked nifty but black is how these were. Top coat will be done after a fortnight or so. Not a hard job to do but certainly a fiddly one. Takes lots of time and must be done as cleanly as possible. I did consider putting this back together in a kiddie pool or something but in the actual assembly all the gubbins did stay where they were supposed to.
  3. 1 point
    Cross member finished. Cross member making kit !!!!
  4. 1 point
    Problem solved, turned out i was using the wrong key
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    I've not done a lot lately,a few little bits,but i keep putting this job off,well,I decided to get on with it. I know I could buy a new cross member,but it is far too much fun to make one. I used good old cereal boxes for the template & I have used the side panel of a Transit,which was given to me by our bodyshop. This is it so far.
  7. 1 point
    I've been parts hunting again. These 8" shoes are getting hard to find reasonable priced; QH brake shoes sold on Ebay for MK2's do not seem to be the correct type if going by the picture. Shape is all wrong and position of the lining does not match these. Might still work but I will not be the one to try.. These set me back 48€ +postage. I already had an NOS Quinton Hazell QRS1266 idler arm; But this one popped up for sale at an fair price of 30€ +postage and it had the rubber dust boot that was missing on mine. These are the dimensions for the dust boot if any one needs them; Some universal ball joint boot rubber might be made to fit in a pinch.
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