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LagoonBlue last won the day on July 6

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About LagoonBlue

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    Cortina MkII

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  1. Thank you! I try my best. Ghosted by yet another paint shop If ya don't want the job just say so, can't be that hard. All the same as there is now a decent chance that I can get my first choice to do the car. Might take a while to secure a slot as the guy does good work and is hobbyist friendly. Whilst that is brewing I have been keeping myself busy on other bits and bobs. Couple things are waiting on supplies so I rummaged my "to do" shelves and spotted an intake manifold in need of some TLC. Right off the bat I managed to break off the coolant hose adapter into the manifold but after a good while of faffing about managed to dig out the remains and run a tap in the bore. This was the older type angled adapter that can not be turned with a socket and it was truly stuck in there. Luckily I had a spare adapter so no real harm done in the end. Next I got me one of these cheap soda blasting things; Decent enough results, halfway done here; Was something new to try out, has it's pros and cons. +Does not hurt aluminium +Reaches corners that brush will not +Any residue can be washed off, water soluble +/-Makes a mess, I used my blasting cabinet so not an issue for me -Does not work on rust -Media is one time use only -Slow process (at least with this setup) Used close to half of the 5 l jug but some was lost on experimenting and getting the settings right. Will not be doing any bigger job than this manifold but might be ideal on carburettors and other delicate small things. Spots like this just look too ugly Little better.. Not too smooth though, something to do with laminar flow and condensing fuel drips 0.20mm gap in the middle. Might need to be trued, I will have machine shop take a look next time I am there. I could stick some 600 grit on the stone and have at it but that's not really the proper way.
  2. It's not over restoring if it's back to stock, I thought whilst re-bluing my rear ashtray retaining clips To be fair this was mainly to test on how the stuff works. Meant for things that go bang but should also work on cold bluing screws etc. Yet another batch of small bits painted; This time around some seat brackets and the correct type of heater box. Seat brackets I hung on to a frame from both ends, keeps them from flapping about whilst painting. My DIY heater resistor. I went with 3Ohms 50W resistor since I had couple in stock. Glad that I did since even this gets rather toasty in use. Hopefully should still fit, if memory serves me correct there should be enough room under the dash. If not I will make it fit And finally the heater box back in one piece. This was quite a puzzle to assemble, I think I got everything in the right place (except the wire from fan to resistor which should go on the right side terminal, got to remember to fix that). Though I could of have adapted my series 2 heater matrix to work on this box I had a fairly decent earlier thicker type, only had to clean insides of it with vinegar since it was chock full of calcium deposits (which is why one should mix the coolant only with distilled water). I replaced flap gaskets and matrix spacers with EPDM, that stuff should not turn into dust quite so fast as the original foam. For sealing the lid and duct passthroughs I used Sika 710 Butyl sealant. Stays flexible and allows dismantling.
  3. Yup, I always forget that domestic models had the dash mounted ignition switch. Steering lock (or equivalent anti-theft device) became mandatory in Finland at 1968.
  4. Thank you! Good to know on the keys, I have enough stuff on my keyring already so if I can have all the locks work on just one key it would be all the better.
  5. Still nothing meaningful to report on the bodywork side of things, every place is currently at a standstill due to vacation season.. Nevertheless will not stop me doing other stuff in the meantime. My latest finds; Roll of gasket paper, made in England so should work on the Cortina Restoration manual, charmingly outdated but still has some good nuggets of information. Actually had this on loan from the library years ago so knew to snap it right up when I saw it offered for a tenner . Super hard anti-roll bar poly bushes. Most likely I will not use these but were cheap enough to get just in case. And last but not least a set of new old stock Burton FP210 tappets. These are the earlier narrower type, I already have a set but those might be the later thicker type. Were at a car boot sale close by and cheaper than from Burtons so why not have a spare set. I restored a series 2 plastic heater box ages ago but since then I have found enough bits to fix up a proper tin box. But as is typical; Spot the difference? It's the tubes that sprout out from the sides (18K280/1). Those have flaps operated by cables coming from the dash. The box that I had painted does not have the provisions for flap assemblies, instead it connected directly to accordion tubes. Luckily I still had my original box, though I had to change the four mounting brackets on the corners from a donor box because there were some extra holes drilled in them. After that i sand blasted and primed it. I will let it cure for a week or two and paint it together with some other bits. Better that I caught this now rather than later. Before I moved the series 2 box to storage I measured the resistor on it (looks like a spring). For such a low resistance it is best to do a 4 wire measurement. And the survey says; Let's call it 2 Ohms. Blower motor operating current is 3.5A in free air and stall current is 8A from a supply of around 12.4V. I do not have an original resistor for series 1 box (they were prone to failure) but 3 Ohms rated at least 10W seems to be the ticket, though I would rather use a 20W or so resistor to err on the side of caution.
  6. About time that I put something back together. Parts waiting for assembly. Bump stop/dust gaiters not in the greatest shape but are original FoMoCo parts and will still do the job. These are the instructions that came with my NOS strut inserts. There are couple points that are not in the workshop manual or Haynes repair manual, first is to fill the remaining space between insert and tube with engine oil to prevent corrosion and the second is that "special" nut should not bottom out when tightened. Topping off with oil. For ease of handling I bolted the strut on top of a scrap rotor. And then the problems started "special" nuts that I had were not correct, they bottomed and the insert was left rattling in the tube, not good. A few choice words and closer look later I deduced that correct nuts must have come with the inserts back in the day but mine were of course missing. Luckily I found one nut from my pile of parts that was the correct size for these exact inserts, that gave me the dimensions I needed; That still left me one nut short of a pair (heh..) so I modified one of the misfits. Using a poverty lathe (drill and angle grinder) I machined a washer and a small piece of tube to press fit inside the nut. After that filed it level not forgetting to add a chamfered edge in the center to allow for strut inserts seal. After that diversion I could continue with the assembly; Pair of assembled struts Even though it was not mentioned in the instructions I added Loctite to the troublesome "special" nuts. Top nut can be torqued to correct spec only after installation. Couple small nicks to touch up on the paint work tomorrow courtesy of my crappy "widow maker" spring compressors and I can cross these off my list.
  7. Ever paint a bunch of parts and after the fact find out that you forgot that one little pesky washer? Do not succumb to despair, instead dust off the Worlds Cheapest Airbrush™, source a graduated syringe and load up the required amount of paint straight from the can. Suck up the hardener and thinner from a cup as to not contaminate the hardener jug or use a different syringe. Mix thoroughly and shoot the part with paint. Experiment with different speeds and/or settings to get the desired thickness. Saves on paint and cleaning the airbrush is heaps easier compared to full size gun. Will also work for those little spots that you missed because it was too dark/bright, be prepared to buff out the overspray though.
  8. No worries I would say that you made the right choice, a little too far gone.
  9. A friend came to visit with his latest acquisition; -72 Morris Marina 1.8 Super DeLuxe. 1.8L Big Block. Fun little car, this one is a light rolling restoration. Better than their reputation warrants, yes the front suspension is quite peculiar in these early cars and brakes are not the greatest but still going strong after 50 years. And remember that Roy Haynes designed this after MK2 Cortina so can't be all bad. Just keep it hidden from Jeremy Clarkson There were some screw holes from long gone speaker pods in my kick panels. To make them at least a bit less noticeable I plastic welded the holes shut. Usually I snip a sliver of material from somewhere that will be hidden but in this case I had a scrap kick panel to nick it from, needs to be the same material for this to work properly. Using a temperature controlled soldering iron helps a lot. I filled the holes from the backside to make less of an mess, very similar process to TIG welding. Will stink, try not to inhale the fumes too much. And done, still visible but no more holes so already a million times better. If really needed these cold be textured to make the fix almost disappear but these are out of the sight line under the dash so plenty good enough.
  10. Thank You! Yet another parts haul.. I certainly have enough bits already but for a fair (for today's market) price of 45€ how can I say no Especially interesting to me were those rubber bumpers for the doors. Up and middle in the pic. Came from here; and here; No idea what happened to my original ones but I am (almost) fairly sure that they were missing when I got the car, the holes are there. Lower bumpers did came off quite easily so might have fallen decades ago. I checked the parts book and sure enough these do have parts numbers; Bumper (door upper) right 3014E-7023032-A ,left 3014E-7023033-A Bumper (front door lower) 3014E-732033-A Upper bumper mounting screws are a special type with a tall-ish barrel shaped head.
  11. Still no real progress on the bodywork, I have an estimation lined up for next week so fingers crossed those guys are up for a challenge. In the meantime I have done lots of small stuff and here is one of them. Since one of the TCA's was bent I was suspicious of the spindle arms (3014E-3130-B and 3014E-3131-B) so decided to check them and was I glad that I did. One was bent upward by about 3mm. Luckily I have spares, so gathered them all in one pile and after wirewheeling the reference surfaces clean did some measuring. Surface plate optional but smoke 'em if you got 'em, right 24-25mm from here to plate. 90-91° 93-94° View from top down, angles measured in parallel to bolt holes. That should be suffice, hard to see how these could be out of whack without effect to measured points. I also did some visual comparison side by side and stacked top to top. Luckily my best ones were also the least rusted so I protected the tapers and after that sandblasted and primed them. Added to my growing heap of bits to paint black.
  12. To work on the rear valance I dragged the car out into the sun; Really not that bad, weird how issues get blown over proportion in ones head over time. Just to make sure I shoveled some filler on it to see how much it would take, actually not much at all. Shot with filler primer to protect the metal. Will still need some work but should come up ok. Looks that I do not need to use my NOS valance after all, would of been fairly big job to change. This was also my first time trying out some Mirka mesh type sanding paper that my friend recommended to me. Yes, it's a bit more costly than the regular stuff but well worth it. Also remembered to pin the hinges. First I thought about using 3,5mm roll pins but those would of been hollow so instead I used precision ground 4mm alignment pins that i found in my junk drawer. Easy to install and punch out when needed. Of course the hinges and backing plates are now "paired" and can not be switched around willy nilly.
  13. Thank you! Takes it's time but well worth it. Right hand side gaps came out actually fairly good, except this bit; Lower edge too narrow. Much better after a quick cut and weld. Lines up nicely. I am happy with that, must remember to pin the hinges (Drill small holes through hinges and A-pillar,two pins per hinge) so that removing and reinstalling doors will be easier in the future. I predict lots of this in the near future; Not a sack of potatoes but will definitely need some attention. And naturally there is sound deadening right where a need to use a dolly. Comes off easily by warming up with heat gun and using an oscillating multitool thingy with a smooth edged blade. Does not cause any damage to metal. But first I need some practice in a less conspicuous spot. Engine bay will do nicely, some small dings and patch seams to hide. Wings are on with self tappers for now and will be welded later.
  14. Received today my new track control arms from the other side of the globe; Seem decent enough, because ball joint is a different design the dust boot (if you can even call it that) looks a little iffy but with proper care should not be a problem. Even came with grease nipples. Not that there are much options anyway, NOS TCA's come up for sale every now and then but can be quite pricey. However these were not free either; Parts 133,77£ Shipping 28,83£ Customs 53,85£ Finnish post handling fee 2,49£ -------------------------------------------------- Total 218,94£ One more thing to cross of the list so that's good. I should have new inner bushings that fit these. After checking some diagonals I found out that one edge of the front valance needed to be ~10mm forward; Small relief cut. Sorted. Took a lot of massaging but got left hand gaps to a somewhat tolerable state. Very awkward job to do with only two hands. Pair of welding magnets and pieces of allthread with wide washers at the end held the door in place long enough for me to tighten the screws. About as good as I can get it. Wing might shift a bit when welded. Gaps are about 5-7mm. Got to remember that it's a Ford not a Ferrari Having a decent worklight helps a lot. I made this from a LED ceiling light by fitting a flex to it, maybe not something to copy if you need to pass the PAT but that is something I do not need to worry about.
  15. After a cleanup of herculean proportions I reclaimed enough space in the garage to work in relative comfort; At least I can walk around the car now Loads more junk still to sort through but beats working out in the rain. Now I can start gapping the panels, a mind numbingly boring process but one that can not be skipped. First I roughly set everything in place and quickly found the first issue. The bonnet was too low on one side, even with the rubber bumper at the upmost setting. Luckily was not that far off so poor mans frame rack got that sorted Chain attached to the frame rail kept the jack from running away. Next step would be to line up rear edges of the doors and from there step by step towards the front. Rinse and repeat until good enough..
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