Stuwindsurf

MASSIVE update, I think I have finally found out what the issue was causing my bump steer, I think it was incorrect castor angle! I can't believe it might be something as simple as this after months of scratching my head and racking people's brains. I had set the castor angle so that the front and back wheel centres measured 101.5" as mentioned by others as a start point. I assumed it was ok for now but didn't realise how much it effects bump steer if not set correctly. I've just been out to the car and wound the nuts on the tie bars on a few threads just to see what would happen and I could literally watch the front wheels straighten up as I did so. I noticed at the weekend when the steering was at full lock the inside edge of the tyre touched the anti roll bar etc. I thought thats not right, maybe the castor angle is incorrect pulling the bottom suspension arm back too much and when I checked this morning I was right! 😁 I will be so relieved if this is the issue, I was beginning to think I had a twisted or messed up suspension set up. Thanks to everyone for your help and input, it was much appreciated! Hopefully problem solved, Yaay!! Just got to find someone reputable that can set it all up once I get it on the road 🧐

That's my thinking, but hey I'll try anything!

Yes I will try that, thanks

Thanks Craig, much appreciated 😊

For the camber I used both an angle metre and a builders square against a level flat surface. It is only to get it in the ball park before I get it set up properly with the correct tools. Again I could physically see the wheels lean out the the top which I why I then checked them and adjusted as mentioned. For the Toe measurement I set the car at ride height again on a flat level surface and measured between the front of the wheel rims and the back of the wheel rims and adjusted accordingly to get them the same. Again only to get them in the ball park for now. I agree with you that it appears that the rack and suspension components aren't compatible but what I don't understand is how others like Craig have fitted the same components with no issues! In fact Ford fitted the same front subframe as the MK3 to the MK4 which the power steering rack came off!! It is certainly a srange one, when I get a chance I'm going to remove the springs so I can see exactly what's going on throughout the whole suspension movement bump stop to full droop

These are the ball joints and track rod ends I fitted, both listed for Mk3/4/5 Cortina, anyone had any issues with these brands?

I think it's just the camera angle 👍🏻

👍🏻 I am going to take one off completely to see how the wheel moves throughout it's entire range, bump stop to full droop

Here's a pic of the parts after they were media blasted and epoxy primed, don't know if you can tell from these...

I haven't yet, but only because I know off a few other people who have fitted a rover V8 and running on the 234lb springs. The other thing is the car doesn't sit particularly low on these springs, which suggests they're not getting overly compressed. Length wise, they sit 1" shorter than the stock springs when put side by side

So I bought the car disassembled, the front suspension was complete with the manual steering rack fitted etc but not bolted to the car as the previous owner had stripped the car back to the shell. I have been slowly rebuilding the whole car and stripped the whole front suspension assembly, had it all media blasted/repainted, then rebuilt using all new bushes, ball joints and track rod ends and also fitted the power steering rack at the same time. I can see no sign of any damage to any of the suspension parts. And so unfortunately I don't have any reference to whether it had the same issue before. Another strange oddity was after fitting the front subframe to the car after rebuilding it, I checked the camber and both wheels leant out at the top slightly, positive camber, I think it was about 5-6mm at the top of the tyres. The only way I could get rid of this was to machine the bolt holes on the upper ball joints to allow them to sit back inline, about 3mm I think it was. This brought the camber on the front wheels back inline. I thought this was strange especially after lowering the car 1" which normally has the opposite effect, ie causing negative camber. I had the bump steer before I did this. So now I am at a complete loss as to why I am getting this bump steer!! I'm in Norfolk BTW

Thanks Craig, well that does mean I have a problem!!

Thanks Craig, that would be really helpful

Yes I did 😆 I know this would be a real pain but at some point would you be able to find time to jack up the front of one of your PS cars so both wheels are off the ground and see if the wheels point inwards slightly at full drop? Just trying to establish if mine is any different. The other thing I thought of was if the gaz adjustable shocks I have are letting the suspension droop more than normal when the car is on the lift, and therefore taking the suspension past it's intended range...... Probably clutching at straws now though!!

Thanks. Yes I understand that wheel alignment is done with the car on the floor. I'm not trying to set anything up with the car in the air. But when you can visibly see the wheels pointing inwards when the car is raised on the lift you can't ignore it. As you mention it above all needs to be safe to drive hence me asking the questions. So I have copied others who have done exactly the same, fitted a Mk4 power steering rack to a Mk3 and I'm just trying to find out why I now have these issues. It is very frustrating!!