mk4savage

Cheers Craig 👍 Always a bit dodgy when it comes to ball joints. Don't want too cheap quality if you know what I mean. Prefer middle of the road to best quality if possible. I know it's tricky with Cortina stuff as there ain't much choice nowadays. I reckon drilling the rivet out from underneath will be my best policy to try and save that plate on top. I've got an air chisel but I might invest in one of those air cut off tools just in case. I just hope I can lift the car high enough to get a good go at it. Oh how I wish I had a two post ramp 😄

I've found yet another job to do on my MK4 today Discovered a bit of play in the lower ball joint after servicing the front brakes with the obligatory check for play in the front wheels. As the title says the car is still on its original joints so the rivets will need removing. I did one of these years ago and as I remember it was a ball ache to get those rivets ground off. On the top side of the arm there is a plate with a curled edge which I'd like to save and replace with the new ball joint. The domed side of the rivet is the top side so the plate makes it difficult to get in with a grinder. The way I see it is drilling in to the rivet on the underside where the rivet is flat. Only trouble is working on the drive on the floor is not ideal. Just wondering what everyone else thinks who have done these before ? I remember when I did one years ago I damaged the plate on the top with the curled edge so had to bin that bit. As I said I'd like to save that this time around. I see these are available on eBay, QH I think they are. Would these be a good replacement? I can't see a motor factor or people like euro or gsf being able (or bothered) to get these. Cheers all 👍

Sorry to read this. I suffer with the same condition and I think it was started when I bought my old MK4 GL back and it needed loads of welding. I spent 12 months welding and grinding at my Mom's old house in a concrete garage. I remember noticing I had tinnitus especially one day when I'd done quite a bit of grinding, stupidly without ear defenders. I always wear ear plugs or defenders when doing noisy jobs now. What's that saying about the horse bolting ? Tinnitus is not nice and is one of a few unpleasant things I have to live with. I fully sympathise. Going back to the original post, grinding and hammering on the drive is annoying. My Mom's neighbours had a go at me a couple of times and they were easy going and I got on well with them. Sometimes I just got stuck in and didn't notice the time, oops. I try not to do noisy jobs outside my house especially grinding as I don't particularly like it myself when someone else is doing it. It's a tuff one really when you've got jobs to do on your motor. Good luck with it and I hope you get it welded up without too much aggro 👍

Cheers Craig 👍

I know what you mean. I think I might look into replacing the rubber again. I'm not sure if the ethanol eats plastic too ? Hence my question about the filter. Also, front to rear pipe is plastic I believe? I wonder if that needs changing ? What a pain in the arris it all is 😂 EDIT: I've just had a read through a post on here from several years back in the Cortina discussion area (I think) and it seems a hose type called Cohline 2240 is the type needed for ethanol safe requirements. Seen it on eBay for around 22 quid a meter. I probably paid something like that for the hose I have on now. From what I read the plastic front to rear will be ok it's just the rubber that is at risk of degrading. I'm guessing the filter will be ok too so I just need a decent quality replacement (I hope) .

I've got this filter fitted on my cologne V6. It's the one that Weber supply with new carbs and it's a fair few years old. I'm planning to replace it shortly but wondered if I should buy another the same with the Ethenol cobblers in mind. I will try and use super unleaded where possible but of course it may not always be available. All the adverts I've seen so far for the plastic inline filters don't seem to mention the Ethenol rating. I've thought about a metal one perhaps as it might not got eaten by the petrol. Anyone had any luck with an inline filter being rated for E10 ? Also, what do you think about these fuel lines ? Some years ago I replaced the rubber pipes with some from a motor factors. A few months down the line I couldn't believe it, they'd perished. I told my mate who works for Vauxhall and he said don't waste your money on cheap fuel lines, you need to spend proper money on some proper fuel pipe. He got me some that Vauxhall use and I remember thinking, How much for fuel pipe ? I can't remember the exact amount but it was expensive. I went with it and have to say he was right and they've lasted years and still appear very good. I can't make any sense out of the numbers printed on the pipe so not sure if it's ok for E10. It doesn't have a rubber feel to it either, feels like it's reinforced with something. Any help much appreciated 👍

I'm hoping so, fingers crossed ! I'll keep you posted 👍

I've had another mess with this today. Last week I applied some Wynn's Gasket maker to a towball bolt to test how it is once cured. The bolt is not quite as big as 20mm which is what the elbow screw thread is but not far off, big enough for a test. I think it would do the job but the only thing I don't like is the sealer remains flexible so there's a bit of movement in the joint. I purchased some Loctite 577 after doing a bit of research and it's supposed to be very good and seals and locks threads so I did the same test on another tow ball bolt, left it 24 hours to cure. Final result is it feels solid when I tried to move it with pipe grips compared to the Wynns. I got the torque wrench on it and it took somewhere between 42 and 50 NM to move it. I'm still not 100% happy that it has to rely on the sealer alone to keep it in position so I came up with a thick washer which seemed around the same thickness as the remaining thread under the hex on the pipe. I bored it out to 20mm with a step drill, did a bit of filing on it to get the right thickness to achieve the right angle. It's only pinched up onto the washer not torqued as such if you get what I mean. I'm thinking the combination of this and the loctite will do the job. What do you think ? I think it looks ok. Not exactly how Fords did it but I'm not overly worried about that I'd just feel a bit happier with a "mechanical" fixing.

They look pretty good. I think I saw these advertised on Face Plant if they're the same ones. They'll look a damn site better than split or missing ones. Lets be honest there aren't many new old stock ones left to buy now. I bought some many years ago from the auto jumble at Symonds Yat. I bought one pair then a few years later bought another set. 15 and 20 quid a set I paid as I remember. Must have been 10 + years ago now. Same as you John I waited until the original ones were hanging off before fitting the new ones. Great tip by Steve to fit stainless screws. Guess what I'm going to be doing in the near future

Many thanks mate for the info 👍 Not quite sure which route I'm going to take yet but I'll keep you posted.

That's what I was thinking 👍

Does sound promising. I'd like to see how solid it locks a threaded part before using it on this job just for peace of mind. On the other hand I'm thinking maybe use PTFE and perhaps a drop of threadlock on the upper part of the thread to make sure it wont move. I think using the tape will give the thread a bit of tightness to help keep it in position as it is quite loose as it is. Anyone know how long PTFE lasts on such an application ?

I might give that a go then, sounds promising 👍 I'd probably use it on the gasket also. The housing came with a gasket but with these sorts of things I always like to apply a bit of sealant on both sides of the gasket to make sure. I think the housing will be nice and flat but the manifold surface may not be 😀

I'd love to know what they used. Over the years the two metals weld themselves together with corrosion so it has no chance of leaking. I had a game to get that pipe out of the casting. Let's just say the casting is no more 😂 It's a tough one isn't it ? I always find that things are never straight forward. Always seems to be a fly in the ointment with everything 😀 Cheers for that. I assume you mean to use that on the thread then wind it in to position? Along the lines of what John has suggested.

Thanks Craig

Yes, The only way it will leak is from the thread. I was thinking of using Loctite at one point but I was reading some reviews which mostly said it was excellent but one pointed out that if it's disturbed after setting it will leak. It put me off a bit as the position I need it in is quite loose and so will be relying on the Loctite to hold it. I can see it being knocked at some point so not sure I'd trust it fully. I think I'll feel more confident with tape. I'm guessing there is only one sort of tape that plumbers use ? I've never thought about it before. I wonder what Ford would have used when they built these things ?

No, it's all one piece.

Hi everyone. Not posted anything for a while as the Cortina enthusiasm has dwindled a little over the years. Mainly due to some personal issues and trying to get stuff done at home etc. I decided to get the covers off the old MK4 and get it started as it's not been out since 2021. As the title says I've got issues with the aluminium top housing which feeds the radiator top hose and the heater matrix. I've noticed droplets of water around this area before along with some white powder but thought it may be the gasket weeping. In the back of my mind I'm thinking has the alloy gone porous ? Well I was right with my second thought, after having it running a while I noticed some water leaking from the top so I decided to scrape it with a screwdriver and ended up with my own hot spring in the garage 🤣 Yes, it has gone porous ! I have managed to source a new housing from Tickover which I must say is very good quality. They seem the only people who supply these for the 2.3 engine. I certainly couldn't find anyone else selling them. Only snag is they don't stock the screw in elbow for the T off for the heater matrix. I have recovered my original one which will work again but my question is how do I seal the thread and also lock it in the correct position ? I've cleaned up the thread nicely on a wire brush wheel and it screws in to the housing nicely but when it bottoms out it's not quite in the correct position it needs to be in. Originally it isn't screwed all the way in, there were approximately 2 threads showing. It may reach the correct position if I give it some with a spanner but I don't want to force it. I have thought about PTFE tape or loctite of some sort but what would you do ? Any help much appreciated from anyone in the know. Cheers

Great news Pete, I've had a response. I'll send you a pm 👍

I've sent him a message via Facebook so I'll let you know if I hear anything back 👍

I can send Richard a message. I don't know him but maybe he will reply. I'll see what happens. Can't always rely on Facebook I find. I think Forums are far better but sadly everyone seems to fall into the Facebook trap.

I saw the estate on facebook in February this year Pete. It would seem Mike doesn't own it anymore. A guy called Richard has posted some photos of some restoration work he's doing to it. The work looks very good so looks like it's in good hands. I'm not sure where in the country he is though.

That's a lovely bike. Reminds me of when I was about 10 I guess and a friend of the family was a Sidecar racer but was also into Trials and I rode one of his Bultacos a few times, Not very well mind but If I'd carried on at it I might have got the hang of it. I was a bit scared of it to be honest. I'd love to have a go on one nowadays though, I've had a bit more bike experience since then Great bike, You're very lucky

J2S.. I'll remember that for when I re tax mine in April. When I taxed it this year it still had an MOT. cheers