BushidoB

Thank you so much. Now it all makes sense. The lights loom diagram labelled it a regulator, which confused me. Much appreciated.

Hello I'm currently learning about the looms in my cortina (Mk3 '71). I'd like to rewire down the road. I'm getting confused on how the regulator is set up. If someone could kindly share their knowledge (and patience), that would be hugely appreciated. I've added some pics in case it helps. (I'm assuming this is the voltage regulator, let me know if not!!). Diagrams I've seen show the regulator is part of the lights loom, and not in the charging loom. My alternator has 3 wires. I was expecting these to be an exciter (leading to the ignition switch), positive cable (connecting directly to the battery) and voltage regulator wire (also circles back to the battery for voltage monitoring). But it seems my basic alternator knowledge isn't in sync with reality. Out of the two red wires coming out of the alternator, is it a case one connects to the battery and the other the regulator? Then all power is generally sourced via the regulator (or at least for the lights)? Though it was better to ask, than to take things apart and run continuity tests.

Ah, got it. Yeah, mine's 1600 OHV with inertia motor. Thanks for that!

Hello I've recently taking an interest in car wiring, after years of blindly letting someone else do it. I'm learning a lot, but have a random question, more out of curiosity. I've attached the diagrams from the starter system loom (I'm keeping in mind this is for the GT RHD). I've attached a pic of my set up (I never originally wired the car - mk3 71). The wiring diagram has a 3rd red wire with yellow wire. I don't have these. What would these typically be for? It reads as through they're also going back to the ignition switch. In this set up, is the red feeding anchoring off the relay to feed ignition switch power? Not sure what the Yellow is for. Best

Same here.

Hello Hoping to get some experienced advice. I bought a service kit for a weber 32/36 dgv, clean it and now putting it back together for the first time. 1) Noticed the secondary throttle slides a fraction of a mm. The left screw doesn't seem to be getting tighter, so thinking something must be wrong. 2) Once both throttle shafts are linked together, there seems to "sticking". I've attached a couple of videos. First time putting this together, so maybe I'm over thinking it, but wasn't sure. Any advice would be appreciated. Best Michael Carb Sliding 480.MP4 Carb sticking 480.MP4

Thanks! Will give this a go on the weekend.

Hello! Noobie question. Unfortunately, had to leave my mk 3 sitting for a couple of weeks (although it’s never been a problem before). Can no longer get the engine to turn turnover. Have used start spray/fluid to see if I can “get it going” but engine dies. Fuel gets past pump and filter, but nothing seems to be pumped into the chamber when turning the throttle. Is this looking like a carb float problem? I’ve got a manual choke 32/36 DGV weber. Not clued up on carb specifics so may take it to a mechanic if it’s a complicated issue, but just wanted to see if anyone has a vague idea of what I’m looking at. Regrettably, thinking back on things, I may have missed a few early warning flags. Acceleration hasn’t been as great for a while (but it’s a 1.6 crossflow, so was never magical). And have had to use starter spray the last few starts… Can’t wait to upgrade the engine tbh.

Electric ignition. But I've stumbled onto the culprit. I have a manual choke. The cable was loose the carb. Not sure how that happened... Tighten it up and it started after a few goes. Carb wasn't choked the whole time when trying to start. Embarrassing. Will get back to the cooling system next week!

Thanks all. Currently in the process of resolving. Here's the status. - Drained the current coolant out. It was rusty. - Replaced fluid. Replaced cap. Replaced Thermostat. - Filled with distilled water and just tested to see if the engine would start. - Engine turned over. - Then drained that water. Added fresh distilled water and a cleaner to release rust and limescale. Once that had run for the designated time, I was going to flush everything. However, now it's not starting. It's cranking, but not firing. Also noticed slight mist from the oil cap (or maybe that's usual. Just never noticed it before...) Oil is still black. Looks normal. Is this sounding like a head gasket? Distributor is relatively new. Am I going to have to test if the spark plugs are sparking? I'll then have to defer to a mechanic, since it's just me! thanks

Thanks all. Much appreciated. Im going to do/replace. All of these. Then hope its not the head gasket! Best

Attaching pic!

Hello Cortina Mk 3. OHV Crossflow. (Attached for ref) Need some expert advice. Left my engine to run a bit, since hadn't driven in a couple of weeks. After ten mins, the engine cut out and water starting pouring out the radiator's overflow tube. Doesn't anyone know what this is a symptom of? The thermostat and housing is new. probably a year old. Best Michael

Many thanks! Ill get cracking. Oddly enough theyve started working again. But will check everything as advised and get a back up flasher unit at least. Thanks.

Merry Christmas All If someone can take time out of the festive season to help a noob out with a persistent issue, I would be grateful. My indicators have stopped "blinking" have decided to display a solid light. It happened before, but decided to "sort itself out" when I was going to dig deeper. Sometimes while driving, it'll flash twice (very slow), then turn solid. Of course the day leading up to this, it was flashing slow. (I've got a Mk3 Cortina '71) Could someone kindly advise on the standard checks? If I'm looking at the correct unit, the flasher unit is not OEM. It's a four way, also hooked up to a basic alarm system (see attached). Indicators "blink" perfectly when switching the alarm on and off. Many thanks for any help Michael