TimB

I had a similar episode with one of my cars, an Avenger sorry for swearing. Had to change the thermostat housing and after I changed it, it did the same symptoms. It stopped bubbling up when I took the thermostat out and it holds its water with no pressurising. Run it up hot and driven it, no pressurising. I’ve not checked the old thermostat or put a new one in yet, it’s a low use car, but suspect it was just a stubborn air lock somewhere in the system or faulty thermostat.

If you put the pressure cap on for longer, run it, does it warm up? There looks like there is quite a bit of rusty looking sediment in there, flush it out maybe. Does the water warm up when running with cap off? Just looking for more clues to make a suggestion.

It might just have an air lock somewhere in the system e.g the heater is empty. Before doing anything drastic I'd keep running it up for short periods, feel the hoses to make sure it is all warm and circulating, turn off, let it cool. Take off cap top up if needed then repeat, repeat, repeat. I'm not aware of cortinas having cooling system bleed points, so doing this may flush out any air lock (if that's the problem). Good luck

Well said that man.

Hope there is enough bad weather to ensure you finish them 😊. Very interested in seeing the finished job. 👍😎

Sorry to disagree, nice car yes but - guy making it talks like he has never been in a car before let alone a classic. Lots of Corsair history/spec inaccuracies in there too. Had to stop watching after 8 minutes got too frustrated.

Good looking car, saw it listed recently. Does the Huntsman variant make it mighty rare. What's the pipe coming from rear engine area to o/s inner wing? looks like original fitment. Breather filter maybe?

Old Fords never die, as they say

Hello, are these still available? ta. Tim

If you are ok to hold posting until the end of July I'll take them please. Ta. Tim

I have four 5.5J x 13 wolfrace wheels, 108 PCD I'm looking to offload. Open to offers and collection or courier would have to be sorted. Photos below. There are kerbed marks that do not go into the tyre seal area. Would benefit from professional refurbishment. Not sure what they are worth and buyer to pay for any delivery. Happy to answer questions or send more photos.

I have some parts to pass on, open to offers no matter how low, buyer pays postage. Photos of actual items below. Items - MK4 o/s/f indicator lens (I think). Got age marks, good as spare. 3 x front spot lamps - two are 145mm dia one is 155mm dia. Chrome bezel lamps (145mm) tested across a battery worked fine. Other with Ford marking has no bulb but all insides look good. All have age related marks. Weber Carb, I think it is a 32/38 as best I can see on number stamp plate. All levers work, flaps etc move but all stiff from storage. There are some nuts loose or missing. I suggest it needs taking apart, cleaning, checking, new gaskets and seals etc, or good for spares. All are of posting size/weight so will check the cost if anyone shows interested. Collection possible, Barnet, N London. Happy to answer any questions or send more photos. Ta. Tim

I measured anyway in case of use - Flange mounting face to end of cable stud 180mm Flange mounting face to centre square shaft 170mm Flange mounting face to end of bendix shaft 125mm Hole centres 145mm Armature body length 130mm (may be interchangeable, long shot). You'd probably find the inertia would match the mounting flange but the bendix shaft would foul on the bellhousing i.e. too long. Also flywheel ring gear teeth, although may be right number, engagement from the other direction may be bad. (all unknows). The armature if removed could be the same as another from a different starter, but how you find that out I don't know, ask your expert?

Pics below. As I remembered it is an inertia with a V4 flange and 9 tooth. Picture of the box shows pattern maker name and their part number which may help in search. The one you have looks like a pre engaged with a remote solenoid, interesting never seen that before. I presume the dog gear is sprung loaded and throws into mesh with the ring gear as soon as the motor rotates. Not sure what holds it in engagement because that was one of the functions of the solenoid fitted on the top of pre-engaged starters. So guess it works but the inclusion of the solenoid was an improvement development. I've not actually taken the starter out of my Corsair to see if the dog gear teeth are the same on an Auto (probably) and not sure when I will next pull it out of storage. If that ever happens and it is no use for me I'll let you know, but sorry again not much help at present. Hope you find one.

Is that car parts kept in the kitchen or late night work rations kept in the garage.

Don't know if this is of help. I have a spare for my 67 Corsair 1.7 V4 Auto. It looks the same flange fitting but doesn't have that housing on top. If my memory is good it looks like a standard inertia motor with a different flange for the V4. If it might help your search then I'll dig it out and post some photos. Sorry it's my spare and not for sale. Good luck.

Ok Ta. I always prefer standard, they do look better than the alloys, IMO. Nice car.

Who did you use for the wheel referb? I'm looking for a sensible priced good job to be done.

Fibre glass wings turned to dust maybe.

Ok sorry, hopefully they are. I was only highlighting them because in the past I've messed about trying to get callipers that look good externally to retract and the only solution was strip and reseal. If new pads are tight and make the disc bind it suggests piston sticking problem, and also give odd pedal feel. But I'll accept your assessment. Good luck.

The seals in the brake callipers are static in the housing and have a squarish profile. When the piston moves outward to press the pads the seal distorts and then when the pressure is released it should return to rest shape and allow the piston to return letting the pads sit in the off position with a gap between them and the disc so the discs turn freely. This also gives the disc brake self adjusting feature. Listening to the brakes were binding before the new pads wore down a bit suggests the calliper seals have gone hard and less flexible. This can give good brake operation but not letting the pistons retract to the rest, free play position. There is no other way of checking this other than taking the callipers off and stripping them and changing the seals. It's a common fault, especially on old classics that may have had periods of low mileage. They also clog up with brake dust from the pad wear, the dust seals leaking letting in water and road dirt etc. If you jack the car up, remove wheels and pads you should be able to carefully push the pistons right back into the housing (G clamp) to see if they retract fully. Before doing this make sure the brake fluid in the reservoir has enough space to rise as you push the pistons, if not syphon some out. (Don't want to squirt or leak it over the paintwork). Something to try, servo does sound to be working. Good luck

Not had the problem but yes WD40 or similar, squirt a bit on, let it soak in, run the engine to warm it up so things expand. Repeat, repeat, repeat and pray it loosens. Not sure if you have space to grip base, gently with stilsens after soaking to encourage it to move, certainly not a FGH moment. Good luck.

Follow on thought, just remembered. Don't know if the auto linkage is the same on a MK5 as a MK3 but on my MK5 the nylon bushes had disappeared/disintegrated making the selector a bit loose and sometimes it affected the connection with the inhibitor switch, causing it to not always engage the starter in P or D. If you look at my posts you can see the story and remedy. Good luck again

Diagnosing an intermittent fault can be a nightmare, especially when as shown in the video you never know if it will happen. Proper diagnosis is difficult if it doesn't do the fault when you check it. Before changing any parts I'd suggest trying various safe bypassing tests to see if the fault disappears e.g.as Craig suggested. However you can still not be 100% sure you have found the real fault. I'd start by one at a time removing starter circuit wires/cables and clean the connections and make sure they are suitably tight (not overtightening) If you do more than one at a time and it solves the problem you don't know which was at fault. This is a cranking fault, not a starting fault. It will be hard for you to sort this as you admit you are a layman mechanically, not your fault, but to put it in the hands of someone else may take ages and cost lots of £'s. Sorry not a lot of help, suggesting tactics more than diagnosing. Very difficult to diagnose without being hands on with the car. Not being negative but you may have more chance sorting it if it totally fails so fault can be diagnosed. Good luck.

Are they chrome effect screen inserts? but you are not sure which Cortina they fit?