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Mine is a 1967 1500 DeLux and was purchased by my father for my oldest sister in 1969. It then passed on to my other sister and I to share until 1972 when I was given full use. I purchased it from my father in 1979 and have kept it.

One question I have is that I have an electronic ignition system from a 1979 Fiesta with the Bosch full advance distributor. Would there be any problem with installing this on my '67? The full advance Bosch distributor was for the Fiesta XR2 with the 1600 Kent Xflow. I am putting a 1600GT engine in it since the 1500 died and easier to deal with the 1600 engines through the Formula Ford suppliers here in the US.

Thanks. This should be a great help.

I have a '67 MkII i am restoring. My plans for it are to do a combination restoration/customization of it. The target is to put make the body look original, upgrade the interior some, modernize the electrical system, and run the engine with the MegaSquirt III ECU. I have had the car since high school, and want to make it a fun weekend driver.

http://www.diyautotune.com/ Is a source here in the US for the MegaSquirt products. The MegaSquirt range is up to MS-III and have just introduced the MS3-Pro. I am looking at possibly putting a MS-III on my MkII. http://ms3efi.com/index.html is another site with lots of information.

Try this company: http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

I received the Cole-Hersee switches. The chrome ring from the original switches does fit the Cole-Hersee switches. The lever is a bit thinner and longer, and they are have a keywan instead of the flat for orientation. When in place they will look like the originals. The switch bodies are larger, but should still fit. I will try to take some pictures and post. I will restate that the three way light switch for off/parking lights/parking lights+headlights is being discontinued, and will no longer be available when the current stock is depleted. The other option is to go with the Lucas switches. The holes in the panels may need to be modified for the Lucas switches though. That should be a small issue.

http://www.elecdirect.com/product/ae85e11d-dcdc-4660-8581-648aa2169ce4.aspx This is the full address for the switch.

Through a search that led me to a Cobra forum reference to Cole Herrsee switches. http://www.elecdirect.com/product/ae85e11d-dcdc-4660-8581-648aa2169ce4.aspx They are not exact, but have the same dimensions for the mounting (15/32" x 32 threads per inch) of the original. The particular switch the link leads to is for the lighting switch. It is being phased out, but the supplier can still obtain them until supplies are depleted. They have the other switches as well except for a suitable alternative for the fan switch. I am still looking for that one.

I am in the process of looking for new panel switches for a Mk2 Series 1. I was thinking that they are Lucas switches, but after removing the ones from my car they don't look like the Lucas switches I have found a source for here in the US. Are the panel switches Ford or Lucas. If they are Ford where is a source for the switches? If they are Lucas I will still need to know where I can find the exact replacements. If they can be substituted can the work with the following: -Lucas 31788 three position toggle switch,OFF/ON/ON. 20AMP (Running & Head Lights)also for speed control (heater fan). -Lucas SPB200 two position toggle switch. Used for running lights, electric fans, electric fuel pump. OFF/ON. 20AMP. -Lucas SPB204 momentary on wiper washer switch, or brake test switch 20AMP. -Lucas 35927 Wiper motor switch. Off position will park the wipers. Also has low speed and high speed toggle. 20AMP. Any help on this will be greatly appreciated.

One example of what I mean is from a forum for diesel swaps in cars and trucks. One person posted he was considering putting a Cummins 4BT diesel in a Ford Explorer, and in his post asked for information on how to do it and what to consider in the swap. The replies went along the lines of; Yes it is possible; With enough time and money it is possible;..... What was missing in the replies was specific information that could help him with his project. I have noticed in this forum that most often the correct and specific information is given within the first few replies to the orginal post. That reflects people that are willing to help, and know what they are doing.

I joined this forum a few months ago to help me with my MkII restoration. I am on some other forums to help with other vehicles I own, but this one is the most helpfull and informative. I have noticed that a member can post an issue they are having, and in many within one or two responses there is an answer provided and not an endless stream of nonsense posts that never address the original issue.

In my time driving Formula Fords I was told by my engine guy to use mineral oil to break in so the rings will seat, then switch to synthetic after a brief break in. His reasoning is that the synthetic oil will not allow the rings to seat properly due to the supperior lubrication. That brings up another question for me - What is the harm in running synthetic oil in a 1600GT road car. I used synthetic in the FF with genuine Ford seals and gaskets and did not detect any problems. The FF experienced a 3hp gain on the dyno going from mineral oil to synthetic. That in the 1600GT would be nice.

A good source for information on ethanol blend fuels and vintage cars is http://www.historicvehicle.org/Resources/Resources/Ethanol