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waltermk3

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Everything posted by waltermk3

  1. Have to agree with Neil. I got some Sunset Red made to the code and it it didn't match perfectly. Possible fading. The factor's measuring machine matched it bang on
  2. Here is a photo of an original Pinto exhaust manifold off a MK3 GT. At least this will let you compare. Mine was rotten at the bottom and I had new one made by John Ashley. Mild steel the stainless from there back
  3. What I thought to be the original horn on my MK3 1600 GT was a small single vibrating plate type which was embarrassing. I replaced it with 2 GM windtones. What horns would the 1600 GT have originally been fitted with?
  4. Is there any way of determining the build date of my MK3. I can't see it on the VIN plate unless the VIN number can be interpreted. Or is it somewhere or nowhere? Thanks
  5. Well I've actually sold my Cortina 16oo GT.  Some may have seen it advertised on here. I'll be maintaining my presence on here for the forseeable future as I may have an answer to somebodies question. Just my luck that the my buyer is in Australia. He paid a lot of money to have the car professionally inspected and for him to be able to negotiate on his behalf A bit like Wayne Carini but with really good engineering knowledge. I was impressed. I have even been paid and the buyer is paying for door to door transport. The sticking point now I have learnt is the bureaucracy of the Australian authorities regarding an import permit. They have questioned a small oil drip at the back of the gear box. If it's wiped it won't show again for ages. A bit different from my Midget's A series engine. I also have to have an asbestos check done. Not sure how this will turn out. If anyone has had any experience of this awful exercise I would appreciate your help

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    1. SusanButcher

      SusanButcher

      I didn't have any trouble like that when brought in my Corsair in. That was 2009, and the only import requirement was a steam clean to kill off any nasty Old World organisms that had hitched a ride to Australia. (But they missed the empty wasp nest under the dash!) The Cortina's a more recent car, so I guess you'd come up against the Australian Design Rules when importing, but surely oil leaks are the business of the people who do the roadworthy testing for registration once the car's arrived?

  6. Thanks for your wishes. What a difference a K makes. OK to O!. A thousand times different, but I hope members will understand
  7. I have had this lovely GT for 8 years now but it is not seeing much use these days and needs to be enjoyed by a someone else. The car was stored off the road for 23 years until 2012 when I purchased it off the bloke who had brought it out of storage, spent a lot of time and money on new wings and parts. Once with me I removed the head and renewed the worn cam shaft (Pinto Engine), replaced the oil spray bar and fitted a new cam belt. Whilst the head was off I had hardened valve seats fitted. It has electronic ignition and 5 speed Type 9 gearbox fitted. I fitted inertia seat belts front and rear I renewed the GT freeflow exhaust manifold with a replacement made by John Ashley and had it aluminised. The exhaust from there back was replaced by a Longlife stainless system. The vinyl roof had been replaced by the previous owner but I was not happy with some bubbling. I had it done again by a professional auto trimmer. Front and rear windscreens come out for this. I located the correct Ford vinyl with which to have the job done and it is much admired. The mileage quoted is what is showing on the odometer and is not guaranteed. There is no rust to the best of my knowledge and just look at the photos for condition I checked what price these were going for and was shocked to see 3 GT's varying between £19k and £24K. I thought, no way. I have put on that classified £17 and open to offers but I will take a more realistic offer from forum members
  8. Well I've bitten the bullet and placed a classified on carandclassic. Possibly a bit optimistic. I bit like a reverse auction as I have put Offers Invited. I'll see what happens
  9. That's very thought provoking thought as it is a lovely looking car. On the other hand I have had other lovely cars which have come and gone and I would like to have a tinker again. If I do sell I'm unsure what price to ask. The Practical Classics guide say £9500 but try and find a GT for that in the real world. There are a couple of stunners on the web at the moment wanting an unbelievable £24k and £19K but open to offers. This is such a spread it's difficult to know where to pitch mine if I go ahead. Maybe an auction would find the true value but I would definitely put a starting price on (ebay) or a reserve at an auction house
  10. Whatever size you go for I would definitely have the same size all round.
  11. Not sure what advantage you would have by putting 175 on the rears with 165's on the front. I don't think you'd notice the difference and you would loose the flexibility of moving the wheels and spare around and in case of puncture
  12. Hi. I've had my Cortina 1600GT for 8 years now and it's not getting much use. I know we are all limited for traveling at the moment but any chance do get I'm out in the MX5. So I have been pondering whether or not to move it on. If I do sell what sort of money should I be expecting? I thought of the site carandclassic which look at every day, or ther's ebay or an auction. What do member think?
  13. I'd stick with the original size all round. The Ford ride engineers would have matched up ride, handling and steering. Also you will have the advantage of the lighter steering, ability to move wheels around the car including the spare. 165 is plenty wide enough for the light MK2. I think the tyres were 165 x 13. Aspect ratios weren't quoted then but they would 80 or 82. But your choice at the end of the day. Like you are don't understand the current fashion for larger wheels and skinny tyres. They ruin ride, wear quicker, damage more easily along with wheel damage. Can't see the point unless you are on a race track. I have 185 x 13 70 on my MK3 but it is a heavier car I think but still light by today's standards. The MK3 also came with 165 as standard but 185 70 x13 were optional on the GT which mine is. I have had to increase the pressure to make the steering acceptable. I would have been OK with the 165's. Hope this helps but it is only one opinion
  14. Agree with Tibbs. It was better before. Don't mind change if it is for the better. Not for the sake of it
  15. Didn't know Brian was based in Malta. He was asking about Aldridge and East Kent. Maybe Middlesbrough is no further away
  16. I made the same mistake. The correct box is 71 BG 14A 067 CB. Cleaning wasn't an option for me as the terminal had corroded through
  17. Not sure where you're based but My MK3 was done at Auto Trimmers in Middlesbrough. I had to pay for the front and rear screen to come out as well. I rejected the material they were going to use and tracked down the original at E Segal Motor Triming in Salford. They sent the required length to Auto Trimmers.
  18. I also use 20w-50 but the handbook also recommends down to 10w-30 which also covers our climate range. Oils from 1969 with the same viscosity numbers as modern oils are the same thickness. Modern engines which take 5w or even 0w are obviously thinner and what you may be used to pouring. Valvoiline 20w-50 Racing is probably the best but cheaper oils are satisfactory for Pintos if you are not racing. I agree with all above that you should check earths but also have your battery load tested. I did this recently and needed a new one. Put in largest Platinum recommended. What a difference. Hopefully, for your pocket, it will be bad earth. Best of luck
  19. Started Cortina today after several weeks. Nearly didn't start. Usually takes a few turns after a rest to pull the petrol up but today was worse. When it eventually caught, just, I noticed it wouldn't run without me revving. Usually the revs are higher initially as auto choke works. Took air filter off and can't see anything wrong but ten I don't really know what to look for. Sprayed around the auto linkage with WD40. Is there a routine I can go through to see what maybe wrong?
  20. Are you checking it with the original cigarette lighter or with another charger plug? If using non original I found that the Ford unit is deeper and won't contact later plugs
  21. POR15 is a pain to deal with and clean up. Also you need to buy the small tins as the bigger tin would then need piercing at the side after the lid welds itself on. I wont be buying any more. Oh, and you have to use their pre treatment or it peels off. I didn't think it was flexible. It goes off like stone. On an applications like this out of sight I use black chassis paint. Brush on. Easy clean up in white spirit and it stays gloss. Frosts or similar.
  22. Not my MK3 this time which has an alternator but a friend's car with dynamo. Not charging. Checked dynamo uninstalled and worked as a motor from a battery. Installed and F and D bridged got voltage of 16v when engine running. When connected to regulator, nothing. Connected to regulator with F and d bridged it the charged for a while with ignition light going out but then stopped. Any ideas what to check next? thanks
  23. When you are looking for a classic car, miles away doesn't matter. You can't pop down your dealership. You have to be prepared to travel
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