Dinoplex

But why, they arent very good imo . In turkey they go for 3-4 times cheaper prices than the actual german production models and the later production ones especially from 1990 and onwards like in that picture have lots of sierra bits on them that just make them pretty awful imo. In turkey these are still regarded as a step below the actual german models in terms of quality. In fact when my granddad took our 1975 knudsen tc1 taunus for a repaint in one of the bodyshops here in turkey in the 1990s, the shop owner actually stole a couple bits from our german car to put on his turkish licence production tc3 model simply because the german parts were better.

Some guy on turkish facebook groups said if i put silicone under the fuse box area i ll be able to stop the leak. The cortinas are ultra popular in here because we also licence produced the taunus tc3 (cortina mk5) under licence from 1985 until 1994 so theres tons of those cars running around here still.

I was speaking with people in a german forum and the guy that owns this channel sent these videos. It looks like it might be due to rust in these locations under the cowl area. They called those locations as "horror corners"

Yeah we also thought it was that and the shop changed it but its still leaking. Which that was definitely leaking too because previously i saw water coming from that area but some other place is still leaking

Hello, my lhd mk4 leaks water to the driver footwell and there were big rains for 2 days and there was probably like 250ml of water on the rubber carpets that i evacuated. The car just came back from the shop from this same problem and shop said they fixed it which they did indeed replace all the hvac gaskets and pretty sure they cleaned the cowl drains as well. Previously it used to drip water from right under the dash on drivers side and also from the lower hvac air outlet at the center but only drip to drivers side never to passenger side. That thick carpet like material that sits under the dash would be soooo wet but right now thats pretty dry, i felt just a slight touch of wetness on that dashboard carpet at the edge where its near the steering column but it was very little wetness. I felt much more wetness in the section where the fender is, the panel that is left to the clutch pedal. But i never drove the car it was just stationary in the rain, can some rust hole in the fender area cause the water to leak from there into the drivers footwell area even when car is stationary? I also heard that it can sometimes leak from a rust hole under the fuse box area. Or maybe the left fender drain is blocked so its somehow leaking water inside due to that?

Ah damn that also sounds pretty bad, indeed as you have said the whole world went mad post covid Also thanks for the help

I said europe but its actually basically everywhere. I live in an absolute sh*thole joke of a country, they reduced the maximum price of abroad shopping to 20 dollars including shipping and not only that the seller that you bought that part from has to have some "official authorized individual" within turkey to "provide support" in case a i have a problem with the product. An insane law basically, surely some ebay seller in europe will hire some guy in turkey to do those things just so i can buy stuff from him XD. If you buy something that doesnt satisfy those conditions the customs just confiscate whatever you bought. The reason they brought those laws is because everybody was buying stuff from temu for waaaay cheaper than the massive turkish online sellers with their massive markups and those sellers are close with government so to protect them the clown gov brought those insane customs laws. And after all that if you manage to find something that satisfies those crazy conditions, you pay 50% customs tax if its shipped from eu and 100% customs tax if its shipped from outside of eu XDDDD Thanks for the advice with the materials like araldite, i didnt knew about those. I will check if we have those sort of stuff available in this sh*thole

Oh i see, i thought mine was kinda on the leaky side. Thankfully our MOT in turkey barely cares about leaks like that so it just passes them no problem. Apperantly theres this thing called "SKF Speedi Sleeve" that can seal worn shafts and my front main seal was changed and was still leaking so i think my crankshaft is kinda worn out at the front and not sealing with the seal properly. But we dont have that product for sale in turkey and i cant buy from european sites because our gov is........................ , so im basically stuck with that leaking front main seal.

Yeah the kadetts is closed pcv i think , like the köln v4/v6 engines. I have these diagrams for pinto and kent from the workshop manual. The kent one is great but the pinto one doesnt show too much. Interestingly enough the german manuals call both pinto and kent as closed systems like the köln engines but in the diagrams they show the köln engines pcv system is of the closed type like the kadett ohv engine and not like the pinto/kent, im guessing maybe the manual did a small mistake with naming. By the way, i took pics of my engine bay. The front main is leaking so its throwing some oil around via the cambelt so there is also that. The valve cover gasket was changed about 8 months ago btw. The oil filler cap sits tightly and there isnt much blowby from there, the compression on the engine was also checked 8 months ago and it was healthy on compression.

The wiki and couple other websites talking about pcv systems were saying that the closed system was developed to prevent any gases escaping from oil breather to atmosphere to reduce emissions further, they say it can happen under full throttle where there is plenty blowby that it will exhaust from the oil breather also (even on new engines). But its very minimal , majority still goes to the intake so i guess its not enough to damp the area under the oil cap with oil stains on a perfectly fine functioning pinto. I will take and post the pictures from my engine here tomorrow. The front main is also leaking and cambelt throws that around so im not sure if its from that or oil exhausting from the filler cap. This diagram from opel kadett ohv engine actually shows the arrows exiting out from the breather inlet in the air filter area of its closed style pcv system. I took this picture from its workshop manual and it said during idle and part throttle the fresh air comes from the breather but on full throttle with a lot more blowby compared to part throttle, some of the crankcase vapors will exit from the breather area and the picture shows both operations at the same time thats why the arrows are a bit messy.

According to the desciption of wikipedia about "closed" and "open" pcv systems, it sounds like both pinto and kent engines use open style pcv system where it breathes air through the oil filler cap and not from a section in the air filter housing like closed pcv systems do. The haynes manual also calls it "semi enclosed pcv system" however the german tc2 taunus workshop manual calls both pinto and kent engines as "closed pcv system" when translating to english. Did the workshop manual perhaps make a mistake there? Wikipedia also says that open pcv systems under full throttle conditions still let crankcase vapors escape from the oil filler cap area and my pinto engine is a bit damp under the oil filler cap. So is that normal that pinto engines are kind of damped under the oil filler cap due to the open pcv system allowing crankcase vapors to escape from there under full throttle? Or maybe my oil seperator is too dirty and it cant properly seperate the oil from air properly so my oil filter area gets damp? Thanks in advance

i see thanks a lot for the information, i ll be testing it today

It snowed yesterday and it also got a bit icy and i didnt think of also removing the snow from the strakes below the windshield where blower motor gets its air from. Today i was driving and put on the blower motor it ran for 2-3 mins but then suddently i smelled something burning and immediately shut off the blower motor. Now it doesnt do anything when i move the lever. Its still below 0 degrees so is it possible that some ice found its way to the blower motor area and stopped it from working by jamming it or something? The blower motor itself was also new it was installed 2-3 months ago. Im guessing its a very low chance but maybe its not working because there is still some ice there and once it melts it should work? Or im guessing the other more likely case is that my blower motor got somehow destroyed since it also had a burning smell. Another thing i wanna ask is can this create a fire hazard? i know in bmw e34s if the resistor of the blower motor starts to smell and go bad then it could light up leaves and other crap that is gathered in there and set the whole car on fire. Can this also happen with cortina mk4s? If so would i still be fine by just not touching the fan at all and just keeping it off always and never put it in any other position?

I was looking at motomobils parts catalogue and saw that they are selling this anti dieseling solenoid https://www.motomobil.com/en/products/carburettor-solenoid-valve-anti-dieseling-kit-ohc-13-16l-only-for-single-choke-carburettor-15416730-8 But i went thru the german taunus workshop manual and couldnt find anything about this part in the manual so that makes me wonder is this part being sold some aftermarket kit that you can put on your car or did these come with the cars from the factory? Whenever i shut off the engine i also hear like a psssst vacuum kinda sound and i think these anti dieseling solenoids also work with vacuum but im not sure. So i was wondering if my car taunus tc2/cortina mk4 with 1.6 pinto motorcraft 1v carb has one of these or not. I tried looking for it in the engine bay but couldnt see something like this but maybe i missed it. Since i hear that psssst sound on shutdown i felt like it should have this part but i couldnt find it.

I see thanks a lot for the information