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Mine is a 1967 1500 DeLux and was purchased by my father for my oldest sister in 1969. It then passed on to my other sister and I to share until 1972 when I was given full use. I purchased it from my father in 1979 and have kept it.

One question I have is that I have an electronic ignition system from a 1979 Fiesta with the Bosch full advance distributor. Would there be any problem with installing this on my '67? The full advance Bosch distributor was for the Fiesta XR2 with the 1600 Kent Xflow. I am putting a 1600GT engine in it since the 1500 died and easier to deal with the 1600 engines through the Formula Ford suppliers here in the US.

Thanks. This should be a great help.

I have a '67 MkII i am restoring. My plans for it are to do a combination restoration/customization of it. The target is to put make the body look original, upgrade the interior some, modernize the electrical system, and run the engine with the MegaSquirt III ECU. I have had the car since high school, and want to make it a fun weekend driver.

http://www.diyautotune.com/ Is a source here in the US for the MegaSquirt products. The MegaSquirt range is up to MS-III and have just introduced the MS3-Pro. I am looking at possibly putting a MS-III on my MkII. http://ms3efi.com/index.html is another site with lots of information.

Try this company: http://www.scottsoldautorubber.com.au/

I received the Cole-Hersee switches. The chrome ring from the original switches does fit the Cole-Hersee switches. The lever is a bit thinner and longer, and they are have a keywan instead of the flat for orientation. When in place they will look like the originals. The switch bodies are larger, but should still fit. I will try to take some pictures and post. I will restate that the three way light switch for off/parking lights/parking lights+headlights is being discontinued, and will no longer be available when the current stock is depleted. The other option is to go with the Lucas switches. The holes in the panels may need to be modified for the Lucas switches though. That should be a small issue.

http://www.elecdirect.com/product/ae85e11d-dcdc-4660-8581-648aa2169ce4.aspx This is the full address for the switch.

Through a search that led me to a Cobra forum reference to Cole Herrsee switches. http://www.elecdirect.com/product/ae85e11d-dcdc-4660-8581-648aa2169ce4.aspx They are not exact, but have the same dimensions for the mounting (15/32" x 32 threads per inch) of the original. The particular switch the link leads to is for the lighting switch. It is being phased out, but the supplier can still obtain them until supplies are depleted. They have the other switches as well except for a suitable alternative for the fan switch. I am still looking for that one.

I am in the process of looking for new panel switches for a Mk2 Series 1. I was thinking that they are Lucas switches, but after removing the ones from my car they don't look like the Lucas switches I have found a source for here in the US. Are the panel switches Ford or Lucas. If they are Ford where is a source for the switches? If they are Lucas I will still need to know where I can find the exact replacements. If they can be substituted can the work with the following: -Lucas 31788 three position toggle switch,OFF/ON/ON. 20AMP (Running & Head Lights)also for speed control (heater fan). -Lucas SPB200 two position toggle switch. Used for running lights, electric fans, electric fuel pump. OFF/ON. 20AMP. -Lucas SPB204 momentary on wiper washer switch, or brake test switch 20AMP. -Lucas 35927 Wiper motor switch. Off position will park the wipers. Also has low speed and high speed toggle. 20AMP. Any help on this will be greatly appreciated.

One example of what I mean is from a forum for diesel swaps in cars and trucks. One person posted he was considering putting a Cummins 4BT diesel in a Ford Explorer, and in his post asked for information on how to do it and what to consider in the swap. The replies went along the lines of; Yes it is possible; With enough time and money it is possible;..... What was missing in the replies was specific information that could help him with his project. I have noticed in this forum that most often the correct and specific information is given within the first few replies to the orginal post. That reflects people that are willing to help, and know what they are doing.

I joined this forum a few months ago to help me with my MkII restoration. I am on some other forums to help with other vehicles I own, but this one is the most helpfull and informative. I have noticed that a member can post an issue they are having, and in many within one or two responses there is an answer provided and not an endless stream of nonsense posts that never address the original issue.

In my time driving Formula Fords I was told by my engine guy to use mineral oil to break in so the rings will seat, then switch to synthetic after a brief break in. His reasoning is that the synthetic oil will not allow the rings to seat properly due to the supperior lubrication. That brings up another question for me - What is the harm in running synthetic oil in a 1600GT road car. I used synthetic in the FF with genuine Ford seals and gaskets and did not detect any problems. The FF experienced a 3hp gain on the dyno going from mineral oil to synthetic. That in the 1600GT would be nice.

A good source for information on ethanol blend fuels and vintage cars is http://www.historicvehicle.org/Resources/Resources/Ethanol

Brazil is using sugar cane for ethanol production. I don't know how that has effected the supply to the markets from the diversion of sugar cane crops to ethanol production. If they have increased the crops and not robbed the food markets great. This is one area of it I have not personally looked into.

In the US Ethanol production has hurt the supply of especially corn for food for human consumption, and feed for cattle. The regulations where driven by the corn farmers lobby in congress to try to build in a market for a consistant demand for their crops. We have a saying 'follow the money' to see who is behind legislation, and who is benefitting from the legislation.

Here in the US we are already some distance down the road with the 10% ethanol. Other than the issues of compatibility with fuel system component materials, there is the issue of loss of performance, and fuel economy. For instance my daily driver is a 2004 MINI Cooper. I experience a 15%-20% drop in fuel economy with the 10% ethanol blend than with pure gasoline. (There are some stations that sell pure gas in our area.) An article by Dan Edmunds, Director of Vehicle Testing, Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor, Edmunds.com published May 21, 2007. The link is http://www.edmunds.com/fuel-economy/e85-vs-gasoline-comparison-test.htm. I know this test was for E85 (85% ethanol), but the results for E10 are similar to a smaller degree. Other problems with ethanol is that it is corrosive, and hygroscopic which means corrosion in the fuel system in addition to the other issues already mentioned. As a rule of thumb - It takes the equivalent energy of one gallon of gasoline to make a gallon of ethanol, and there is only 2/3 the energy in a gallon of ethanol compared to a gallon of gasoline.

Mine is a '67 Mk2 1500 Deluxe with the standard 1500 single port face. Actually got it to 80 mph (maxed out at that point). I am currently restoring it, and will have a 1600gt motor in it when done. We will have to make another run to see then.

I will have to look into the availability of the T56. Some of the Mustangs in the US in the '80s had the 2.3l engines and the bell housing is the same bolt up as the 1.6l. I will have to look into the input shaft splines. If I could source a T9 I am not against installing that. The question is what would I have to do to the tunnel to fit the T9?

Thanks for the reply. The reason I am considering using a T5 is they are available in the US based on the number of cars that used them. They can be found at junk yards (breakers) in the 4 cyl Ford Mustangs from the 80's. There are also several vendors that sell parts including different gear ratios. That does concern me about the size.

I did a search and did not see a threat, or post about this. Has anyone converted a Mk2 to a 5 speed with a Borg Warner/Tremec T5 transmission? If so how did you do it?

Awesome find. Has it been restored at some point, or is it all original? Am I correct that the plate in the latest pics are CA? I am in South Carolina and own a Mk2.

As one that will start a restoration on a MkII I would like to know who sells the GAZ coil over struts like the ones in your pics?

I am always saddened by governments that take freedoms away from citizens. But in most cases dealing with politicians – Follow the money. Who is behind the scenes influencing the regulation? In the case of the proposed EC regulation to eliminate the ability to modify your vehicle, who is to benefit from the rule? I will say for my case living in South Carolina, USA if we want to modify our cars we just do it. We don’t have any regulations against it, and we don’t have vehicle inspections either. What the controlling factor is if you have an accident as a result of the modification the injured party will hold you legally liable for the damages, and the law enforcement having jurisdiction will also charge you with any applicable violations as well. In other words, we have the freedom to modify our cars if we want, but do it properly and responsibly or suffer the consequences. In case you’re curious about our state dropping the vehicle inspections they found that most people trade in their cars periodically enough that they did not get to a point of being unsafe. Therefore the need for the inspections was not justified.