Dinoplex

I see thanks a lot for the information and the help i really appreciate it I dont know what they did to "fix" it 1-2 weeks ago but seems like whatever they did didnt work. Great to know that its same as TC3, so i ll try to get this new one and replace it https://www.fordtoptancisi.com/urun/kontak-anahtari-taunus?srsltid=AfmBOoobKrZ2P4-d4C0KVLdTzOqU4qqpJbRqZF0_Hj5sbTEWa-mUuO06 when i put this in its gonna be like pre 74 cars with dual keys right? Now i will have this key for ignition and the other original keys for the doors and trunk. Also im really . at understanding stuff without pictures so i ll also check if theres any pictures about it in the german workshop manual and the haynes cortina mk4 one Btw could the lock fail any further than it already is? When i replace the wire i ll try to drive it home by wiggling the key half way which seemed to work today i could turn the engine over etc. While im driving back could it fail further and lock the steering wheel or something? Also not sure i can find actual pinto specific coil to distributor wire in my immediate vicinity, would a random spark plug wire for other makes (fiat 131 and renault 12) work on the pinto as well for the coil to distributor wire, i could get the proper wire later from internet, just need something for now to bring the car back home.

I see thanks, i ll get a new wire and try it in a couple days hopefully the distributor cap is still fine and not burnt out since it wasnt attached on properly and i drove like that for a week. I shoulda just checked it but it never crossed my mind that the cap wouldnt be fully seated after it came back from bodyshop. Also i got a new key grinded last year and i ve been using that one, keeping the original one as "spare" since then. The problem with mine currently is that the lock is always "in" and doesnt pop out when the key isnt inserted and i had to really wiggle the key to get it half way in to be able to turn on the ignition etc and after that halfway in it doesnt wanna go in any further. Weirdest part is it was all fine on my way there, then i get back in the car after the gym and then lock kept staying in that "in" position its basically stuck there now and the key doesnt wanna go in all the way now.

Me again with yet another random problem that got me stranded this time I parked the tc2/mk4 in the gyms parking lot and after i came back to the car to head home it didnt start. Since my automatic choke isnt adjusted correctly (1.6 pinto 1v carb) i kept pumping thinking its just not getting enough fuel but no still nothing. I then popped the hood and saw that somehow the ign coil to distributor wire has completely broken off from the distributor section and the distributor cap was also a bit loose and not seated fully. The tip of the wire is still attached to the distributor but the rest of the wire had broken away and was dangling and the wire is only a year old. Then i realized that i also flooded the engine when i pumped the gas quite a bit. Sadly i had no new wire to swap it out , i tried to put the broken wire back in and duck taped it and floored the pedal and kept it floored while cranking to try and clear the flood and cranked for a total of maybe 40 seconds (in 3 different tries to not kill the starter) it kinda wanted to start but still didnt so i just had to leave it there, not sure if its still flooded or just not getting enough spark due to broken wire (it was also backfiring from the intake into the air cleaner). I plan on coming back to it in a couple of days with a new wire, will the flood clear itself when sitting like that for a couple of days or should i remove all spark plugs and then turn the engine over to clear the flood that way. Also the wire was new, i wonder if the bodyshop somehow damaged them during the rust repairs in the cowl area or maybe if they knocked off the distributor cap a bit from its seat, could that have caused the wire to break within that one week due to not correctly seated distributor cap?. Or maybe is it a case of just new parts being trash in quality i dont know Also another issue that worried me a lot more, the key doesnt really wanna go into the ignition key hole. Like the key hole itself has plunged inside to its housing a bit. I could still somewhat turn the key after giving it a couple tries but the key is absolutely not all the way in and doesnt wanna go all the way in. I can even remove the key in any position. I left it in 1 to clear the steering lock in case if i need to tow it and need to have a functioning steering wheel. The bodyshop also damaged the ignition key hole during the assembly and that was repaired before i picked the car up last week but now suddently its acting up again despite being "fixed". Im wondering what could be causing it to plunge into its housing. Thanks a lot in advance again

I see, thanks a lot for the valuable information

I see thanks a lot again for the answers. Also do you reckon superglue would hold that broken mirror piece as well? Or should i just find some welder to stick weld that section or maybe spot weld. It felt like a metal piece. By the way this is the local plastic crap i was talking about, its got glue under that yellow tape and supposed to be glued on somewhere. Not sure if our locally produced otosan taunus models were also using these glued mirrors or not. I might find a period correct mirror from facebook groups but would probably be expensive i d rather try to fix mine if possible. These new production ones are very cheap its like 10 gbp so im sure they are made from the most garbage plastic ever. Edit: I just looked at TC3 models and they have this glued mirror as well, i thought those had same type of mirrors as mine but turns out they arent the same. So then our locally produced TC3 models must ve had these ones from factory as well.

I had no clue that imgur was banned there so looks like thats why they werent loading. I ll try to upload them directly here and hope they work. I ve attached the weatherstripping pictures and the sheared section of the mirror fan speed lever springing back.mp4

I see now thanks, until now i had no clue it was banned in the UK and it never crossed my mind that it would be banned there . Here in turkey i need a vpn to even access discord among many other things so i have windscribe vpn subscription and i think they also offer a free plan upto 10gb capacity, you can try that one if that free eonvpn still doesnt work. There is also a thing called goodbyedpi that lets you access every website even if its banned by the government. Its a very popular and useful thing here in turkey and also in russia as well.

Here are the pictures of the weatherstripping in this imgur link. You can see the inside of the car from this gap when the door is closed. https://imgur.com/a/hmp9FNU

Thanks a lot for the pictures and the information, i ll try to remove it and the rest of the mirror from there this weekend and get better pics of the broken sections of the mirror. I ll get a picture of the weatherstripping today and upload it. By the way, i forgot to say that the lights on the radio and the hvac control area still work if that helps with diagnosis im not sure. Only the gauge cluster lights are out. Can i access those wires you mentioned from below the dash after removing the lower dash insulation thing or do i still gotta remove the gauge cluster first. Also sorry that i ve been asking too many dumb questions but i really have no clue about electrics . By the way the german workshop manual that i got also has the entire wiring diagrams but its black and white and i also have no clue how to read them correctly.

Yes all of the external lights work, except for the right front parking light for some reason thats also not working now after they assembled it but the actual night driving lights work only the park doesnt work on right headlight assembly. The dash lights also werent working last year when i first got the car then they put new bulbs in they were very bright like in picture below but overtime they started dimming out quite a bit which i thought afterwards that it was due to the water leak from the cowl rust. Around the time i discovered the water leak the radio also stopped working and the fuse for the radio and horn etc popped. Turned out that radio contacts were corroded and after clearing it the radio worked again, so i thought again the water might have just corroded the dash connection that caused them to dim first and then completely dead now that its assembled back again. https://imgur.com/oXV2nhL Also i have 0 electrical tools, not even a multimeter and overall i dont really know much about electrics Also yeah the rheostat knob felt tight so thats why i wanted to make sure first on how to remove it correctly. I ll try to pry it from the back now. By lugs do you mean these sections that i have circled in red in this picture https://i.imgur.com/GNMa1q1.jpeg , i bought some plastic trim removing tools so i should just pry off from those sections right? Also lets say if i f up, would that cause the headliner to collapse if that plastic piece were no longer to be there or does that nor really have anything to do with how the headliner is attached and is being hold. Would a really strong superglue hold the sheared mirror piece for now or should i find some welder to try to stick weld that portion back. Tried looking for replacement mirror but couldnt find much, there are some local produced crap for sale that have some tape attachment on them that i think you are supposed to stick to windshield itself like in modern cars so i dont wanna get those. I see now about the heater box, makes sense. I ll try to remove it and clean it. At least thats not a tooo big issue for now so i can focus on the other stuff first. Oh and also they somehow took off a chunk of the right front doors weatherstripping so now there is a small gap between right front door and the right front compartment. I need to get that sorted too asap before it rains, can i glue a cut piece of weatherstripping in there? Or do i need to replace the whole weatherstripping on that door. Forgot to take a picture of that but a section on the top part of the weatherstripping is just missing.

Not sure where to put this, i thought i would put it in electrical since one of them is kinda releated to it. Okay so my car 76 taunus tc2/mk4 cortina is back from rust repair and repaint and they disassembled pretty much entire dash in that process but they did a meh job on the assembly. I got couple of issues, firstly the interior mirror sheared off somehow from its base. The actual attachment point is still in that headliner area but the mirror itself sheared off. How can i remove the rest of the mirror assembly from that headliner area? There is this plastic thing here in picture below, is it holding in the headliner? Would removing that ruin my headliner? Im really scared to touch the headliner so i dont want to mess with it. After that plastic piece is removed, how can i remove the rest of the mirror is it just screwed or bolted on there? Secondly the fan speed lever doesnt really move to 3rd position for full speed. It does if i force it to and engages 3rd speed but the moment i let my finger off from pushing it it snaps back and drops down to 2nd speed again. It wasnt like this before it would just stay on the 3rd level now it just snaps back into second. The first speed also feels like its engaging later than it should. How can i fix this issue? Thirdly the gauge cluster lights dont work, they were very dim anyway which im guessing the contacts corroded because thats where water was leaking in through. I guess i need to remove the cluster and the heater and blower control panel. The german taunus workshop manual shows that i ll need to first remove the plastic trim on the dash but the gauge cluster brightness adjustment rheostat thing is also in the way and the manual doesnt show how exactly i can remove that. Do i just pull on it hard to remove that knob? Or do i use some sort of plastic trim removal tool to push it from behind where it sits. Do i also need to remove the radio to be able to remove the hvac control panel? In the workshop manual the radio is removed in the pictures before they removed the hvac control panel so i thought i would ask that too. After removing the hvac control panel, how could i fix that fan speed issue with it snapping back. Here is a video below that i uploaded to imgur which shows what i mean by it snapping back Thanks a lot in advance https://imgur.com/2Xm3UMW Edit: If the links i attached dont show up as pictures, they can be seen in this imgur link where i uploaded all of them Imgur: The magic of the Internet

so if i just remove the heater box and the plastic bits on the left side and clean the cowl area behind them, i should be alright in terms of cowl cleanliness? But it still boggles my mind how the edges of the cowl even rusts out on these if water doesnt even drain from those areas where i imagined it would puddle with a blocked drain from that section.

Ah damn i thought they would both at least use the same type of weatherstripping. I dont know how im gonna be able to find the earlier thinner weatherstripping in here I will ask some fb groups maybe i can find something there So are the drains like in this video at the timestamp? I saw this a while ago and thought that cant be the only drain . That area doesnt even look like it can get clogged up too much, i thought there were other drains at the edges of the cowl panel like in a mustang and them getting plugged would collect water there and then rust the corners of the cowl like in my car. If thats the only drain from the heater box area i wonder how the edges of the cowl even rust out on these. I also looked into the mustangs a bit and their overall cowl design looks even worse than the cortinas . I also dont udnerstand what the purpose of that second panel is under the cowl, the one with the big circular holes on it like in the pictures above i posted where the top piece of the cowl was cut and somehow water collects around that hole and starts eating thru the metal

yeah the bodyshop did quite a nice job , i dont have the space nor skill to do any bodywork sadly

I see thank you so much. My car is january 1976 so i guess it would have the earlier version and not the one from mk5. Do those 2 differing sizes of chrome pieces also require different type of weatherstrippings or can they be put on every type of weatherstripping? Looks wise i probably wouldnt mind it too much as long as that chrome is there. I think the pre 74 ones also used a different one that has full chrome look on them and not half black half chrome look like on 74-75-76. Those look pretty cool as well The ones on my car looked exactly like this one in the picture below Also another thing im wondering, where exactly does the cowl drain into and how can i clean it? Looks like on most american cars they drain into the wheelwell just behind the front wheel but looking at mk4 pics with fenders removed i couldnt see any drains like that. I would really like to avoid this cowl rust in the future and i dont have access to a parking space with roof and walls so crap is gonna fall into the cowl one way or another and i would like to get rid of them after a certain period of time so that they dont block the drains again and cause this horrible rust again. I think removing the heater box and couple of the plastic bits there should give a good amount of access to clean that area but im not sure where the drains themselves are and i would like to clean especially those