TimB

Ok Ta. I always prefer standard, they do look better than the alloys, IMO. Nice car.

Who did you use for the wheel referb? I'm looking for a sensible priced good job to be done.

Fibre glass wings turned to dust maybe.

Ok sorry, hopefully they are. I was only highlighting them because in the past I've messed about trying to get callipers that look good externally to retract and the only solution was strip and reseal. If new pads are tight and make the disc bind it suggests piston sticking problem, and also give odd pedal feel. But I'll accept your assessment. Good luck.

The seals in the brake callipers are static in the housing and have a squarish profile. When the piston moves outward to press the pads the seal distorts and then when the pressure is released it should return to rest shape and allow the piston to return letting the pads sit in the off position with a gap between them and the disc so the discs turn freely. This also gives the disc brake self adjusting feature. Listening to the brakes were binding before the new pads wore down a bit suggests the calliper seals have gone hard and less flexible. This can give good brake operation but not letting the pistons retract to the rest, free play position. There is no other way of checking this other than taking the callipers off and stripping them and changing the seals. It's a common fault, especially on old classics that may have had periods of low mileage. They also clog up with brake dust from the pad wear, the dust seals leaking letting in water and road dirt etc. If you jack the car up, remove wheels and pads you should be able to carefully push the pistons right back into the housing (G clamp) to see if they retract fully. Before doing this make sure the brake fluid in the reservoir has enough space to rise as you push the pistons, if not syphon some out. (Don't want to squirt or leak it over the paintwork). Something to try, servo does sound to be working. Good luck

Not had the problem but yes WD40 or similar, squirt a bit on, let it soak in, run the engine to warm it up so things expand. Repeat, repeat, repeat and pray it loosens. Not sure if you have space to grip base, gently with stilsens after soaking to encourage it to move, certainly not a FGH moment. Good luck.

Follow on thought, just remembered. Don't know if the auto linkage is the same on a MK5 as a MK3 but on my MK5 the nylon bushes had disappeared/disintegrated making the selector a bit loose and sometimes it affected the connection with the inhibitor switch, causing it to not always engage the starter in P or D. If you look at my posts you can see the story and remedy. Good luck again

Diagnosing an intermittent fault can be a nightmare, especially when as shown in the video you never know if it will happen. Proper diagnosis is difficult if it doesn't do the fault when you check it. Before changing any parts I'd suggest trying various safe bypassing tests to see if the fault disappears e.g.as Craig suggested. However you can still not be 100% sure you have found the real fault. I'd start by one at a time removing starter circuit wires/cables and clean the connections and make sure they are suitably tight (not overtightening) If you do more than one at a time and it solves the problem you don't know which was at fault. This is a cranking fault, not a starting fault. It will be hard for you to sort this as you admit you are a layman mechanically, not your fault, but to put it in the hands of someone else may take ages and cost lots of £'s. Sorry not a lot of help, suggesting tactics more than diagnosing. Very difficult to diagnose without being hands on with the car. Not being negative but you may have more chance sorting it if it totally fails so fault can be diagnosed. Good luck.

Are they chrome effect screen inserts? but you are not sure which Cortina they fit?

thanks but what parts are in the bags?

Hi, what's in the two East Kent trim bags please?

The tapered copper olive on the pipe seals between the tapered faces of the pump aluminium housing and the steel nut union. The compression of tightening makes a seal because the copper union compresses against the tapered surfaces. Whilst it needs to be tight, overtightening can damage the olive and it won't seal. First photo shows the seal has got a wear step on the seal surface from previous fitting/removal. But the pipe is also bent out of alignment too. If an o-ring was put into the joint it would just compress and probably rip/split. I see the idea but for this type of fitting not workable. All part of the fun of owning a classic.

The metal pipe bend looks like it is out of shape and this is pulling the inlet pipe out of alignment and may be stopping the olive aligning correctly in the pump inlet housing. I say replace the whole metal pipe, and olive with the new pipe properly bent to 90 degrees. Maybe fit the new pipe first then fit the rubber to it, so that you can see it is straight and central in the pump inlet. I've never found a sealant that will stop a fuel leak. An o-ring is the wrong type of fitting so would probably leak more. Bending the pipe to 90 degrees without compressing it or kinking it is the challenge. Plumbers pipe benders do not go down to such small pipe diameters, gas fitters use similar size pipe but I'm not sure what sort of bending tool they use. Screw fix may sell pipe bending tools of various sizes. Metal pipe needs to be rolled by a proper tool to prevent it closing up or cracking. Good luck

EBay item 186799017996 maybe? Ends soon

Keith, are you suggesting fake MK1 Lotus Cortinas exist 😲 🫣