Jump to content

WS1

Advanced Member
  • Content Count

    87
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

WS1 last won the day on January 29

WS1 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About WS1

  • Rank
    BSCortina Member

Previous Fields

  • Current Car
    Cortina Mk5

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    UK
  • Interests
    Cars and Cars and The Wife.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Oh and after the above i replaced both front rubber brake hoses as she was pulling to the right when i slammed the anchors on.... Now she stopps in a straight line..... Big thanks to Craig and Mr Mack for all the tipsπŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘πŸ‘
  2. Finally an update.... I purchased disks, master cylinder, rear cylinders and stainless hoses. Once ive fitted everthing i will include a list of correct parts for anyone else searching XR6 brakes in the future. So to recap, after freeing off the rear cylinders we had a pedal that hit the bulkhead.... bled system... no air etc all caliper pistons moving and rear cylinders moving so suspected the master cylinder or bad vacuum. I was always iffy about the cylinders because the pistons measured 25mm but no 80s ford had them that big..... Now to throw this in remember the South African car community are excellent at making other bits fit.... interestingly Alfa Romeos had 25mm rear cylinder pistons so we suspect the cylinders were bored out to the next size up. I thought... i will change one item at a time and see what happens... I changed the rear hose.... still same. Changed the rear cylinders (both) and ..... its perfect!!!.... pedal now half way up and when you jump on it the car actually nose dives. (At this point i realised i should of done what Mr Mack sugested first to identify the rears as the problem .... dohπŸ™„) The rear cylinders i purchased are the Cortina 2.3V6 type and the stainless hoses are Matt Lewis Racing. Once ive done all the rest of the brake refurb i will put a list of parts up but for now she stopps.πŸ˜‰πŸ‘ Oh and because the pedal travel is decreased the engine is behaving.... partly i think because of the lower consumption of vaccum.
  3. rusty adjusters do me edd in.... i know they arnt origonal but on my land rover i made some from M4 (i think) bolts in stainless steel.... when i have adjusted them since its been really easy. is that price right?😲.... wow.... mind you are they like hens teeth?
  4. mmmm extension it isπŸ˜‰πŸ‘.... Wayne
  5. Oh and if the vacuum idea works i will get a 12v vacuum pump and additional reservoir to help with braking but also take the demand from the engine..... maybe it will actually ticover better....πŸ€£πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ
  6. spot on Craig..... I did the handbrake last night and checked again earlier.... handbrake now only pulls up 2 clicks and is FULLY ON!!!.... i mean really on.... drop it and the wheels rotate lovely so i recon ive got the tightest tollerance in there..... Now you may of hit on something, i pulled the master forward tonight and the pushrod is level with the front of the servo.... put my finger in the master and the plunger seems to be level with the mounting flange however the old servo has a plunger that looks slightly longer..... Heres the weird bit..... the wife sat in the car and pushed on the brakes, her foot was a quarter down before the pushrod started to move (with engine running) with engine off she could push pedal half way down before the pushrod started to move..... This engine has a race cam.... tickover is as lumpy as hell.... the vacuum is awfull, press the brakes 2 times at tickover and they are really hard..... at the weekend im gonna first adjust the pushrod, clamp the rear flexi and try that, then borrow my mates vacuum pump and manually vacuum the servo to see if the pushrod actually moves straight away. ps there is no leaks from the master cylinder at the rear.
  7. good idea Mr mackπŸ˜πŸ‘... not thought of that.... im going work in it at the mo so not messing cos it stops. will try that at the weekend.
  8. thats perfect.... if Dave says no i will go that route.... Ps the car stops quite well but just has a butt twitching amount of travel...... could it be the servo actuator rod? im sure i saw a difference in the new and the old.... better get the old one back out and get comparing.
  9. Well it gets better .... and worse... I stripped and cleaned the rear cylinders to keep it moving..... put the brakes all back together.... adjusted everything and all is mint.....on the rear that is!!! the rear brakes work, the handbrake is superb and after several re-adjustments they come on quick and then they come off clear when needed so the car can pull away..... AND big bonus is the squeel which i did think maybe a dry bearing has gone and the rear feels really smooth. I will get some new cylinders anyway because there was a little scoring here and there. however i now have a brake pedal that travels WAY TO FAR!!!..... it nearly gets to the floor. I did the servo when we purchased it because it had a huge air leak..... so it aint that. Ive bled the brakes twice..... all clear. i did notice when i pump the brake pedal it gets a slight bit better but nothing huge. I may have a theory..... Burton Power chap said with a South African car expect anything.... they are mint at making alternative bits fit..... So maybe someone has fitted those huge bore rear cylinders and they are wrong..... now they are freed off they are demanding alot of juice to fill them, thus the massive pedal travel. The master cylinder is std Mk5 Girling from the outside.... but the rear brake proportioning valve is an ATE upright thing on the inner wing that is fitted to 80's Volvos, BMWs and Alfas.... so the setup maybe correct. The master cylinder next? Ps i checked all those cylinders you mentioned and none are the same fit..... I have had a thought that throwing some Sierra ones on may redudce the demand on the fluid amount. Oh and im ringing Dave Rushton Engineering near to us to see if they can still regrind brake drums. πŸ˜πŸ€¦β€β™‚οΈ
  10. Just stripped the jammed cylinder to see what the bore is..... its 1inch😩.... No idea what these were on.... ive looked at granada. Taunus. Cortina. Sierra. Ka. Escort.... none have 25.4mm bore... Closest is sierra at 20 mm And the rear brake pressure modulator is used on Alfas Volvos and BMWs of the day..... Had a reply about the drums.... they are australian spec blanks from their cortinas but were drilled to euro spec 4 stud.... closest i get to dimensions is off a mustang 2. My drums are still measuring up as 229mm so hope they will reskim. The SA suppliment says the rear shoes sre 57.2mm wide and the dtums should measure 229mm.... Burton power are going through this next week for me hopefully
  11. Lol.... yes.... as i trawled for hours last night i found quite a few 'similar' parts.πŸ˜‰πŸ‘
  12. Yes that bit..... i think ive found a new un in germany..... also noticed my handbrake clip on the lower arm one side is shot.... found a transit one that looks correct.... Once ive sussed all the bits that sort this out i will post my findings too..... for now its about getting it back running for monday, i need to move it. I can make a temp stop at the bottom with a nut and bolt Im gonna measure everything.... put it back together.... then get bits and do it in near future.😊
  13. Your a gem.... just had a look on burton power ....all the bits look spot on. Ps.... that little backplate plunger/handbrake stop.... they list it for xr2 and sierra but not on the cortina/granada.... Did cortina mk5s have that plunger?πŸ˜ŠπŸ‘
  14. Thanks Craig.... did the granny ever come with 4 stud hubs?
Γ—
Γ—
  • Create New...