Dinoplex

Thanks for the detailed explanation, interesting that V6 models came with power steering as standard. In the taunus models it was only standard in Ghia trim. Most of the V6 models that were sold had no power steering and german motoring magazines back then always complained about the very heavy steering of the V6 models along with them understeering compared to pinto engined models. Im guessing these same recaro seats that are shown in 82 TC3 brochure https://www.motomobil.com/fileadmin//_2020/prospekte/Prospekte_Taunus_MK1_MK2_MK3/Ford_Taunus_MK3_Originalprospekt_1982_01.pdf

I see, i always thought they were identical in the trim levels as well since the cars themselves are pretty much identical in mk4 and mk5. Was there also a "S" trim in the UK models? The S trim also seems to have the same ghia rims. I just checked the accessories section on a couple of TC3 brochures and they dont mention the boot release and cruise control, i guess that also didnt exist in germany

Hmm then i think the base trim levels differed a bit between cortina and taunus. Im pretty sure mine is base made because it has no L badge and no glove box illumination and on the wiring diagrams in workshop manual its noted that only base models dont have illimunation, i also have rubber mats instead of carpets that came with L model and above. But at the same time i also have the chrome grill and rubber on the bumpers and mine is january 1976 genk belgium production. I also posted those pictures from this zwischengas article https://www.zwischengas.com/de/FT/fahrzeugberichte/Ford-Taunus-im-historischen-Test.html All of those pictures were taken in 1976, it looks like even the L model has the wide front intake and only the base model has the narrow intake. That first picture i posted in previous post is also base model i just checked it again, no L badge on the back of the car. It has the same K-LE 304 licence plate. The zwischengas article also talks about this exact car as the base model. "Ford Taunus 1.3 (1976) – das Basismodell als zweitürige Limousine" The L model seems to have the wide intake as in the picture below also taken in 1976 as part of promotional photo shoots i think but not sure. (it also notes it having optional extra vinyl roof) The zwischengas article also says this below which is basically saying that compared to the base TC1 model; now the laminated windscreen, rubber chrome bumpers, automatic seatbelts are standard on the base model TC2 which were not standard on the base model TC1 and hence the 405 DM price increase over 1975 TC1 base model Taunus. It also says that L models brought better sound dampening and also used carpets on the floor instead of rubber mats, illuminated glove box compartment etc. Maybe the wide inlet came to cortinas in the 77 facelift and in the taunus models it depended on the trim model? Base model getting the narrow intake and above base models getting the wide intake. I initially thought maybe the wider inlet was for more cooling for the V6 engines but that doesnt seem to be the case. Also the zwischengas article is paid membership only but i can "gift" the article thru email if anybody wants to see the whole thing its got bunch of nice pictures which were taken from Swiss Automobil Revue magazine early 1976 issue. "11'000 DM-Klasse Der Grundpreis von 9995 DM für den Taunus-Zweitürer 1.3 entspricht genau dem Ascona 1.2. Gegenüber dem vergleichbaren Vorgänger gab es eine Verteuerung von 405 DM, die sich zumindest teilweise durch die jetzt serienmäßigen Stoßstangen-Gummileisten, durch Verbundglas-Frontscheibe und Automatikgurte rechtfertigen läßt. Die Kopfstützen an den Vordersitzen werden dagegen immer noch als gehobenes Luxusextra gehandelt – erst ab Taunus GL, ferner bei S und Ghia kosten sie keinen Aufpreis. Der Aufpreis für die L-Ausstattung empfiehlt sich zunächst wegen dem höheren Geräuschdämpfungsaufwand (auch Bodenteppich); daneben sind beim L als Ausstattungsplus nennenswert: Verschließbarer und beleuchteter Handschuhkasten, Mittelablage auf dem Getriebetunnel, stufenlos regulierbare Instrumentenbeleuchtung, Zigarettenanzünder, Zeituhr und abblendbarer Innenspiegel."

Mine doesnt have the full opening, its like in the first picture below. But looking at pictures of other cars some of them have the air intake running the entire width of the car and not just a small section under the licence plate as it can be seen in the second picture below. Im wondering which models came with which style? Did it depend on the trim level of the car or the engine? (mine is lowest trim base model not even the L version, i think the car in the first picture is also base model and in second picture its ghia trim)

By the way i asked around on fb and indeed it looks like none of our models came with injection and no oxygen sensor and no cats so i guess the 1993 models wouldnt be possible to import into the UK . I think here even cats were mandated in around 2002-2003, my dad bought a brand new FIAT Siena 1.4el in 2000 and it came with no cats and used the lampredi monoalbero engine from fiat 128 fwhich first came out in 1969, only things added to the 69 model engine was single point efi and wasted spark ignition. 31 year old engine with no cats still being sold in brand new cars in year 2000

@sierra3dr https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1CH7tiPcWw/ i have found this listing while scrollin thru the turkish fb groups. The guy is asking 3100 gbp for 1992 model with power steering, electric front windows, 5 speed gearbox and AC equipped car. (Also has LPG on it) and doesnt seem to be too well taken care of . Not sure for how much cortina mk5s go for in the UK but around 2500-3500 gbp range will be as cheap as it can get in here. We drive the most expensive cars in the world thanks to our taxation system, you buy one brand new car for yourself and 3 other cars for the government with the amount of tax you pay :)). My dads car is Opel astra j 2012 sports tourer with 1.4 engine and its worth around 20000 euro in here, same car in germany is barely worth 7-8k euros . Our own locally manufactured cars are still very cheap thankfully and not ultra expensive like modern cars. The 2500-3500 gbp mark seems a bit cheaper than what TC3 Taunus models go for in Germany but as far as i know cars are quite a bit cheaper in the UK compared to Germany so maybe the 2500-3500 price range isnt too cheap by UK standards.

I dont think we had such laws until early 2000s. The FIAT 124 for example was still being sold with its original carburetor in turkey all the way until mid 90s. The FIAT 131 was also same , kept being sold until 2003 and i think until 1999 it still had carbs. We only started implementing emission laws in the early 2000s to "comply with EU" so that we could enter EU but that entering the EU bit never happened. I dont think we had any injected engines on the otosan taunus models, let alone it having closed loop system with an oxygen sensor. But im not too knowledged on the otosan models, i just asked on a turkish facebook group now i ll give an update once i gather some more accurate information because im not 100% sure myself. The later models had tons of sierra parts used on them which just ruined the cars imo. No more steel dashboard, used the plastic sierra dash, sierra headlights, taillights, mirrors steering wheel etc. The whole interior pretty much became a sierra and the exterior used sierra plastic bumpers and the headlights, taillights etc. Very bad hybrid of a car imo, i really dislike those late versions. Thankfully for the initial couple of years it was identical to the German TC3 Taunus so the early models are still nice imo

i see thanks a lot

But why, they arent very good imo . In turkey they go for 3-4 times cheaper prices than the actual german production models and the later production ones especially from 1990 and onwards like in that picture have lots of sierra bits on them that just make them pretty awful imo. In turkey these are still regarded as a step below the actual german models in terms of quality. In fact when my granddad took our 1975 knudsen tc1 taunus for a repaint in one of the bodyshops here in turkey in the 1990s, the shop owner actually stole a couple bits from our german car to put on his turkish licence production tc3 model simply because the german parts were better.

Some guy on turkish facebook groups said if i put silicone under the fuse box area i ll be able to stop the leak. The cortinas are ultra popular in here because we also licence produced the taunus tc3 (cortina mk5) under licence from 1985 until 1994 so theres tons of those cars running around here still.

I was speaking with people in a german forum and the guy that owns this channel sent these videos. It looks like it might be due to rust in these locations under the cowl area. They called those locations as "horror corners"

Yeah we also thought it was that and the shop changed it but its still leaking. Which that was definitely leaking too because previously i saw water coming from that area but some other place is still leaking

Hello, my lhd mk4 leaks water to the driver footwell and there were big rains for 2 days and there was probably like 250ml of water on the rubber carpets that i evacuated. The car just came back from the shop from this same problem and shop said they fixed it which they did indeed replace all the hvac gaskets and pretty sure they cleaned the cowl drains as well. Previously it used to drip water from right under the dash on drivers side and also from the lower hvac air outlet at the center but only drip to drivers side never to passenger side. That thick carpet like material that sits under the dash would be soooo wet but right now thats pretty dry, i felt just a slight touch of wetness on that dashboard carpet at the edge where its near the steering column but it was very little wetness. I felt much more wetness in the section where the fender is, the panel that is left to the clutch pedal. But i never drove the car it was just stationary in the rain, can some rust hole in the fender area cause the water to leak from there into the drivers footwell area even when car is stationary? I also heard that it can sometimes leak from a rust hole under the fuse box area. Or maybe the left fender drain is blocked so its somehow leaking water inside due to that?

Ah damn that also sounds pretty bad, indeed as you have said the whole world went mad post covid Also thanks for the help

I said europe but its actually basically everywhere. I live in an absolute sh*thole joke of a country, they reduced the maximum price of abroad shopping to 20 dollars including shipping and not only that the seller that you bought that part from has to have some "official authorized individual" within turkey to "provide support" in case a i have a problem with the product. An insane law basically, surely some ebay seller in europe will hire some guy in turkey to do those things just so i can buy stuff from him XD. If you buy something that doesnt satisfy those conditions the customs just confiscate whatever you bought. The reason they brought those laws is because everybody was buying stuff from temu for waaaay cheaper than the massive turkish online sellers with their massive markups and those sellers are close with government so to protect them the clown gov brought those insane customs laws. And after all that if you manage to find something that satisfies those crazy conditions, you pay 50% customs tax if its shipped from eu and 100% customs tax if its shipped from outside of eu XDDDD Thanks for the advice with the materials like araldite, i didnt knew about those. I will check if we have those sort of stuff available in this sh*thole

Oh i see, i thought mine was kinda on the leaky side. Thankfully our MOT in turkey barely cares about leaks like that so it just passes them no problem. Apperantly theres this thing called "SKF Speedi Sleeve" that can seal worn shafts and my front main seal was changed and was still leaking so i think my crankshaft is kinda worn out at the front and not sealing with the seal properly. But we dont have that product for sale in turkey and i cant buy from european sites because our gov is........................ , so im basically stuck with that leaking front main seal.

Yeah the kadetts is closed pcv i think , like the köln v4/v6 engines. I have these diagrams for pinto and kent from the workshop manual. The kent one is great but the pinto one doesnt show too much. Interestingly enough the german manuals call both pinto and kent as closed systems like the köln engines but in the diagrams they show the köln engines pcv system is of the closed type like the kadett ohv engine and not like the pinto/kent, im guessing maybe the manual did a small mistake with naming. By the way, i took pics of my engine bay. The front main is leaking so its throwing some oil around via the cambelt so there is also that. The valve cover gasket was changed about 8 months ago btw. The oil filler cap sits tightly and there isnt much blowby from there, the compression on the engine was also checked 8 months ago and it was healthy on compression.

The wiki and couple other websites talking about pcv systems were saying that the closed system was developed to prevent any gases escaping from oil breather to atmosphere to reduce emissions further, they say it can happen under full throttle where there is plenty blowby that it will exhaust from the oil breather also (even on new engines). But its very minimal , majority still goes to the intake so i guess its not enough to damp the area under the oil cap with oil stains on a perfectly fine functioning pinto. I will take and post the pictures from my engine here tomorrow. The front main is also leaking and cambelt throws that around so im not sure if its from that or oil exhausting from the filler cap. This diagram from opel kadett ohv engine actually shows the arrows exiting out from the breather inlet in the air filter area of its closed style pcv system. I took this picture from its workshop manual and it said during idle and part throttle the fresh air comes from the breather but on full throttle with a lot more blowby compared to part throttle, some of the crankcase vapors will exit from the breather area and the picture shows both operations at the same time thats why the arrows are a bit messy.

According to the desciption of wikipedia about "closed" and "open" pcv systems, it sounds like both pinto and kent engines use open style pcv system where it breathes air through the oil filler cap and not from a section in the air filter housing like closed pcv systems do. The haynes manual also calls it "semi enclosed pcv system" however the german tc2 taunus workshop manual calls both pinto and kent engines as "closed pcv system" when translating to english. Did the workshop manual perhaps make a mistake there? Wikipedia also says that open pcv systems under full throttle conditions still let crankcase vapors escape from the oil filler cap area and my pinto engine is a bit damp under the oil filler cap. So is that normal that pinto engines are kind of damped under the oil filler cap due to the open pcv system allowing crankcase vapors to escape from there under full throttle? Or maybe my oil seperator is too dirty and it cant properly seperate the oil from air properly so my oil filter area gets damp? Thanks in advance

i see thanks a lot for the information, i ll be testing it today

It snowed yesterday and it also got a bit icy and i didnt think of also removing the snow from the strakes below the windshield where blower motor gets its air from. Today i was driving and put on the blower motor it ran for 2-3 mins but then suddently i smelled something burning and immediately shut off the blower motor. Now it doesnt do anything when i move the lever. Its still below 0 degrees so is it possible that some ice found its way to the blower motor area and stopped it from working by jamming it or something? The blower motor itself was also new it was installed 2-3 months ago. Im guessing its a very low chance but maybe its not working because there is still some ice there and once it melts it should work? Or im guessing the other more likely case is that my blower motor got somehow destroyed since it also had a burning smell. Another thing i wanna ask is can this create a fire hazard? i know in bmw e34s if the resistor of the blower motor starts to smell and go bad then it could light up leaves and other crap that is gathered in there and set the whole car on fire. Can this also happen with cortina mk4s? If so would i still be fine by just not touching the fan at all and just keeping it off always and never put it in any other position?

I was looking at motomobils parts catalogue and saw that they are selling this anti dieseling solenoid https://www.motomobil.com/en/products/carburettor-solenoid-valve-anti-dieseling-kit-ohc-13-16l-only-for-single-choke-carburettor-15416730-8 But i went thru the german taunus workshop manual and couldnt find anything about this part in the manual so that makes me wonder is this part being sold some aftermarket kit that you can put on your car or did these come with the cars from the factory? Whenever i shut off the engine i also hear like a psssst vacuum kinda sound and i think these anti dieseling solenoids also work with vacuum but im not sure. So i was wondering if my car taunus tc2/cortina mk4 with 1.6 pinto motorcraft 1v carb has one of these or not. I tried looking for it in the engine bay but couldnt see something like this but maybe i missed it. Since i hear that psssst sound on shutdown i felt like it should have this part but i couldnt find it.

I see thanks a lot for the information

yes they always stop in that position, i tried putting on the wipers and shut off ignition just when the wipers were at bottom of windscreen then shut off the wiper switch in the steering column then started car and wipers stayed in normal position for about 20 seconds but then put themselves back to the upright position again. i also asked in a german forum and they said grease the wipers motor and check the wiring. I think i ll just take it to a shop and tell them about your method and the german forums method and hope they ll be able to fix it since i dont know anything about wiper mechanisms and know very little about electrical stuff.

Hello, i have a taunus tc2 so basically a lhd cortina mk4 and the wipers work fine at both speeds however when i stop them they return to the upright position as it can be seen in picture below instead of resting at the bottom of the windshield. What could be causing this issue and how could i fix it? Thanks in advance