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canadian_Mk3

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canadian_Mk3 last won the day on April 30 2018

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About canadian_Mk3

  • Rank
    BSCortina Addict
  • Birthday 10/28/1995

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  • Current Car
    2.0L Mk3

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    English Cars, American Cars, Motorcycles, Isuzu 4x4s, Fried foods....

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  1. Hi there, I would like to one day put a rear anti roll bar in my Mk3. Nothing crazy but it still has a little too much body roll for my liking, even with poly bushings in the rear. Obviously I don't have the same UK donor cars available to me here in Canada, so I was just hoping to see some pictures of other people's setups, and maybe some rough measurements. Thanks in advance!
  2. Havent seen the manual yet but I havent been to the mailbox today either. Its possible, but I seem to remember it working normally before, and with my reading of 59 ohms at about 1/4 tank of fuel (3/4 on the gauge) suggests that it isnt upside down? But that could be my next thing to check...
  3. Mk3 pre facelift, L spec. At one time I had re-wired the car for a GT spec cluster, but I couldnt source the console for the center gauges, and recently swapped back to the L spec cluster. Everything works as it should, except the fuel gauge. It seems to work backwards. Its my understanding the sender reads 73 ohms empty, and 10 ohms full? It didnt have much fuel in it, gauge was reading 3/4 full, when I measured the resistance from the blue/black wire to ground, It read 59 ohms. Just today I put another 12 liters in it, and the gauge went down to read 1/2 full. I have the blue/black wire from the level sending unit, if I follow the PCB on the back of the cluster, goes straight to the back of the fuel gauge, the other side of the fuel gauge comes from the voltage stabilizer box. Ive swapped it with another voltage stabilizer box with no difference. Ive also cleaned all the connections with no difference. Where can I look next? Cheers!
  4. Well, I'll give taking it out one more go this weekend. Beyond that, I'll shim it and try to think of some design for an external lockout of some sort. Cheers!
  5. Well I tried for nearly an hour and the shifter won't come undone! Tried tapping on the tabs and large pliers on the plastic (carefully) and it won't budge. Any tricks? Maybe I would just be better off shimming the rubber cone somehow, to give it more upward preload, and then just being careful? I find if I hold upward tension on the shifter I can atleast feel the stop
  6. Ok, the E clip is in place and the rubber cone is doing its job. Feels like maybe whatever it stops against is rounded off. I can push the shifter down and t returns up, but I can still move the shifter over to reverse without pushing down How does the shifter come out of the trans? I'm guessing that's my next step.
  7. Mk3 PFL, 2.0 4 speed, I believe the type E box. It is much too easy to grab reverse instead of first. Is there supposed to be a reverse lockout, and if not, can one be added? Cheers!
  8. Thanks, My rear screen heater ribbons have fallen off a long time ago, so I will use that one
  9. Hello all, 1972 Mk3 Pre facelift. Went to turn on the headlights for testing and snapped the arm off the switch. Does anyone have any tips or tricks to repairing that or am I basically left looking for a new switch? Cheers, David
  10. Thanks for that! I forgot to mention mine is a pre facelift. I didnt see that first link you gave while i was scouring ebay the other night. Seller only posts to the UK, so I will have to try and get in touch with some distant relatives. My original RH was dmaged when the car came to my posession, I ordered and tinted a euro spec lens to replace it. This afternoon, I ended up ordering pair of NOS aftermarket lenses to the tune of 100 pounds, but still wouldnt mind another, rougher LH lens as a spare, since they will only get harder to get over here in Canada. Cheers, David
  11. Hello all, after an incident my dad had in the snowy driveway, I need a left hand tail light lens for my Mk3. As long as it is in one piece, rough condition is ok, as I will be tinting the whole lens red to match the Canadian Spec lens. Cheers, David
  12. Hi all, Putting a zetec in my Mk3. Want to modify a 1.8 CVH sump but I can't find any on eBay, and North America never got that engine (with a steel rwd sump anyways) Thanks in advance for any help!
  13. Sorry, I dont stop by here as much as I should. Im in British Columbia, about an hour east of Vancouver. I have since decided to use my Zetec. Everything except the very top 2 bolts on the bellhousing line up to the zetec. The zetec has a hole for a wire harness retainer clip, that lines up with one of the top bolts on the 2.3 bellhousing. I dont remember if its threaded, but if I really wanted I could tap it and use it. It looks as though the 2.3 mustang starter will turn the focus flywheel, but I have to clearance the oil pan a little to fit the starter in the lower position. Im going with a turbo 2.3 thunderbird clutch disc, as its closer in diameter than the non turbo 2.3 mustang disc. Locost builders in North America have used the Zetec/T5 combo before, with the 2.3 mustang transmission and the 8.5" disc, in the 9+7/16th" focus pressure plate. The turbo Tbird disc is 9+1/4". It can be done, its just mixing and matching lots of parts...
  14. Thanks all! I will use the mustang box then! I'm not put off at all by what you said, behind a ~100hp 4 cylinder it will be fine. A T5 is also very easy to rebuild, I did a couple in school during my apprenticeship (the university had 2 crates full of T5s for teaching purposes) I am still looking for the mustang 2.3 bellhousing as it's close enough to the pinto to use, but no luck yet. Breakers yards are picked clean of T5s, and found some bellhousings on eBay, but for nearly $325 once it's at my door, I might as well get the T5 to pinto bellhousing from RWD Motorsport... I've been tossing the idea of making a bellhousing to transmission adapter plate, but to really see if it's possible I'd need the 4 speed out of the car, and it's far too cold to do that right now Cheers!
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