Cortina1975

Thanks Dr Craig . Those pads seem to be in place and tight. No rear support on the radio ..the set I have is only fixed by the spindles ..but it rattled just as bad with no wireless fitted. I fitted a bigger 8x5 dash speaker with a bit of ply from an old cupboard but it didn't make the buzzing worse.. Where are the bolts for the dash crash pad? Heater box seems to be screwed down tight but the foam all turned to mush. All tight on steering column...yeh has a choke cable think it's the original Will check the clock in the centre console but the sound doesn't seem to come from there..seems like it's right behind the radio but I can't feel anything vibrating Previous owner hacked away the dash panel to fit a PYE radio so I had to remake a bracket to hold the new spindles mount radio in...was wondering if this made the dash rattly

Thanks Sir Craig . Do I need to take out the air blender box to check the lug ?. I can't see any rubber pads on the screen ducts..do they go underneath them ? Heater cables seem secure ...I know the foam on the heater flaps was missing but the buzzing doesn't go away if i move the heater controls Hazard relay seems to be okay

Hi all, I have a dashboard on my 75 Cortina that has all kinds of rattles and buzzing sounds that I can't seem to find the source of that is slowly driving me crazy. I've taken out the instrument cluster and glovebox but still can't find it. They seem to be coming from near the air vents and the around the heater controls but i can't find anything loose. Does anyone know what the fix is? I've sorted the vibrations from around the gearbox by changing the mount back to the Ford one but this problem remains Thanks for any replies :)

It's probably common knowledge here but it's taken me 5 years to figure out why my transmission tunnel kept vibrating with the engine ticking over and accelerating 🤦‍♂️ Remember fitting poly bushes to the track control arms of my SD1 and it made the suspension really harsh ..so try to avoid them now

I'm sure the OP has..just putting it out there that the new gearbox mounts are .s.hite in the hope it might save someone the hassle I've had .I was only aware of issues with the engine mounts being too firm and causing vibration I bought mine from B'tons so there must be a few Fords out there with vibrations as they are as hard as bell metal. The Cortina mount is marginal anyway as Ford made the Sierra mount bigger and softer to reduce NVH...so why the aftermarket made the mounts harder is beyond me unless it's for the Caterham crowd who don't mind having their fillings shaken out

Could be the new gearbox mount I've had problems with vibration and roughness since fitting a 5 speed gearbox. I thought it was a bearing in the gearbox but found out the new gearbox mount is hard as nails same as the new engine mounts. Superglued the 50 year old mount back together and fitted that and it's like a different car now. Now just need to sort out the vibration around the heater control in the dashboard :). Think the new mounts are fine for competition use but hopeless for our road cars.

Thanks Dr Craig. Indeed has a trip meter..would be great if you have one

Hi all, Is there anywhere that repairs Cortina speedometers - mine is reading 12 MPH at 30 MPH. Even considering I probably have the wrong drive gear fitted on the 5 speed box this seems way out. Or is it possible to calibrate them somehow?. The odometer was seized but managed to get that going with some wd-40. Thanks in anticipation of any replies.

Hi Tigdlo, Got me thinking so I was doing some reading that to increase the ratio of a worm drive fewer teeth on the cog are needed. I'm wondering if my speedo is faulty and should be reading too fast with the 22T ..why cant anything be straightforward lol . At the moment it reads about 40mph when doing 50 etc. I found this chart online that suggests higher ratios need more teeth.. i guess the prop is spinning faster so the drive needs to slow down...could be completely wrong !

Thanks Dr Craig. I might try bending the needle if the cog swap doesn't work. Think my box came out of a 1.8 Sierra ...not sure which diff ratio that would have had?

Thanks Tig. Looks like my speedometer gear is too big to fit the Type 9...not sure what type of box 1600's had but it cant be the E. Looks like I have 22T in the type 9 so I guess I need a more teeth to correct the speedo?

Happy Easter everyone, I did a type 9 swap on my 1600 Cortina. It's always annoyed me that the speedometer now reads too slow. Can I change the drive gear on the box for the one fitted to the 4 speed ?. It's 30mm diameter but the one on the Burton's catalogue for the type 9 is 25mm and nla. Think I had an E type box but not quite sure. It has 24 teeth. Or does anyone know where i can get a type 9 gear with 24 teeth ? Thanks for any replies :)

Thanks Martog, Ah I didn't know that the thin wire to the battery was a fusible link --presumably it's under the plastic sleeve ?.. .. I've been having a few starting issues when the battery isn't 100% charged for a while now. The terminal going to the solenoid is definitely a bit loose now because it's always getting knocked of its post when i work on the car.

Thanks Dr Craig , measured the pinion gear and it's 26mm diameter on the pre engaged Lucas and 30 on the old inertia starter. Wondering if the pitch of the teeth could be wrong ?

Thanks Sir Craig Euro car parts sent me this it's got the bullet and spade terminal. Does it look like the early type ?. Would the ring gear need to be turned around I remember something about the chamfer being on the wrong side for an inertia starter ?