DramaBob

1972 Ford Cortina 1600GT - location: Navan, Republic of Ireland Full ad plus pics here: https://www.donedeal.ie/vintagecars-for-sale/cortina-mk3-1600gt-clutch-now-fixed/42598249 Recorded as a GT on both the current Irish registration document and the original UK logbook — not a replica or converted base model! Previously registered in NI, so an easy switch back if so desired. Repainted in two-pack paint approximately ten years ago, the finish has held up, and still presents very well today, though naturally shows some age-related imperfections expected of a 54-year-old car. Spec: - Genuine 1600GT (documented) - 1.6-litre Pinto engine - Desirable slope-dash model - Original GT "tombstone" front seats - Original four-clock centre instrument pod Recent work carried out on the car during my ownership includes: - New LUK clutch fitted 8 August 2026 - New Weber 32/36 automatic choke carburettor (recently fitted) - New front brake calipers - New drilled and grooved front brake discs - New brake pads - New ball joints - Replacement steering rack - New steering rack gaiters - New steering rack bushes - New track rod ends - New steering column flexible coupling ("doughnut") - New KYB shock absorbers (all four corners) - Five professionally refurbished and powder-coated Laser alloy wheels - Four new tyres - New exhaust back box (though the centre section could do with replacing) - New battery - New chrome door mirrors - New gear lever gaiter - New fitted carpet mats - New period-correct wiper blades Note: The driver's side chassis rail will require a patch. This is reflected in the asking price - €13,500 ONO

Hi all, thanks a mill for your replies - much appreciated. It's given me a lot to think about, especially as the current wheels could do with a new set of tyres. So I'm either going to just do a straight replacement for the tyres already on the standard 13" wheels, or upgrade wheels and tyres in one go. I'm definitely conscious of the risk of rubbing arches, particularly since this car (by the looks of it) has been lowered about an inch all round already. No power steering either, and that 3 litre Essex is a big lump up front. So anything that's going to make the steering even heavier will have to be given careful thought! Thanks again, and I'll throw up an update if/when I finally make up my mind...

Hi all, My current motor (my 5th Cortina) is a South African Mk4 3.0S in Wild Tangerine - yep, you can see it from space, I reckon. It has standard wheels at the moment (185 profile) and I'm considering changing up to a wider profile (maybe 205 or better) as the rear end is a bit skittish and I could do with more grip. With that in mind, I have a few questions! - will the current standard wheels take a 205 profile tyre? - if I switch to a 7x13 from, say, JBW (maybe the RS-type wheels), what's the best offset I should be looking for? (front arches would be little tight, plenty of room in the rear though) - should I just stick to a 6x13, and if so, what offset? Apologies for all the questions, but I just can't seem to find this info anywhere. Cheers, Bob

Hi all, My latest project is a 1969 Mk2 1300 Deluxe with the 4-speed column shifter. She's an original Irish car, assembled in Cork, so is rare as hen's teeth. She's been hiding in a barn since 1993, so as you'd imagine, there isn't a single bush left intact. I've sourced poly bushes for the entire suspension setup, but am finding it near impossible to locate a set of bushes for the column shift gear linkage. There are a huge number of links, twists and turns between the shifter and the gearbox, and with no bushes, it behaves like a spoon in a bowl of porridge. Finding the right gear is nigh on impossible! I've had no luck trying to find a set of replacement bushes, and I do want to keep the column shifter for originality (no interest in converting to a floor mount). Any tips, hint, referrals to companies/people you might know would be hugely appreciated! Cheers Bob

Hi all, I've sold on my Mk5 to her lucky new owner, and was Cortina-less for a whole 6 days before I snapped up a 1969 Mk2 1300 Deluxe. She's been parked up since 1993, so you can imagine I've a bit of work ahead of me... I'm looking to replace the shocks front and rear (in addition to about a million other jobs), but am having the devil's time actually getting a handle on which shocks I should be getting. So I have a few questions, which I'm hoping you can help with: Are the shocks for Mk1 and Mk2 models the same? Every time I look up shocks for the car, the compatibility is listed as "Ford Cortina 1962-70" which doesn't make a whole of sense, unless the shocks are indeed the same. I've found these on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KYB-Shock-Absorber-Premium-Left-or-Right-Rear-PN-443017/352307134104 - according to the vendor, KYB shocks 443016 (front) and 443017 (rear) are the ones to get. But I have my doubts, as what I've read elsewhere about their fitment doesn't match up with the layout of the car (i.e. front shocks are an insert for the strut, etc.) Can anyone offer a spot of clarity, or the correct code/product number for the shocks? They definitely need replacing, as they're at least 30 years old, and I don't want to go buying the wrong ones... Thanks in advance, Bob

Hi all, Thanks a million for your replies - I went and ordered the one from Old Part Store last night (before I saw your offer, Sheffield). It's a job worth doing while I have the rack off the car. Cheers Bob

Hi all, I'm refurbishing my mk5's front end - powdercoating the subframe, poly-bushing, new springs/shocks, the whole 9 yards. This started when I bought new brake discs, and one thing led to another and you know the rest... Anyway, I'm looking at the bottom of the steering column - see attached pic, and this rubber link is looking a bit tired. Because I don't know what it's called, I don't know how to order a new one (or if that's even possible). Any hints, tips or info is most welcome! Cheers Bob EDIT - I cannot for the life of me remember/figure out how to attach a pic. As soon as I do, I'll send one up.

Sorry, just saw your edit now. I'll still fire up a pic tomorrow, though I agree that I'd be happier setting the timing the way the car seems to like it. I was just worried about potential damage.

Hi Sheffield, not sure if I'm following you. The notches seem to go across the entire pulley - not top/bottom notches. I'll take a pic tomorrow and will post it.

Hi all, I've recently done a few bits on my 1982 1.6 pinto, including piston rings, valve stem seals, reseated valves, reset clearances etc., and have installed an accuspark electronic ignition kit to boot. I've replaced the carb as well, with a brand new Weber 34 ICH single barrel (same as the one that had been on it). I'm just trying to nail down the timing. I've lined up the crank pulley, camshaft pulley and distributor the correct way, but where I'm running into issues is over the timing notches. The nice folks at Haynes say the timing should be 6 degrees BTDC, and I do appreciate that sometimes that may need to be retarded a bit when using unleaded (I am using lead additive though). The real problem is that there seems to be conflicting information out there regarding the notches on the crank pulley - whether they're 2 or 4 degrees apart. Looking at my crank pulley from above, the heaviest notch (which I've assumed is TDC) is the one furthest on the left. There are about 5 notches to the right of it. I've been going on the assumption that the notches are 4 degrees apart, and have set my timing accordingly, i.e. about halfway between the 1st and 2nd notches to the right of the TDC notch. But when I'm driving, there seems to be a bit of hesitance when I'm accelerating through third. The car seems to almost catch a bit, then finds itself again and powers through. If I try to set the timing by ear, the car seems much happier (definitely runs faster) if I set it around the third notch over from TDC. If the notches are 4 degrees apart, that makes it 12 degrees BTDC, which seems a bit much, even accounting for unleaded. BUT if the notches are 2 degrees apart, this is bang on 6 degrees BTDC. Anyway, two questions: 1) Can anyone definitively say whether the notches are 2 or 4 degrees apart? 2) If they're 4, and I set the timing to 12 degrees BTDC, how much damage could this cause? (I haven't done this, am a little afraid to...) Cheers Bob

Hi all, I've recently done a few bits on my 1982 1.6 pinto, including piston rings, valve stem seals, reseated valves, reset clearances etc., and have installed an accuspark electronic ignition kit to boot. I've replaced the carb as well, with a brand new Weber 34 ICH single barrel (same as the one that had been on it). I'm just trying to nail down the timing. I've lined up the crank pulley, camshaft pulley and distributor the correct way, but where I'm running into issues is over the timing notches. The nice folks at Haynes say the timing should be 6 degrees BTDC, and I do appreciate that sometimes that may need to be retarded a bit when using unleaded (I am using lead additive though). The real problem is that there seems to be conflicting information out there regarding the notches on the crank pulley - whether they're 2 or 4 degrees apart. Looking at my crank pulley from above, the heaviest notch (which I've assumed is TDC) is the one furthest on the left. There are about 5 notches to the right of it. I've been going on the assumption that the notches are 4 degrees apart, and have set my timing accordingly, i.e. about halfway between the 1st and 2nd notches to the right of the TDC notch. But when I'm driving, there seems to be a bit of hesitance when I'm accelerating through third. The car seems to almost catch a bit, then finds itself again and powers through. If I try to set the timing by ear, the car seems much happier (definitely runs faster) if I set it around the third notch over from TDC. If the notches are 4 degrees apart, that makes it 12 degrees BTDC, which seems a bit much, even accounting for unleaded. BUT if the notches are 2 degrees apart, this is bang on 6 degrees BTDC. Anyway, two questions: 1) Can anyone definitively say whether the notches are 2 or 4 degrees apart? 2) If they're 4, and I set the timing to 12 degrees BTDC, how much damage could this cause? (I haven't done this, am a little afraid to...) Cheers Bob

More good news - she's up and running and was out for a quick spin today. Next up: replacing the brake calipers. Never a dull moment!

Right, it lives! Or at least she's turning over now. Not catching yet, but it's progress :-)

Oh god, I'm an idiot. I had the blade down as the coil boost and the round pin as the ignition line. It just tested perfectly outside of the car, will re-install and update asap!

Update! (ans apologies if the uploaded pics are huge). So I've bypassed the ignition line (pics 1,2), and actually removed the starter to test it. So here's what happens when I test the starter motor, separate from the car, with a jumper pack: - Connect positive cable to the positive terminal, negative cable to the body of the motor - when shorting across positive terminal to earth terminal, motor spins up, but does not jump forward - when shorting across positive terminal to ignition line input terminal, nothing happens I've tried the above process with three different starter motors (long story) with exactly the same results, including my original starter motor with the shiny new solenoid installed. So I set the starter motor up, outside of the car body, and connected it as follows (see pic): - Ran red jumper cable from positive terminal of battery to positive terminal on solenoid - Ran black jumper cable from body of starter motor to engine block for earthing - ran bypassed line from ignition switch directly to ignition input terminal on solenoid - also ran line from coil booster cable to flat blade terminal on solenoid I tested the ignition line, on a brand new wire, on crank position, and got 12.5v. So... the starter motor is hooked up just as it would be if it was installed in the car. Earthing good, wiring good, voltage good. And yet... Dry click. The actual dry click sound is not coming from the solenoid, I have since discovered. It's coming from the wire/connection in the last pic, which is attached to the carb. If I disconnect this, I don't even get the dry click. Although I've checked everything, and am positive it's all connected the way it should be, I must be missing something somewhere. The chances of all three starter motors being defective, especially the one with the brand new solenoid, have to be miniscule. HELP!