eddiebee

Burton Power do upgraded rockers in steel, depends what spec you want and what you are prepared to pay. Ed

Have a look at the post by messer started in Oct 2010 regarding Mk1 gt colour.

Forgot these two pics. cheers Ed

Been a bit lazy since Xmas but here is an update on work completed since last Post. Work has focussed on front and rear offside wings. See pictures. Cutting out old rust Trimming new panel to fit Tacking new piece in position. Smug look on messers face The plan initially was to simply re-position the mis-aligned front wing but there was quite a bit of repair work to attend to first Job done. Will keep updates going. All the best Ed and messer

Actually tou have helped, you have put a smile back on my face. Can't believe I missed that one!!

Can anyone help? I am trying to re-assemble the steering shaft upper bearing with new 7/32inch ball bearings but there does not seem to be enough room to get the balls into the bearing and around the shaft. I am following the Haynes manual p186 fig 11.18 and am tearing my hair out, there appears to be no room for the balls around the shaft. I have measured the balls and they are definitely 7/32. Any ideas please? regards Ed

What colours were used for the 1500GT engine, was rocker box same colour as engine? Was the gearbox painted or left as cast?

The crown wheel and pinion are usually matched so you may possibly have an incompatible pairing. If the noise in on the over run the pinion teeth are running on the backside of the crownwheel so look for damage on the non drive sides of the pinion and crownwheel. As stated earlier it is important that the relationship (positionally) between the crownwheel and pinion is correctly adjusted, also the the correct amount of preload is applied to the pinion brgs. If you want to fiddle you can check the tooth contacts under load by applying a thin coat of engineers blue or yellow ochre to the teeth to confirm the teeth are contacting in the middle areas.

We have just received the repair panel (C39) for the rear wing. Messer has been tied up with earning a living and preparing for his wedding, I have been distracted by tuning my 1946 Velocette whilst waiting for the repair panel, so not much progress made I'm afraid since last report. I retire at Xmas so hopefully we will soon be making progress again and will be posting more pictures. Santa is bringing me a set of thermals to entice me back into the garage, I don't do "cold" Ed

Cheers Monks Ed

Thanks Chelseablue. Too late now jobs done with Nitromors, but will definately use If I ever round to restoring my Velocette Venom. Cheers Ed

Sigh of relief, didn't want to undo the work I have put in already. Just to add, if I see any spots of surface rust I grind it off and then apply a spray coat of Hammerite Rustbeater before applying the primer, I have been caught out in the past with Kurust (personally not to keen on this). Thanks to all for replies; crackin forum this is. Will keep updating resto thread. cheers Ed and messer

I am getting conflicting advice regarding whether etch primer is necessary as a base coat on clean bare metal. My local body shop (and supplier to the trade) advise me that etch primer is intended for use primarily on aluminium and fibreglass and is unecessary on clean bare metal. They advise that high build primer as a first coat is perfectly OK. Which way should I go? Based on their advice I have already sprayed two panels without etch primer, I need to get this right before I go any further. Thanks Ed

I thought I would add a bit of an update.. Following on from the conversations about the wing and finding out how much genuine wings for these things are worth, I felt it was worth trying to save ours considering how solid they are.. So, spent an hour or so having a panel beating course on YouTube and headed off to Machine Mart armed with a modest shopping list and have actually ended up with a nice straight panel that is definately up to standard.. First off I sprayed a revealing coat of primer on to the wing and block sanded it back to find the low spots: Then, I removed the previous method of wing attachment which was a few rivets and a bit of weld, so I could get better access but also so that itt could be realigned properly: Next, I donned my newly acquired Youtube panel beating skills (and not to mention Machine Marts finest tools) and set to work: I used masking tape to make a clean line for the wing flutes and started to work with the uPol filler: So, its still not finished but happy with the progress so far! I will add some more pics when its finished :-)

I'm pretty muched convinced now that red is the way to go. TinaInTheForest makes a powerful arguement with a superb period picture. Hope I can talk messer round.