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LagoonBlue last won the day on May 7

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About LagoonBlue

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    Cortina MkII

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  1. Went shopping again.. 160€ for the lot. Not great, not terrible. Anyways, better than ebay prices I am not fully happy with my current wings and even though these are in about 4 out of 10 condition they should give me options if that is something i choose to do. Hinges i will use for sure, all seem to be in usable condition. Since these came from a 4 door shell the back hinges would presumably be in better nick. My current hinges have been "bolt modded" since they were very loose. Shiny bits are in fair condition, rear-view mirror not so much but at least i now know what it should look like. Jack handle seems to be from an Anglia, no idea where the jack comes from but certainly not a Cortina (handle does not fit the jack). Some other bits and bobs there also, will have to give them a closer look later on. Altogether an ok haul, as parts seem to be getting harder to find i just had to snap them up. I guess this grille cover is an oddity to most of you. No FINIS code but feels like an official Ford item I know that some cars were fitted with roller blinders between the radiator and grille (my parts car had remains of such) but maybe this was an option for milder climates. Not in the best shape and i have no use for it but was free for the taking..
  2. Sorry again for the recent lack of updates. Among other things i have been busy on getting my bike back on the road. Has been a learning experience to say the least. Fear not, i am not going to turn this thread into a blog about crappy eastern block bikes just couple pointers that will help me later on with the Cortina. But first couple new acquisitions; Telescoping gauges for checking bores and such. Cheap set but good enough for my use. Illustrated parts list, not required but nice to have. 70€ +shipping so on the pricey side but could not help my self So, my MZ's big end crank bearings were shot and i took the engine to bits last year. I had the cylinder rebored and honed in a neighboring town. Reasonable prices, good quality and good reputation and they seemed to be able and willing to do the work on my Cortinas engine when the time comes. Checking that my new crank survived the shipping (it did, cheaper to buy a new one than fix the old). I made this jig large enough to be able to fit Cortinas transmission shafts etc. Since this pic was taken i got a proper dial stand. Wont stick to aluminium though so i will need to make an adapter. Ok, so now i have parts in hand and workshop manual in front of me, monkey see monkey do. What could go wrong, eh? First i put the crank in wrong way around Though that the cross section pic was from the front when it was from the back.. I absolutely hate shrink fitting parts. No room for errors/fumbling about. Took three tries.. Ps. Hylomar gasket/jointing compound removes nicely with paint and gasket remover spray. Kind of obvious really when you think about it. My bargain basement torque wrench is not to be trusted for anything below 100Nm (or above for that matter). Two broken head studs.. My itsy bitsy electric rattle gun will happily break a 7mm bolt. Good luck finding the said 7x105mm 1mm thread pitch bolt locally. Temporary fix, new bolt already ordered. So now i have the thing more or less back together, have spark, fuel and squeeze but no bang even when kicking till blue in the face After a nights sleep i found out that the plastic frame holding the metal part on the points had melted throwing the timing way off. Cheap repro parts are cheap for a reason.. Well at least i hope that is the cause, i have ordered new parts from Germany but they will take ages to arrive as seems to be the norm these days. And the biggest lesson i learnt was that do not set a definite will-be-done-by date. Only leads to unnecessary frustration when it WILL not be ready in time. Just go easy, one step at a time and if something is not feeling right stop and think. On the same note, rest of the work on the Cortinas bodyshell is going to be postponed to somewhere around fall. The bodywork guy is doing upgrades to his shop (new ovens and the like). If it means a better result i am all for it. Plenty of other stuff to do on the meanwhile.
  3. Thanks! Oh well, bound to be of use to someone else so no harm done. I did not realise that these came in so many flavours. I will check if the ally tag is still legible, that should have all the specs in it.
  4. Thank you! Do not know about the scientist part but definitely mad Bought me my (i think) fifth rear axle.. Could not help myself, was only 50€ This one had most of the gubbins left in it and the diff does not seem to have acres of backlash. I am actually happy that there was only one drum left, took me half an hour and my second largest hammer to get this removed. I harvested rest of the small parts for safe keeping. Something to add to my list is to go through all of these and check what gear ratios they have. I quess that the easiest way is to count the turns?
  5. Finally springtime for LagoonBlue! Though it is raining sleet right now but had couple tolerable days to complete a project i started late last year. I have wanted a parts cleaner for sometime now but why buy something when i can make my own for twice the price That said, mine has couple added features not found on the usual cheapos. On to the pics; Cleaning fluid lives on the reservoir pot in the middle with a coarse screen filter at the outlet where it is piped to a standard oil filter (biggest i could find on a clearance sale). Drain is located at the low spot. From filter it goes to a sealed magnet drive pump and onto a heat exchanger unit filled with coolant (the white box) which has two 300W lab grade immersion heaters and a 240 series Volvo heater core. From the heater core cleaning fluid goes to bypass and flow valves, on normal operation flow is full on and amount of fluid is controlled by the bypass valve. Sparky bits be here. Inside the DIN box is 6A breaker, RCD and contactor which is controlled by the E-Stop. Smaller box houses switches for heaters and the pump. From the backside you can see the quick release for the reservoir pot. Overall capacity when fully primed is about 6-7 Litres. Lid opened and screen that usually sits on the sink. I can easily change nozzles via the pneumatic fitting. And a quick test run with some random bike part. Works like a treat Now to the sketchy part.. I am using kerosene heater fuel as a cleaning fluid which works really good for oily dirt, is cheap and readily available but is (no surprises here) somewhat flammable. So no smoking when using the thing, though that would be hard to do with an (at minimum) A2 rated mask which is a must since the stuff can do some serious harm if inhaled. Not especially explosive so that's a plus. Time will tell how well the hoses will fare, at least there is no ethanol in the mix. I might add a work light and some exterior panels later on, works good enough for now. Drill and tap set for the oil filter was eye wateringly expensive plus i had to buy valves and some pipe connectors but rest of the bits i scrounged from my vast horde. I think this will get a fair bit of use when i start messing with my engine parts. Next up little work on the Cortina itself, i promise
  6. Hi Could you email me using peteharvey1969@phd-design-etchings.co.uk please I have something to send you that I have been working on that may be useful to you?



    1. LagoonBlue


      E-Mail sent from my Gmail, if it does not show please check your spam folder.

  7. Thank you! Ah, i forgot about the steering lock. It became mandatory in Finland from 1968 onwards and i suspect in other parts of the EEC too. My '85 Mazda 626 also has locks that can be opened with anything that fits in the hole, though to be fair pretty much all car locks in general are nothing to write home about. Electronic immobilizer (mandatory in Finland since '98) helps a bit but locks only keep the honest people away. There will be some mods and shenanigans hidden on mine Those are easy to add when refurbishing the wire harness plus something like a HF tracker is always a good investment, can't rely on just GPS these days. Not that theft is a huge issue around here parts but being a bit paranoid does not hurt
  8. Thanks, i think i will but luckily i am not in any rush to do so. Better to have a little breather in the meanwhile. I want to be bored again, it's been a long time since i last was On the Cortina side of things; farming out the remaining work on the bodyshell will still happen but needs to be bumped to somewhere around Q1 or 2 of 2021, too many irons on the fire right now. Anyhow, i did get a nice part in the mail today. It's a boot lock & a pair of keys in near mint condition. No, the keys are not melted, i blurred them on purpose Not that it matters since the VIN is right there: BA90HA62563 which decodes to; Ford of Britain Dagenham 2 Door Standard March 1968 so should fit my '68 Deluxe like a treat. Was only 15€ +10€ for P&P, a bargain at twice the price. I know that many cars of this era had the one key system, you know: one key for the door, one for the ignition, one or the boot, one for the glovebox and one for the gas cap But how is it supposed to be on MK2's? I think it's doors and boot with the same key, Ignition would be it's own and gas cap also if fitted? So two to three keys in total. If so i will need to have the door locks recored (those need to be serviced anyway so not a big deal).
  9. Industrial electronics, testers etc. that sort of stuff. Nothing for the retail market. I was the repair department though lately mostly assembling products and whatever else the boss told to
  10. Good news everyone! I lost my job and can soon devote more of my time on the project. Guess i should go into details a bit more . The last chapter started three years ago when the company was taken over by Enics, a competitor of ours. As feared our new evil overlords shuttered manufacturing operations at the three year mark, as it has previously done with most of it's other purchases. Design functions relocated to another city but will likely share our fate somewhere along the line. The news came 7 months ago, just as first reports of some sort of new flue were starting to emerge from China. Since i had 12 years on the company my notice was six months which was extended by a month to get things wrapped up. When i joined the production staff was in the hundreds, now just four of us were left in the end.. Yesterday was our last day on the job; Proper attire for the times. Btw. Cigar is Partagas Serie P No.2 which i can heartily recommend to affectionates. Since the factory had been running from the seventies the amount of accumulated junk was staggering, a good portion of that plus a third or so of the remaining component stock i bought (cheaply) and hauled to storage which explains the lack of recent updates on this thread. Most i can "refine" and sell as scarp but some (tools etc.) require a bit of spit and polish to sell on. Right now i need to sort and catalogue components to get quotes and ultimately more space at the garage, a fairly big job in itself. After this i can really get back on the Cortina again. Luckily being a thrifty bugger i have enough funds put aside to take a breather of sorts before even needing to think on getting another job, these not being ideal times for job hunting obviously. Might even be my own master in the future, who knows.. Also luckily i had grown to hate my job during the last few years, so nothing of value was lost to me (colleagues excepted). On the contrary, now i am finally free!
  11. Thank you all! Well, i might be able to do the job myself eventually through trial and error but even if i had the skills i do not have the proper facilities. Paint is maybe the most important part on a restoration, it's right out there in the plain view. Though of course mechanical bits are equally important too, like on my bike.. Looks good outwards but had a rattling noise when running. I took the mug off yesterday and found generous amount of radial play on the con rods big end (roller bearing or journal worn) Changing a crank on these is a bugger of a job but luckily parts are available and affordable. Might be something for the winter months.
  12. Thank you! Let's hope it's not an oncoming train Thanks! After offering up the LH wing it became apparent that the headlight bucket was ~10mm too far forward. Must have warped when i welded it ages ago. Not too big of a job to fix, after drilling out couple plug welds i gently pulled it back to it's correct position and welded it back on. This time with careful measurements before AND after. Timing belt came handy again for strapping the come along to A-pillar. After that i prepped the wings. More on later why i did it at this stage. Paint was removed with poly strip wheel, surface rust and pits sand blasted, same areas treated with phosphoric acid (dark blotches), everything roughed all over with coarse scotch-brite, cleaned with silicone remover and.. shot with 2 pack epoxy primer. Note the fourth ceiling on my tent, this time around i invested on a proper PVC tarp with 5 year warranty. Back wall i will sort before winter (probably). So why paint the wings now even before they are banged back in to shape? In part to shield them from rust, and because i will have prep & paint done by a pro. I am rubbish when it comes to block sanding etc. but that's ok, a man's gotta know his limitations. And there is fair amount to be done; but certainly doable. Since wings and some other places will need a little bit of massaging with hammer and dolly and most likely doors and wings welding to get the gaps right (wings are now temporarily in place with sheet metal screws) any old paint shop will not do. I have couple good referrals lined up with local guys that are well regarded and willing to take it on. This being a big job it will happen around fall at earliest but that's fine by me, no need to rush. Of course everything will be put on writing with time tables and rough budget agreed before any work starts. And hey, no more rot
  13. In order to start work on fitting the wings on the chassis i needed to spin it around in the garage. Sounds simple enough but took a lot of mucking about since the place is currently packed full of stuff from floor to ceiling. Made this portable winch to help move the chassis as wheels under it roll rather poorly on the gravel and over the door jambs. It can be mounted to a tow hitch (there is a larger 50mm hole under the flap) but for this job i drilled couple holes with screws and plugs through an plank to the floor at back of the garage and looped a discarded timing belt between plank and the winch. Those timing belts can handle quite a load, good for tinkering. Next step will be fitting the filler panels. Doors should be fairly well lined up so hopefully i do not need to touch them at this stage. After that the real work on installing the wings and ironing them smooth can begin.
  14. Thank you! Best practice would be to use lead but i'm rubbish with tinning.. That said, all the welds that can be reached from both sides are welded on both sides where necessary so there is nary a pinhole in sight. Plus i have made a habit of running over the welds with a fresh wire brush to knock off any "loosies" A quality 2 pack epoxy primer should suffice. Box sections will be cavity waxed and all lap joints seam sealed as from factory.
  15. Almost there.. I had to make a new rear bottom corner from scratch. Next i will have to repair the rear edge as it's got a shallow dent on it (could be due to a failed door limiter) and sort out all the spot weld areas. Today i remembered to check on the parts that i painted with two-pack-in-a-can some weeks ago. Seems ok to me, could hardly make a mark with a finger nail. I think i will paint all the ancillaries in the engine room with it. Expensive but very convenient to use. I should be able to pick up the pace after next week when my vacation starts
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