WS1

They are listed as type 16 but they take the bigger pads.... im sure these are identical to my old xr6 ones

Probably way way way gone but ive just noticed a pair listed wrong on ebay (ive let him know) https://ebay.us/m/jbP3SX

Yes Craig thats spot on.... my master is wide Girling type🙂👍

https://ebay.us/m/g3j442 New servo... Ive purchased this same one and its perfect

Agree with Craig.... Now ive got a new servo my XR6 can lock up the wheels when braking.... There was a new servo on ebay for about £110 Wayne

Craig... your a font of all knowledge.... Thankyou😉👍.

OH MY DAYS😲.... well i would never have guessed that!!.... after your final assesment of it locking up it now makes sense.... your lucky it didnt throw the rear brakes on and send you into something.... well done for catching it...... Just getting a pen....next on my to do list then is..... Must Check Back Brakes👌

Chaps.... which key did the mk5 come out of the factory with, the tall ones like a mk2 escort or the rounder ones like on a sierra?? (Hope that makes sense😉) Cheers.

I remember years ago....(when my father had series landrovers 🙄) i was driving an old landy series 2 on a lane and had a horrific but brief steering wobble.... dad laughed and said "yep, thats a death wobble, time to check track rod ends".... The vehicle in question spent 90% of its time in a field at 10mph.... out on the lane it was awful.... And yes those track rod ends....3 on a landy were all very shot. To get a brief 'wobble' somethings gotta be loose????... or very worn????

What speed did it judder at when not braking? Warped disk or out of balance wheel is my first go to.😉👍

Ebay number.... 187494391595

There was a chap on ebay name stuart selling dark blue ones.... could be dyed black maybe? I take it GL spec is the deep pile version?😉👍

That looks mint😉👍

Ive had 2k Jawel paint.... i could see through it.... took 5 coats to coverish.... (and still didnt) they swore the batch was fine... i sent it back, they said 'oh sorry must of been something wrong with it' sent me some new paint that covered in 1 coat.... i asked what the new stuff was and the chap said they had used an expensive pigment and specially mixed it... My point is, if its cheap, it will be watered down. They have the ability to mix decent stuff but my batches have been low grade..... I did also buy yellow 2k and was told yellow is a hard paint to cover.... Because id started the project with their paint i purched loads more to complete it..... I ended up paying as much as i would to get quality (expensive) paint locally. Just my 2p worth.😊👍

Thats superb.... well done😊👍

I agree with Craig, that looks like its got a leak into the carb thus changing the mix ratio, spray easy start around the carb and if the revs raise then youve found the leak..... on the metal strip, ive not heard that but the newer (rubbish) webers instead of a bush they use a teflon strip wrapped around that spindle on some carb models (im told)..... found this out when i purchased a brand new carb and there was a leak... the seller said thats the best i can do, it went back!!!. I then had an interesting conversation with a carb rebuilder that confirmed the above and that he 'rebushes' them so they dont leak.... because i was desperate i purchased a chineese carb off ebay for £80 and it is far better than the new weber.... I will however be having my old carb rebuilt at some point because i dont feel the chineese one will last.

Pop the piston out and check inside the bore that there aint a build up of sludge.... use clean brake fluid as a lubricant and make sure the piston slides in smoothly..... sometimes a rusty piston can drag too.... Hope all goes well with it.😊👍

On the left side getting hot. Get the car jacked up, spin the wheel and get an assistant to touch the brakes, once it tight enough so you can no longer spin the wheel tell them to release and see if the pistons are drawing back slowly or quickly.... It maybe a sticking piston.... I personally replace brake parts in pairs, even calipers, that way k know ive the best chance of them being 'even'... Still.... check the above and see if that identifies a glitch.😊👍

oh and the right on being colder may be that its actually doing its job.... thus moving off the disk when brakes not applied. if above fails id be looking at the master cyl but as the front brakes are on the same section of the master cyl and one side is working id say it was fine.... for now

i had this.... left caliper pistons were staying out so that when i hit the brakes the left engaged straight away..... not only were the pistons sticking but the left flexi was also colapsing inside thus allowing fluid to the caliper to brake but not freely allowing it back .... it would trickle the pressure off but the left caliper was always warm due to always being slightly on. change left flexi next

Chaps i know some of you remove those vents to stick a radio in there..... would you like to sell the vent????😊 idealy id like a complete unit inc the 2 vents but if you have just the vents in good nick then i may be tempted to try rebuild mine.

I cant remember if i updated an old post but ive purchased all my bulbs and the flasher unit from classic car leds..... the flashers are now like orange head lights they are that bright and the flash rate is perfect..... it also clicks like an origonal one too. oh and it works with both bulb types so when i did the rear led bulbs to start with this flasher unit would still work on the front standard bulbs too. see below for the unit i used....😉👍

Right so i have an update on this for those that experience similar issues. Temp Reading was really low checked all the usual, engine earth, sender, resistance of sender, gauge direct to earth and went all way up, tested wire from sender to clocks for resistance and checked the output from the voltage stabiliser all was great......... then i checked the resistance between the PCB and the actual threaded pin on the gauge.... i had resistance!!!, removed the nut, clened the pcb copper with a wipe of flux, cleaned the copper coated wavy washers in flux paste, purchased new brass nuts to ensure best possible connection..... its perfect, now reads smack in the middle of normal around 90 degrees. lesson is just check the resistance from the temp gauge threaded terminal to the pcb. oh and i checked the second set of gauges and they too had resistance, both had the copper coated wavy washers that were black and both had tarnished zinc plated nuts, i had the idea of new brass nuts from the fact that the Rev Counter 3 nuts to the PCB were all brass, i slightly loosened them and got resistance, tightened them and the resistance dropped off. 😊👍

Leather can be redyed.... fairly easy.... Vinyl??? dont know.... i know on leather you 'strip' the surface coat away and dye the actual skin then apply a sealer coat..... Try ringing Furniture Clinic ive used their kit to go from light grey to black and its excellent on leather.

good to know its normal though.... so cheers Craig😁👍