greenanglia

hi its your rotor arm i had same on my mk1 cheers :smashcomp:

hi looking for dyanmo in watford herts area for my 1200 cortina for my brother 07597110803 thanks

hi all could someone tell me what the small hole at bottom of inlet manfold is for and do i seal it. its on a 28/36 thanks nigel. ps not very good on computors. t

hi.ive one of my 5*j wheels that will not hold air can i put a tube in a tubeless tyre. thanks

hello is my mk4 23.gl cortina reg VDW380S STILL OUT THERE CRACKING MOTOR.

hi my old battery charger as stopped working so I thought I would by a new charger with boost. any tips on what one to buy. thanks nigel

:microwave: img] :microwave: hi i just need to know is a 1982 cortina road tax free thanks.

hi what part country are u. i only have three wheels on my wagon.and i would like four and are u going to enfield end month, as would collect from you there if possable thanks nigel.

hi i will use halfords classic oil. thanks

I used halfords before, seemed fine, I have a tin of castrol at the moment to put in my other engine though. Will have a look at what its called for you. Any reason you don't go fully synthetic? i wouldn t use it, as fully synthetic have too much detergent additives and might damage the seals as well (or loose oil at least). i use 15W40 AGIP mineral for years without problems, though i have now got a source of some cheap 20W50 Q8. I'm using synthetic in my 1978 pinto and yes it's clean but that has to be a good thing. I can't see any good reason to stay with an old type of oil thank you i will stick to 20/50 mineral oil nigel.

If it's a standard mk1 Cortina 1200/1500 engine and you don't rev the balls of it at the lights, Halfords Classic 20W50 should be fine. If you are using the car in the winter though, you're better off using a slightly thinner oil in the cold, like a 15W40. As long as you are using the correct SAE weight oil (generally a 40 or 50 weight oil in a 60s/early 70s engine, i.e. 15W40 or 20W50), there shouldn't be any major problems, whether it's mineral or synthetic. Old engines have wider tolerances in bearings etc, so generally need a "thicker" oil (higher SAE weight oil) than modern engines. See http://www.burtonpower.com/tuning-guides/tuning-guide-pages/oil-technical-talk.html Having said that, Hans is correct in saying modern synthetics have a lot of cleaning additives in them. Not necessarily a bad thing, but in an old engine (especially in one that hasn't been apart for a very long time), particles may have been built up/deposited inside the engine. If you then decide to go with a syntetic instead, those particles may be flushed out, and may be positioned so they can block the oil flow as a result, not what you'd want... Also, when those particles are washed away, you might get oil leaks instead (sometimes those particles deposited inside the engine is helping to keep it oil tight). Another thing, modern full synthetics have to be compliant with cats, so they have a lot less high pressure additives (ZDDP) in them, like zinc and phosphate. Those ZDDP additives are vital in an OHV engine, to lubricate the cam followers properly. So, if you can find a synthetic oil which still has enough ZDDP in it for use in an OHV engine, you should be OK. Like Valvoline VR1 20W50 (mineral or synthetic), see http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/vr1_racing.pdf (very good oil, but not exactly cheap...).

hi. whats the best engine oil for 1500 pre cross flow engine. is halford classic oil ok or gtx part synthetic. not sure what to use.

The brake fitting kit as in the pads kit? not sure quite what you mean, but if its the pads fitting kit then you need to put the grease on the back of the brake pads? thanks i should have known that. first time ive fitted pads.thanks.

hi just changed my mk1 front brake shoes to discs.and i want to know what the brake fitting kits function is and where do you put the small amount of grease thats in the kit. thanks.