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mpp

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Everything posted by mpp

  1. mpp

    Lower trailing arm Mk3/4/5

    Thanks everyone. I now have an early Mk3 open-top-seat arm, same as my existing ones, from SheffieldCortinaCentre.
  2. mpp

    Lower trailing arm Mk3/4/5

    Thanks both. PM me prices, please? If it's early Mk3 with the small bush at the front then a single arm will do because I can just replace the one dodgy one I've got. Don't want to hog spares unnecessarily coz I know they're getting rarer now. Postage would be to SA67. Cheers, Ian.
  3. Any got a rear axle lower trailing arm, please? Preferably from an early Mk3 (small-bush type) but a pair of late Mk3 or Mk4/5 ones would also do the job. Cheers, Ian.
  4. The event is pretty informal. They do issue registrations by post but any car that turns up will get in even if not registered. Starts at 8am at the Haverfordwest Showground. Entrance is where this arrow points... http://www.streetmap.co.uk/map.srf?x=196110&y=218525&z=120&sv=196110,218525&st=4&ar=y&mapp=map.srf&searchp=ids.srf&dn=613&ax=196110&ay=218525&lm=0 The start is early. Arrive by 8am if you want chance to look round the cars before the cars leave at about 9am. With around 400 cars it'll take a while to find the Cortina's.
  5. Well, I'm glad to hear that I was wrong, and there were some more Cortinas there. And I'll try to remember to post a reminder about the event, next summer.
  6. I took my kit-car on the Pembrokeshire County Car Run this month. Any car can enter but most of the 600 entries for the 100-mile run are 'interesting'... classics, kits, specials. Oh, and Allegros. Six hundred cars there, filling up the airfield's old runway, ready for the start. Wandering around them I counted: - Mk4/5: None - Mk 3: None - Mk 2: 1 - Mk 1: None Can there really be so few Cortinas in South Wales? Outnumbered by Allegros by 5-to-1. And by Marinas 3-to-1. Shocking! In 2012 the rally is on 2nd Sept. It's free to enter. There's an organised food-stop half-way round, though most people just picnic at one of the many impressive coastal viewpoints on the route. For an entry form, email your snail-mail address to pembscountyrun@aol.com . So why not come to Pembs for a long weekend at the end of the school hols, and do the run too? Cheers, Ian.
  7. mpp

    Soggy Brakes

    Sorry everyone. I'm an idiot. Got my new Landy master and went to fit it. And spotted that the shiny new front brake pipe goes to the... (I bet you're already ahead of me by now) ...rearmost port on the master. And the rear copper pipe goes to one of the front ports. (The other front port is blanked by a bleed screw.) Swapped the pipes around and bled it, and things are better already. Pedal is still a bit soft compared to - say - my T4 Transporter but I guess that's probably normal for a '71 car. I may take it down to the MOT man and get him to retest the brakes, just to be sure. Dunno now whether to use the Landy master or not. You might be interested to hear that ebayer popy760 already offered to swap the master, no hassle. But I told them to hold off until I had tried a different master first. So +++ve feedback to them for great customer service. Many thanks to everyone for all the replies. And I'm sorry I wasted your time. Cheers, Ian.
  8. To make it worse, a lot of kit-cars are still registered as the original donor car. And Cortinas were used as the donor for a lot of kits.
  9. mpp

    Soggy Brakes

    Phew... a lot of suggestions there with much focus on the master cylinder. Thanks again everyone. Self-adjusters: After reassembling the drums, the adjusters definitely clicked on the handbrake (but never the footbrake). They ceased to click after a couple of dozen pulls. So they're not slipping. But why not working on the footbrake? Getting the drums off to recheck them again was hard work, which means the shoes did expand properly to inside the wear lip. So the adjusters are probably doing their stuff OK. Master: Is brand new new, not NOS. It replaced a leaky one but I can't remember how firm/soggy the pedal was with the old one. Sometimes the pedal went to the floor with the old one as fluid just went right past the seals and onto the road. And sometimes the brakes worked properly. (Which made for an exciting trip back from the MoT test.) The new master is a non-genuine part from ebay. Guess it could be a dud but the seller (popy760) is a vehicle parts specialist and has 37,000 feedback at 99.9% positive so it's improbable. I'll message to ask if they've ever had problems with these.
  10. mpp

    Soggy Brakes

    Thanks again to recent repliers. Rear cylinders were replaced by a local garage. The old boy there has since retired, but he was on the ball at the time he did the work. And he would have worked on Cortinas in his prime, unlike the kids who have taken over from him. So I'll put "wrong bore size" at the bottom of the list for now. I took apart the self-adjusters and ran the ratchet-nut up and down the thread until it was properly free. Then reassembled. I could hear them working for the first few dozen pulls of the handbrake as they took up the slack. BUT they didn't do anything when I worked the footbrake. Not a single click from them. Are they supposed to? Haynes does say to work the footbrake to ratchet the adjusters... but they only seem to work on the handbrake. Is this the issue, maybe? I don't really know how to tell if they're working.
  11. mpp

    Soggy Brakes

    Thanks both. I doubt it's the hoses. I changed from NOS rubber hoses to brand new Goodrich, and that made no change at all. Clamping each hose seems a good idea. Can I clamp braided Goodrich hoses without damaging them, though?
  12. Mk3 Cortina-based kit-car, just finished a nut-and-bolt rebuild. (I know, I know, I'm sorry too that it used to be a Cortina. But back in 1975 no-one was collecting write-offs for rebuilding, so it ended up as a Spartan.) Almost all original specification brake fittings: Professionally recon front calipers. Girling Type 16. New rear cylinders. New Mk4/5 master on a Bendix servo. New disks newly mounted on clean hubs with no measurable run-out. New(ish) "Greenstuff" pads. New rear shoes. Original, scored, but un-cracked rear drums. Goodrich hoses. Bled. Lots. I mean really bled. Over 2 litres of glycol have been through that system using an Eezi-Bleed. I've tilted the car up to get the rears to bleed properly, too. If there's air in it, I don't know where it's hiding. And no leaks, either. And checked the ratchet adjusters on the shoes. They're free and I heard them working after resetting them. So why is the pedal so soggy? Properly soggy. Like the pedal goes to the floor with moderate brake pressure and only just locks the wheels on a dry road. Yes, it passed the MOT, but it feels horrible. I'm going to change the master to a Landy NRC8690, which will firm it up a bit and shorten the stroke. But it's not the whole solution. Does anyone know where all the give in the system could be coming from? Old pads on new disks and new shoes on old drums? Would that account for it? All help would be much appreciated.
  13. Thanks, that's fine. Can you just check the servo is the Bendix type (bigger diameter and thinner than the Girling's which were fitted on the Mk3) before I paypal you? I ask because someone recently sent me a "MK5 Servo" and it was a Mk3 servo with a 2-port Mk3 cylinder attached. Maybe someone had fitted it to a Mk5 as a repair job. Or perhaps some Mk5's have the old-style Mk3 servo/master? Cars built from parts-bin oddments at the end of the production run? Or maybe it didn't come off a Mk5 at all. I dunno! checked it and it is the bendix type (bigger and thinner) im off on hols on monday so if you get chance to pay this weekend i,ll post it monday if not i,ll post it on the 25th cheers nigel Thanks Nogger. Payment sent to noggerhopkins@aol.com. Cheers, Ian. PS No rush to post. After hols would be fine.
  14. Thanks, that's fine. Can you just check the servo is the Bendix type (bigger diameter and thinner than the Girling's which were fitted on the Mk3) before I paypal you? I ask because someone recently sent me a "MK5 Servo" and it was a Mk3 servo with a 2-port Mk3 cylinder attached. Maybe someone had fitted it to a Mk5 as a repair job. Or perhaps some Mk5's have the old-style Mk3 servo/master? Cars built from parts-bin oddments at the end of the production run? Or maybe it didn't come off a Mk5 at all. I dunno!
  15. Even with circlip pliers it was a challenge. Question remains though: should I remove this metal circlip and its carefully machined metal spacer?
  16. Haynes manual for Mk4/5 Cortina says that the brake master comes with a circlip holding the plunger in. This has to be removed before fitting. The two old Bendix/Girling master/servo's I have taken apart have both had plastic circlips fitted to the master. These look like temporary things which should have been removed before fitting. The circlips are chunky and look like the ones in the Haynes diagram. They are easy to pop out. My new master (a new but non-Girling part from ebayer popy760 item 310327997058) came with a proper metal circlip and a machined spacer. These look like pretty permanent things which are meant to be part of the mechanism. They are a s*d to get out too. When removed, nothing happens. The plunger does not fall out nor does it move any further up the bore. Common sense kinda says that this circlip is hard to remove because it is meant to be there and should stay there when the master is fitted. So... :headscratch:... What do I go with... Haynes who is talking about a Ford original part? Or common sense? Popy760 couldn't help when asked.
  17. Hi ian is it just the servo you want not the master cylinder as could do just the servo for £25 +p&p hi ian could do the whole lot for £50 inc p&p Hi Nogger. Looks like no-one else wants the brake bits. Can I have just the servo, please? Can I paypal you the £25 plus P&P? Cheers, Ian. PS I'll need the vac pipe fitting where it goes into the servo, and if the non-return-valve is in the vac pipe (not in the fitting) then I'll need that too please.
  18. Hi ian is it just the servo you want not the master cylinder as could do just the servo for £25 +p&p hi ian could do the whole lot for £50 inc p&p Hi Nogger. Looks like no-one else wants the brake bits. Can I have just the servo, please? Can I paypal you the £25 plus P&P? Cheers, Ian.
  19. Hi ian is it just the servo you want not the master cylinder as could do just the servo for £25 +p&p hi ian could do the whole lot for £50 inc p&p Thanks, Nogger. I've just picked up a fully-working one and I've got two poor-condition ones coming in the post too. So I'd be greedy to take this one without giving someone else first refusal. They don't grow on trees and I don't want to hog a whole pile of them unnecessarily. >>>> So if anyone wants nogger's servo/master then please pipe up now and they're very welcome to step in and buy it. <<<<< If no-one else does want it then I'll take it off your hands because it would be a crime to let one of these increasingly rare items go to scrap. Cheers, Ian.
  20. Hmmm.. I'm a bit cr*p at this, aren't I? The item number is 120743856358 .
  21. Hi, Thanks. Yeah, £25 is pretty fair. (I thought it would have gone by now TBH.) I could do with the servo and the reservoir. But I'll get a new cylinder - they're widely available and not too expensive. Depends on which servo it is though. What's the spacing of the cylinder mount-bolts... 85mm or 61mm? On 2nd thoughts, maybe it's easier for both of us if you just want to ship the whole thing to me? I can see if the cylinder is worth rebuilding. Can you tell me a price for the servo+reservoir and a price for the whole lot? Then I'll make my mind up. Promise. Cheers, Ian. Hi ian is it just the servo you want not the master cylinder as could do just the servo for £25 +p&p
  22. http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574629005&toolid=10001&campid=5335900709&customid=&mpre=http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&pub=5574629005&toolid=10001&campid=5335900709&customid=&mpre=http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?ff3=4&amp;pub=5574629005&amp;toolid=10001&amp;campid=5335900709&amp;customid=&amp;mpre=http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FORD-CORTINA-2000E-WHEEL-BOLT-BREAKING-RESTORATION-/120743856358?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1ce508e6 Seller is a BSC member but hasn't ever posted on here. Someone going to grab it before he breaks it?
  23. Hi, Would the brake servo be available? Posted to SW Wales? Cheers, Ian.
  24. My Mk3 has super-hard front springs and ridiculously soft rears. The front is so stiff it's very skittish, while the rear bottoms out. The fronts are after-market and are marked "SP1577" hand-painted in gold paint. Does anyone recognise that part number... or know of an after-market supplier who uses "SPxxxx" to catalog their springs? Then I can figure out what to replace them with to get the same ride height. I know, I know, it's a long shot. But could save me buying and discarding three sets of springs from Burton or Rally Design.
  25. I think Practical Classic's concerns were about damage to solder and other lead components. Which sounds like stuff you would find only on really old production cars. Can't think of anything like that in a standard Mk3/4/5 Cortina engine. But then again, let's not risk it. Plus, I've repaired my heating system using soldered copper pipe, which makes the red stuff a bit dodgy for me.
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