Heedwa

No problem! That'll be really helpful! I'm guessing the plugs are all the same, with multiple holes to fit onto a hazard/headlamp/wiper switch? I'd just have to find the right female connecters to put into the holes, to connect to the pins on the back of the switch....I think?

Thanks Craig! I'll pm you now. That'll be really helpful if there's some wire from an old hazard loom too. I can work from those on making the entire loom

Thanks Craig! If you have a cam, let me know please, happy to buy it off you. You're right, the plug for the back of the switch is part of a separate loom for hazards. I was going to attempt creating the loom myself because I didn't think anyone would have it

Hello Just wondering if anyone would have an indicator cancel cam for a mk3 cortina pfl? I found a mk2 one online, but not sure if they're the same fit. Also, I'm looking at wiring in hazards as per the manual, and was wondering if anyone has the 7 pin female socket that goes onto the back of the switch itself? I have the switch, just checking if anyone has the other part the switch goes into. Happy to pay for both parts. Thanks for all the help as alway

Hello I'm going to attempt wiring hazards into my 1972 pfl (never had hazards I think). I'm following the Haynes manual, and it's taken a while but I think I'm understanding how it's all wired up. I was just wondering if someone could help corresponding the numbers/letters on the diagram switch in the manual to the pins on the actual hazard switch itself. The hazard switch pins are numbered 1,2,3,4,5,6 & 8. The diagram has them as 15,30,C,L,R,49a & 49. Can someone tell me which is which on the hazard switch please? I've attached pictures of the switch and the diagram too. Thank you for all your help, as always!

Thanks mate! I have read mixed reviews on accuspark. I'll try it for a while and see how it runs. I'm a little annoyed that I had to change to electronic ignition to get the car running again, because I'll never know now what the actual problem was!

I was checking the clearance on the cams from the opposite side from where they're adjusted. I was thinking/hoping the same too, that maybe it sounds how it should now! But I'll take it out for a spin over the next few days and see how it runs, and then decide if I should re-adjust the clearances again. The accuspark is running OK at the minute! The instructions say to leave the ballast wire in and run the red wire from the accuspark from a live ignition feed, which is what I've done. But the reading at the coil is still reading 12v or more. With the ballast resistor still connected, shouldn't it read 9v? Hopefully I've wired it all in correctly

Thanks Craig! I'll keep messing with the timing as I'm not completely happy with how it's sounding. Still trying to find that sweet spot. Thanks for the advice, I'll have a play with timing how you suggested tomorrow

Here's an older video of how it sounded. You're right, phone recordings probably aren't the nest to gauge engine sound, but this will give an idea of how it sounded compared to how it does now. 20240420_161123.mp4

I've never done clearances before, so I wouldn't be surprised if I didn't do a perfect job first time. I followed the specs, and went by the 'slight drag' rule when checking with the feeler gauges. But some people say it should be tighter than slight drag, so now I'm thinking maybe I should've set them tighter on the gauges. I guess I could take it out for a spin and see how it feels. I'll find a video of how it sounded before, maybe then if you have a reference you'll have a better idea if it sounds OK or worse. I bought the accuspark one, and swapped the ballast resistor out for some wire. But the rev counter isn't working now which I've heard can happen when fitting these.

UPDATE: Changed the ignitinion to the electronic ignition, and the car fired up! This is the first time it's started after I changed the valve stem seals and set valve clearances last week. The engine doesn't sound as smooth as it did previously. Sounds a bit more 'tappy'. I've attached a video. Does this sound normal? Does it sound like the clearances may be too loose? I adjusted the timing with a strobe light after fitting in the electronic ignition, adjusting it to where it was previously as the new ignition threw the timing off. Is it a case of letting the new seals and clearances set over time? Thanks for all the help as usual! 20241022_174652.mp4

I can try the original switch. It was a bit damp so I've left it out to dry. The back of it was a bit wet too, but that might have been from the contact cleaner I sprayed onto it. You're right, that missing wire is odd. And I never even noticed it in the Haynes manual. But the car was running perfectly without it up until late last week.

Thanks Craig, I'll replace it with a similar wire in thickness. On the car not starting and not getting any spark at the plugs, do you think the distributor itself could be gone?

Thank you for the suggestions! I'll get hold of some carb cleaner and see if that'll help the engine out. There seems to be fuel coming through the carb, as the plugs all smelt of petrol when I took them out. I've double checked most the the ythkgns you've suggested. But you are right, it's something simple but I can't find what it is! Going to go over everything again today