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Dave53

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Posts posted by Dave53

  1. Posted

    Hi Gang,

    I've got what I think is a Smith's rev counter-RV1 2413/00 neg earth.

     

    On the back it has 118E 17360.

     

    I tried the counter on my mates Escort Mk.1 and it reads twice the revs

    that his rev counter in his car does.

     

    He has an electronic distributor and an Accuspark programmable black box fitted.

     

    I plan on fitting this to my Mk.1 Tina with neg earth and points and condenser.

     

    Two questions-

    1. Why does it read wrong and

    2. Will it fit my Tina and still be wrong.

     

    All good questions-I just need some good answers..

     

    I'm sure someone out there has the answers..

     

    In anticipation..

     

    Regards Mouse..

     

    Hi Mouse, Similar problems with Mk2 series 1 GT Cortina. If Ive got it right RVI tacho's were current source and usualy wired in series with the cotact points, later RVC (or not marked) tacho.s were voltage sense and were wired in parallel with contact points. RVI tachos tend to read double with electronic Ign but I believe can be converted. A good description I found was on the following. super7.dk/instruments.html

  2. Posted

    No, it's original.

    Have yoy got electronic ignition fitted? If so sounds like the same problem as I have series 1 have RVI Tacho's fitted (curret sensing connected in series)) ,later models are fitted with RVC Tacho which are wired differently (connected in parallel) and work with electronic ignition. Hope this may be of some help

  4. Posted

    Fitted Acuspark to my 1970 1600E several years ago worked fine for a month or so then developed a misfire contacted Accuspark who replaced FOC no problems after, and the Tacho worked fine with it

  5. Posted

    Hope someone may know the answer, my series1 tacho is reading probably double it was fitted with a distributor based electronic unit by the previous owner which is connected directly across the coil contacts. Have read many threads some mentioning converting the tacho but not sure whats involved or if that is the problem believe the unit may have been supplied by Burtons . Any help greatly appreciated

  6. Posted

    Hi thanks for the reply i do drive it gently but sometimes it does get a good booting, any way engine half way out now will have a look again when the engine goes back in the car sometime in the next couple of months Andy

    Had a petrol smell problem with my 1600E likewise could not find any leaks etc, eventually traced the problem to a very small hole in the petrol pump diaphram causing a small drip of fuel which due to the hot engine vapourised immediately could be worth a look if nothing else shows itself

  7. Posted

    hi all,just a quick one,will the door seals for a mk 1 fit a mk 2.if not wheres the best place to get some. :headscratch:

    Not sure about the Mk1 to Mk2 fitting but have fitted a new set to my series 2 1600E these were from the Mk2 &1600E owners club. Fitted well had to drill one extra pip hole but pleased with the result, not cheap!

  8. Posted

    Hi

    I need some advice please. i have just fitted a voltmeter to the car (MK1 1500 1964) and when i started the car i was suprised to see it go straight up in to the red top end range of the meter which is 16 volts.

    So when the engine went back to idle the reading dropped to approx 12.5 volts so i switched off and left the car overnight to allow the battery to settle, this morning i checked the battery voltage with my multimeter before starting the car and it was 12.68 i then started the engine and at approx 2000 rpm checked the battery again with my multimeter and the reading was fluctuating between 16.07 and 16.10 volts!! and at idle speed it is still 12.78 volts, this is surely far to high and i was wondering what the problem might be because if this reading stays high like this then will it damage the battery.

    Could the problem be the regulator? and if so how can you check this component and is it adjustable for voltage setting?.

     

    Sorry if the post is a bit long winded but i wanted to give as much info as possible.

    Many thanks :thumbup:

    Had a word with a pal who works in vehicle electrics he said it's a old trick to keep the charge up in dynamo vehicles that are not regularly used, the regulator has been reset high. The regulator will need reseting or replacing Haynes Manual may be a good place to start. Cheers .Dave

  13. Posted

    Does anybody know what thread the screws that mount the points to the distributor top plate are. Found one stripped on the last few threads, have added a few washers for the time being but do'nt want to take the chance of leaving it like this

     

    the one that holds the condensor on the outer body is the same, swap em over ;)

    happena all the time mate :)

     

    Good idea will do that for time being Cheers Dave

  15. Posted

    At the nationals i see a savage with the sensor(saves typing)fitted inside the top hose (saves having a special T piece type hose)At the rad inlet normal jubilee clip and it looked like some sort of blue sealant had been used.

    Think it was the loverly 3.4 with triple webbers,sorry drooling over me keyboard at the mo.

    As i am in the middle of replacing rad/hoses/thermostat hsg/leccy fan (see other post)Does anyone know if chap gets on here or any idea on the sealant type :cheers: kev

     

     

    You can buy the needed bits from Burtons I think, but some silicone sealant should do. I have used it before. Paul

     

     

    Kenlow used to supply a rubber insert to seal the capillary to the hose , might be worth a phone call. Cheers Dave

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