TimB

Hello all, For the usual cliché reasons, too many cars and not using them enough etc, I'm going to slim down the number of classics I own. So before advertising I thought I'd offer them out to enthusiasts through this and other clubs first. I have to give them both a bit of a pre sale polish etc but happy to talk to anyone interested. So they are - 1980 MK5 Cortina Estate 2.0 GL Auto. one family ownership prior to me, totally original, masses of documented history, very good condition. 52K mls. Advertised price will start at £10,000. 1967 Ford Corsair 1.7 Auto 4 door. Totally original, some documented history that shows mileage is correct, never welded and doesn't need any, has age related marks, plenty of patina, only original once as they say. . 41K mls Advertised price will be £7,500. If anyone has serious interest or knows someone looking please message first on 07926 584206, I'll phone back or do a pm on here. Thanks. Tim

Whilst drilling the ball joint fixing holes put the camber back to negative camber the process shouldn’t have been necessary. How are you measuring the camber and Toe? As Craig said I’m only clutching at straws, but it sounds to me that the suspension subframe, components and the rack are not a compatible match. But like I said before I am not familiar with MK3,4 or 5 front suspensions. But I do know suspension technology and what you are experiencing is very strange. The bump and rebound action of the suspension should not affect the Toe. The distance between the tie rod ball joints is a set distance so pulling in the wheels should not happen when the suspension moves in either direction. Sorry possibly not a lot of help and probably telling you what you already know. Hope and answer comes up soon.

There should be no change to the Toe when the suspension moves from bump to rebound. I've been trying to think of what is causing your change in Toe but can only think that the suspension is somehow misaligned or damaged/bent, but your photos look like it is all in good order. Also can't understand why it is now different since you changed the rack (should of had no effect). If it had been doing this with the previous rack I expect you would have had the car wandering and tyres screeching when going over bumps etc. Would have to see it in person to comment further. Taking it to a wheel alignment (alleged specialists) centre might turn out a waste of time. Having seen them working I'd never take a car to any of them. Luckily I have two sets of wheel alignment and suspension kits so can do my own. Where in UK are you, happy to loan out. Again good luck and let us know how you get on.

Tracking, wheel alignment, Toe or whatever term is used, should only be checked with the car on the floor. Measuring it with the car in the air and the wheels not touching the ground will give unreliable results. 17mm Toe-in is massively excessive and suggests the rack, tie rods and ball joints combined are too narrow if it cannot be adjusted to correct. Even the slightest misaligned of wheel tracking will make the steering operation, suspension movement and braking dangerous and will knock tyres out like there is no tomorrow. Suspension movement should not affect wheel alignment (Toe), camber will alter as bump and rebound happens but this is natural and accounted for in the suspension design. I cannot comment on the mod you have made as I am not familiar with MK3 steering or Mk4 racks. But please make sure whatever you do is safe. Hearing making mods to the stub axles is quite worrying. Hope you get it sorted, good luck.

I've had a Citroen C3 1.6 SX Auto 2006 from new 110K mls. It is only on it's second set of pads, has original discs, original exhaust. And that is the Mrs driving most of the miles.

Thanks Craig, that's the one I need, I take it all the fixings are good too. I did send you a private message about it so do you want to use private messages to sort it out? I had something before from you so if we did PayPal I may have you still on there and you'll need my address. I'd rather exchange details in private messages. That work for you? Thanks. Tim

Hello all. I need a MK5 estate drivers door rubber bump trim as fitted to the swage line on GL and Ghia models. New or as good as new please, willing to pay a sensible price. I think it may be the same as a MK4. Or where to find one. Thanks in advance of any help. Tim

Did anyone else spot the MK5 estate on an auction web site that sold at the weekend for about £5.6K with fees. Within a day it's on eBay and already bids are up to £1K more. Can someone please save the classic car world from flippers.

You're probably better off posting this in the Technical section and adding pictures would be better. I'm sure people will help. Also is the pinto in a Cortina or Corsair.

I meant leave the original cable on the sender and use an extra test cable, this will test the earth connection between the sender and the engine block. Probably is the sender but doing this may show if the earth route from the sender body is not good. Good luck.

With the ignition on, what happens if you touch a test cable from the sender unit body to the battery earth? i.e. does the gauge go hot?

Assuming it has an inertia starter motor with separate solenoid. If you take the activator cable off the solenoid then use a different bit of cable from the battery positive to the solenoid activator solenoid, see if it operates correctly, if it does it suggests the ign/start switch is sticking or internally bridging. If you put a e.g. jump lead cable from the battery positive to the starter main cable terminal, (taking care not to accidentally short against anything metal) does the starter work correctly when you put the cable on and off as if operating the ign switch. If it does then starter is ok if it cranks too long or doesn't stop it's faulty. If you bridge the main cables on the solenoid (again with care) does the starter operate correctly. If yes it suggests the solenoid is faulty. Just some starters before spending money. Also it's a good idea to disconnect the battery then take all the starter circuit cables off one at a time and clean them to shining clean then refit making sure they are clean and tight, but not over tight. Any cable even if it is tight can develop corrosion within itself unseen to the naked eye and resistance or shorting/bridging can occur. IMHO, initial things to try and good luck. Will comment on the results if you wish. Pinning down the exact cause of the fault may take a bit of digging.

When you say wouldn't start do you mean didn't crank? When you said, then when it did the starter wouldn't disengage, the engine started but the starter motor was still turning engaged with the ring gear? i.e. making a hell of a noise. When you say, thankfully ive got a battery isolator in the car so could turn it off, turning the isolator off stopped the engine running and no electrics worked? When you said, the starter wouldn't disengage, you had turned the key in the switch to the ignition off position? When you say , After a few goes it started so I took it home to investigate, do you mean it didn't crank and then did crank and started using the key in the usual way? Just trying to get a full picture of events to make suggestions. I'm always in favour of doing full diagnosis to disgnose the fault before changing parts that may not be the problem or needed.

Did you manage to get the tea towel back in the kitchen before the Mrs noticed.

Is the car a MK5? if so I'll look in my crap Haynes manual then make suggestions. I presume all other electrics are working and the battery shows good voltage.