MK5 V8

Probably a faulty regulator

Hi Guys, we were having a clear out at work and found a few old stock recon'd alternators. They are mainly A127 types in different formats either Lucas, Bosch or Delco with either spade or bolt on connections. Some have fans and pulleys some don't and you will have to use your old ones. i will list them using Sovereign or hella part numbers and i have cross referenced to find out output. If people are interested in purchasing any then i will test the unit before despatch. Postage is £10 up to 30Kg The first one. SA745 70amp fits various fords from 1974-99 i have 4 of these 2 with pulleys 2 without £30 ea SA521 36 amp ACR various fords 1966--99 1 only £25 SA952 55amp Bosch Various fords 1 only £30 This one is an O/E Ford part for a P100 NOS £60 SA495 55amp Transit possibly other fords with oil pump spline i have 2 the other is 70 amp £30 SA526 70amp for Escort/ Orion 1985-00 £35 SA905 70-75amp Escort VI - Mondeo Mk1 1990-01 £35 CA562IR Granada Sierra Transit £30 Bosch A127 fits various fords £30 These are commonly know as A133 type, again used on various fords and between 35- 55 amp, i have 4 of these £30 SA952 Bosch Various fords £30 SA421 Delco 36amp Various fords £30 and the last one A115 again various fords i think 35amp £25 If any of these units is of any use then please PM me. Cheers Guys

you can get fans with flat fins as opposed to the angled fins on the usual fan that allow you to use in either direction

check the connections that come out the side of the fuse box, i had a similar problem, no dip but main, then no main but dip and it was those connections

Durite do a round to flat battery terminal part number 0-022-00

A glowing charge lamp usually indicates a faulty rectifer, a diode blown which is also why you are only getting 13.6 volts. regulators are set to 14.2 and this is what you should be getting. you say you swapped with an unknown unit but this could also be faulty

yep deffo the starter, if it was remanned then it wasn't done very well, probably a short from the field coils to the body

i've insured with classicline, my car is modded to the hilt and they only wanted to know what engine i had in it, also they do an agreed valuation fo £20. been with them for 4 years now and the price has stayed the same too :thumbup:

very nice. clean and tidy i must say :thumbup:

Cheers guys, it would have been a shame just to leave it unloved sitting in the garage :thumbup:

Well it's been a while since i've been on here after having a little shunt in my car back in Ausust 2015. I had gone to a little show in leicester and by midday it started to drizzle with rain so we all decided to find somewhere to get a bite to eat. I was one of the last to leave with some others, got on the road and approached a roundabout. Realizing i was in the wrong lane, i shot accross and as i was accelerating ont of the roundabout the backend swung out and the next thing i remember was :poo: this is gunna be expensive, i slammed sideways into the curb and the backend bounced up and into a barrier. I was quite lucky there were no others involved. anyway with the help of Gavin XRS and his mates we got the car off the road to await a tow truck. When i got home i put it in the garage and there it stayed for a few months to assess the damage 2 busted alloys bent steering rack bent brake disc bent rear halfshaft bent rear bumper broken rear light damage to the rear valance and a dent in the rear quarter. I was debating whether to sell it of fix it but as i've promised it to my son i had to fix it, so the hunt was on for the parts. Ebay came up trumps as usual and i got the half shafts, brake discs and steering rack. Gavin found me a set of the wheels i had on it originally ( never thought i would get another set) and i managed to straighten out the bumper and bracket and i also had a spare rear light. With the parts collected i went about repairing the damage. With that done it was just a case of saving some cash for the bodywork repairs. This has now been done. i also found some electrical gremlins too, as the washers wouldn't work and the indicators would flash randomly and the headlights wouldn't work properly, also the wiper motor was very lazy, almost straining to wipe. i found the small earth wire which bolts on to stalk switch burnt out, so i repaired that, the headlight connectors from the fusebox were dirty, so i cleaned them and replaced the wiper motor with a spare one i had and now everything is working normally. So MOT next week and back on the road ( fingers crossed)

Hey guys has anybody got any of the little cone shaped bootlid rubber bumpers, they fit on the inside on either side where the bootlid folds down, like this Cheers Andy

Well i just screwed the trackrod ends on a couple of turns and fitted them back in the uprights and they're toeing out massively so the guy at tha garage was either winding me up or his fitter is a useless get. i'll find out tommorow

Ok, i rang the suppliers of the rack and he asked me to measure the length of the rack which i have and it's 1175mm from end to end, does this sound right? apon further inspection the wheels don't look as far out as the garage said they were which was 16 degree toe in which i assume would make it very weird to drive, there is also a good inch of thread in the track rod end, your thoughts please :thumbup:

As the battery is flat then i would say yes. 12volt bulbs need 12 volts to work and if your battery is less than 12 then they won't work. Charge the battery for at least 24 hours and try again. the alternator not charging is probably down to the regulator or brushes worn out

the track rod ends are the right ones as i didn't replace them when fitting the new rack, so i think craig is probably right with the wrong arms being used. i shall ring them me thinks :thumbup:

Hey guys, i'm sure i have read on here somewhere someone having the same issue with steering racks. i bought a brand new one from kelly bray steering last year. well i fitted it and took it to get the tracking checked only to be told the rack is wrong, as in the arms are to short to be able to track it, they fall out the track rod ends. now are there 2 different racks or are there different length track rod ends.. the mind boggles. :headscratch: cheers

Will do :thumbup:

Hi someone else messaged me about this which i read first so he has first dibs, if not then it's yours :thumbup:

Hi guys n gals, i have for sale a NOS steel sports wheel with a new 165/70/13 tyre which i had as a spare. i no longer need it and need the space in the garage. £20 Cheers

Fit a lower wattage bulb in the warning light

First of all, charge the battery for at least 24 hours, even longer if it's really flat then get it tested. Check the cables. Just because they are tight doesn't mean they are good. If they are old and corroded then there will be high resistance which can cause your problem. It's not a good idea to try and crank an engine with a weak or low battery as this will draw high current from the battery causing the contacts in the solenoid to burn and stick and the brushes and commutator to overheat and burn. Also if you have a starter motor which has magnets instead of field coils then it's not a good idea to hit it with a hammer as you could break the magnets

My neighbour who worked for fords for over 40 years told me that cortinas with bad roofs got a vinyl one. i had a 73 GT Mk3 with a vinyl and when i pulled it off there was a patch of filler and it was un painted too so i would have thought this was fitted at the factory. if the roof was painted then the vinyl may have been fitted at the dealers as an option

Looks to me like evolution, the first one, luke warm to the last one....yes!!! some hot air.. or the could just be from different manufacturers

Flickering light is either blown diode on the rectifier, worn brushes and slip rings or faulty regulator, as others have said, ditch the ACR and get an A127 :thumbup: