WarpdSpazm

The lenses are clean. Because of the cracks they have a clear lens tape over them. I would love to just get a NOS set and put modern lighting behind them, and keep these old ones for if she goes back on track, but that's a little cost-prohibitive at this point.

Thanks for the idea. It's actually not just for racing. I haven't had her on the track since 2014. I'm looking right now to make her street legal so I can put tags on and drive her local. I have headlights sorted as 7" rounds are easy to come by since everything from Jeeps to Harleys use them. Old wrap around tails are not so easy. What I have on the car now will work as they are complete (though cracked) but the bulbs are near useless. I even put some LED bulbs in but not much brighter. For racing I'd just put an LED bar across the bottom of the window as that would be better visible, but I'd like to do a bit of proper resto at this point.

Hi all, Been a while. I've been searching the interwebs but coming up a bit dry. Has anyone found alternate options for tail lights on an MK2? My chrome frames are reasonable, but the lenses are all cracked. Further, even with some LED bulbs, the tails are rather dim. Being that my Tina is a racecar (and future restomod project) I'm wondering if there's anything out there that would fit with minor or no work on the body? Thanks in advance.

So I know the above is a tough one; any chance someone knows the standard (and maybe even the Lotus) damping rates of the front and rear shocks? In my search for replacements, I want to make sure I don't ruin the handling.

Hi guys, Been a while. Racing 'Tina was put on hold for some time when we found a few major issues that needed to be addressed; then life got in the way. I'm not back at it and since we are pulling the motor, trans and rear axle, and installing new TCAs, I thought this would be a good time to look at suspension. Since we enduro race and have budget caps, I'm looking to find more easily and affordably source-able parts. Since I've read around here that Volvo struts could work with some mods upfront I was wondering if anything similar works in the rear. Gaz, while nice are pricey and not something I can pick up at a local parts store on Saturday at the track. A few things about the car. 1. She's lowered. The previous owner/racer put a set of 70's mustang cut spring upfront to lower and stiffen her up. The rear leafs were de-arched to lower. 2. Strut inserts and rear shocks look like originals. 3. Stock mounting points front and rear still. The boys at Dave Bean told me that if I rotate the tops and drill 3 new bolt holes, I can get an extra degree of camber in the front "for free." Haven't yet, but looking to do that with this round of work. Thanks in advance for any input and happy to answer an clarifying questions. Ray

The new TCA; noting it's made in Taiwan, are you considering it inferior to OEM arms? Part BJ142; that looks like just a ball joint replacement. I was lead to believe they were integral to the TCA and I'd need to replace the setup. Was I misinformed? I could run an adjustable setup, I just don't want to go that far with the car. Dave Bean gave me steps to add 1 additional degree of camber to the car, and that will be sufficient for our racing needs. DBE also have a set of Koni adjustable shocks for the front, which is what I'm planning to pick up and we do the front end. The car is already lowered. I was told the front springs are front a 1970 v6 mustang (and were cut). so it's low and stiff. Job requirements have me unable to do much on the car for a while. She'll be off the track for the remainder of the year, so I will have time to figure all of this out.

And speaking of shocks... Anyone have a good suggestion for the fronts? Anything for the front seems to be hen's teeth to find. I see KYB 665028 on the Rockauto.com site (assuming they are able to be had). Would like to put a new pair in of course Burton doesn't show anything and KYB doesn't show this part on their euro site anymore, so I'm assuming its discontinued and NOS is all that's left.

You hit it MLI... Ball joint is done. Need to source new arms. Also shock on front left is blown as well. Looks like a front end job is in my future. I found these over on NewFord parts centre. They are a bit pricey, but are the good and correct to use? New TCA Is there another set that anyone may suggest?

Thanks loopy, for the suggestion, I had a fellow racer suggest the same thing. I do need to find a spot I can run the car without the rod in. Local streets by me aren't ideal and police aren't "understanding" in this area. Likely try this one at the track next sunday! The slave is close to our exhaust, and I am running Motul RBF600 fluid to try and help manage heat (as well as having a heat shield on the cylinder casing). I can start the car, put her in gear and get slip right away, so I don't think it's a fluid heating issue. I did play with the master a bit last weekend it felt a bit hung up and after cleaning and re-installing it I had to adjust the rod out a bit, to be able to release the clutch and get her in gear. With one run around the block i didn't notice slip like before, but I only have a long enough road to run out second gear, not 3rd or 4th... Again, looking like Sunday track day will be the big test. Thanks RonV for the comment about the bearing. I did not change mine, and so wear and play in it could be a factor. I haven't checked that yet. added to the list!

Thanks for the info. I will get in there with our small scope camera and see if there's a clearance issue. From Dave Bean, they suggested I check the master brake cyl and see if it's returning fully or if it's keeping some pressure in the fluid. Going to look into both these this weekend.

Thanks for the suggestions. I will take a look at all of those and hopefully find it to be one we can fix with less grief. New engine is is stout, We had it running very rich the first race because I was concerned about detonation with the high compression. (Static CR was looking 14:1). She had a little bog 3,000-3,500 (exiting some corners) but man did she go once over that! We were faster than a lot of V6s. We found that the dynamic CR is only 11.5:1 thanks to the cam, so while we are also going up to 112 Octane fuel for safety, We have begun to lean out the tune some. Once we address the clutch slipping issue, we should be ready to run strong. Also, We will be installing a set of 4.10 gears. My 3.90's are in bad shape (knife edged and stepped), and the car came with a near new set of 4.10's, so I can't wait to see the looks of the 4cyl mustangs and Dodge Daytona drivers when we pull on them out of the corners. I love this little car, even when she's being a royal pain.

So I'm not sure how it happened, but I have visibly more neg camber in the driver side than pass after our last race. Having not yet done anything to the suspension/steering since picking up the car, I'm not sure where it may have gone wrong... I'm guessing something has worn out (bushing?) or worse broke? The result is showing as excessive tire wear on the inner treads. Being as I have 5 weeks to my next race, I was hoping to save a little time fumbling around and see if you fine folks may know some likely spots to check first?

Hi all, Been a while. In a bit of a jam with our next race 5 weeks away. Hoping someone might have some ideas as to why I may be suffering from Clutch slip in my mk2. from Dave Bean Engineering, I picked up a "race style" clutch disc (no springs on it) and a standard OEM pressure plate. Looks like the LUK unit. When we pulled the old bits out the plate was clearly worn and a finger was broken off. figured that explained our slipping issues last season. However, we had slip yesterday and after looking at the slave cylinder and swapping it (piston was not returning in the first one well) it's still slipping. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

Now I get it! When I replied before, I was on my mobile phone so did not see your pic.... yeah, maybe a bit less wind resistance with your setup!

Only had front and rear screens. Doors and rear quarters were removed. =) We'll go a bit faster once we lean out the tune and replace the seized bearings in the axle... Well the ones that didn't already explode... See my FB page for those photos.