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Kingsley

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About Kingsley

  • Rank
    BSCortina Member

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  • Current Car
    1982 Mk5 2.0S

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Christchurch, New Zealand

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  1. Thanks for your reply mate Yeah it was just refitted dry. The guy warned it may leak as the seal is quite hard and the locking strips have retreated / shrunk with age. But the locking strips are still readily available here. It seems like there are multiple sizes out there. I'm sure my original screen was Triplex (the rest of the glass is labelled as such) and the replacement is Moran. The car was built 04/1982, so will later rubber work for me (any I've found in UK talked about pre or post 01/1981)
  2. Hi all, I'm having a nightmare of a time trying to find a new rubber windscreen seal for my MK5. It's a 1982, NZ built saloon. Absolutely no one in NZ has them anymore, everyone goes up to a MK4 (TE in Australian speak) but not to the MK5 (TF in Australian speak). Multiple places have told me the seals haven't been made for about 10 years. The screen has leaked on me once and I'm paranoid about rusting out the bulkhead below it (I have had drops inside the shield, onto the dashboard at the bottom). The windscreen was replaced 2 years ago, but the original rubber was used. It's a Moran screen. Is there anywhere in the UK I could reliably source one and have it shipped to New Zealand? Starting to look like my only option! Cheers
  3. I use Castrol GTX Mineral 15W-40 in my MK5. Works a treat.
  4. I've noticed about 3 of the 9 brackets holding the louvre onto my MK5 are broken, meaning they're not actually helping hold the louver on. Given how rare these bloody things are I'm going to play it safe and fix them. Each bracket is a black piece of plastic that the plastic screw on the louver itself locks into with one turn. On the back they appear to be held with that sticky adhesive foam stuff, directly to the glass. Should I go for this or has time and experience given you guys a better method? Let me know :)
  5. Mine runs a hair (technical term) below halfway when driving at any speed, rises to bang-on halfway when sitting in traffic/idling.
  6. Well, washed the car today, gave special hose attention to the freshly replaced bailey channel door and no leaks to report - result!
  7. Debated doing this, it did create a bulge at the top of the door but with the window up it's a very tight seal that I doubt will leak. Looks OK too.
  8. I found their site confusing too, ended up ringing them and describing what I needed! $54.70 including GST.
  9. Fantastic thanks, did it myself, seems like a really good fit - the only bad news is, now having no windnoise from the drivers door makes the other doors sound worse! Might have to buy 3 more sets of it...
  10. Apologies in advance as I'm sure this has been asked before! The drivers' window bailey channel stripping (that the window glass sits snugly in, sealing the window) was looking very tired and letting the weather in so I've sourced some remanufactured stuff that looks like it'll do really well (Rare Spares, an AU/NZ company). My only question is...how do I change it? I've already removed the broken part, but does it go all the way down the door, i.e. do I need to remove the door cards? Cheers!
  11. Sounds like you may have it covered, on my Mk5 the problem was actually a rust hole in the wheel well - so in the rain, the wheel would flick water straight into the footwell and fill it up.
  12. Bumping the thread with my daily hack, 2008 Suzuki Swift 1.5...had it since new. Great car and never had any problems with it. In hindsight I should have got a manual but the auto goes alright.
  13. Hi Radius, My 2.0 also has blow-by issues - I don't get any smoke, but the car uses oil and also blows it out of the filler plug - can make a decent mess on a long drive. That said though I run the car normally and keep an eye on it and haven't had any issues save the occasional oil top up. On my mechanic's advice I use mineral Castrol GTX 10W-40 and that stays in the best of any oil I've used (the synthetic 10W-30 I used was useless) I've heard people bandy around 15W or even 20W but I thought I'd stick with what both the Haynes manual and owner handbook recommend. I don't get the strong fumes you're talking about though, just a faint burning smell in the engine bay and a very faint smell in the cabin if the blower is on high.
  14. Hi all, Lots of photos up here of gorgeous member cars with clean engine bays! Mine is a little grubby and has a few specks of oil from some blow-by on my last long drive...any recommended methods for cleaning? I see lots of videos on YouTube of people HOSING their engine bays down - sorry but bugger doing that on the Cortina!!! It just doesn't look safe to me. Mainly I want to clean the coolant expansion bottle, the bodywork in the engine bay, and the aircleaner cover (standard Ford OHC cleaner). Cheers Kingsley
  15. If anyone is looking for paint codes for a Australian or New Zealand-built Cortina, they could try these lists: http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/colour_codes_ford_motor_company_A-L.htm http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/colour_codes_ford_motor_company_M-Z.htm I was told colloquially my colour was "Sweet Cream" and was able to cross-check the name on this list and find my matching paint colour code.
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