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Everything posted by V8IAN
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Rich, coming together nicely, getting it to be YOUR car, Its a credit to you mate, Just need to get it to run 12s now, I still wish I still had my old V8, ;) but as you know I havent totally lost the plot, Ian :D My new project, http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/152938/austin-7-box-saloon
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Im looking for the oddball Atlas here, The P100, with the funny stud pattern, prefer in the SE, and sensible money too, free would be nice :thumbup: :thumbup: :closedeyes: :closedeyes: , just to get it out of the way for you, , Can anybody who can help EMail me @ ian.stewart24@hotmail.com A normal atlas will do but I would prefer the P100
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If I can get a lift I hope to do wheels day, normally I would drive myself, but I had another 5 hour procedure on my brain last week, everything seems to have gone well, I was up and chatting as soon as I was awake. but because they have played in my brain, my license has been suspended for a few weeks. and yes I am looking for a new project.
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he has done a bit of paint, and had the rear axle rebuilt, it was a tiny bit noisy when I had it, new fuel pump, and other little odds and sods,
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Hello, Its been a long time since I have been on here, probably, since I sold my Mk2, I found out today its up for sale again, I know there were a couple of people looking to buy it on here but I sold it on the quick due to illness, Im sad to see it for sale, as the fella who bought it, loved it, if anybody is interested its here. http://www.rodsnsods.co.uk/forum/vehicles-sale/mk-2-cortina-77343 Ian
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MK1 Cortina fastback prototype pictures
V8IAN replied to Derskine's topic in Ford Cortina Discussion
The Fastback was produced in limited numbers in oz, -
was it a one year only version of venician red, My mate has a "PINK" RS2000,
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Puts a new slant on it when asked what the condition is like,------ Well its a bit of a Sh-tter,
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My old Mk2 used a mk1 escort cage, Like you, I did not want to lose the rear seat, I fitted the cage as per normal, with welded threaded plates fitted to the arches so the cage was still a "Bolt in" when I was happy with that, I cut the feet off the rear legs flush with the rear seat face, bolted those back into the car, and cut holes for the rear tubes to go thru, I turned up bungs that fitted into the little stubbs of the cage and welded into position, the rest of the cage was then refitted over the bungs, and a 8mm hole drilled thru the cage and stubb, so the whole assy is now capable of being bolted together with Hi Tensile bolts.
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A bright red stripe would work quite well too
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Ooooohhhh sacrilege, old english white, thats a BL colour, Probably be a Ermine white stripe, cant say too much, I painted an anglia in Snowberry white, with an Almond Vert roof, actually looked stunning!!!!!!!! BL and Peugeot colours respectivly
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See if it turns over with the coil disconnected, having too much advance will sometimes cause the engine to fail to turn over, Another thing to try, run a jump lead from the battery earth terminal to the block, making sure you have a good contact at both ends, its worth now clipping the other jump lead onto the starter motor live terminal, making sure its only touching the terminal, now flash the other end onto the live. if nothing happens, you can guess its the battery, I hope you have checked the electrolyte level in the battery,
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is it a wet battery or a Gel Battery, with the wet battery, have you checked the electrolyte level?? if its a Gel, they are a bugger to get to recharge after going flat, I would be tempted to try another battery, off your Daily?? that will eliminate the battery or the car, Fresh engine, there are a few pitfalls with fitting a new engine, and what is it, have you moved the battery to the boot?? is the engine a known engine, is the timing ok, have you changed the gearbox, fit the wrong box and you can nip the engine up tight, can you turn the engine over by hand with a socket on the bottom pulley??
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Assuming you want a later Xmember to get a rack on the Mk2, you really need to use the Capri X member as the escort one is a bit to narrow, and you wold need to modify the X member to fit, I have pictures, I would think the problem you will encounter is finding a non power X member in the US, top mounts will also need changing to get castor/camber adjustments, its all very basic and not really rocket science. Otherwise you keep the original steering and X member then cut n shut the sump pan.
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just to prove you can fit a rover into a Mk2 without cutting the bulkhead, here is my old car,
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May only have been used as a buick engine, and also available as a turbo engine then as well, there are plenty of v8 land rovers and range rovers out there, the v6 buick engine is a truncated 215, but with an overbore,
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Put a 302 in it with a extra short waterpump kit, (Summit) just about fits with a fox mustang or bronco sump, think the bronco sump is better,
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If ever there was a case of stiffer springs and bigger AntiRoll bars I think its right there,!!!!
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Try a quicky by spraying with WD40,
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Very few, if any due to the way Cortina seats are bolted to the shell, most modern seats will bolt to the front using their original subframes, you will have to drill the floor to bolt them in, At the back you will need to fabricate legs so the subframe has something to mount to, I was looking as cars the other day which would yield suitable seats, with pleats going in the right direction, 3 that stuck in my mind were, MGF, Pug 406?? leather trim, and Alfa 156 again leather,
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TWINN TURBO LOTUS V8 CORTINA MK2 BEING BUILT..
V8IAN replied to MK2BLOWS's topic in Ford Cortina Discussion
Alans a member on here, and posts up when he remembers, -
Welding----Fusing of 2 metals together at a molecular level where both parts of the metals melt into each other and become one homogeneous mass.. Brazing,---Joining of 2 metals where the braze will etch into the surface of the metal, and the braze will act like a glue, its as strong as the braze,not the parent metal, Soldering--Gluing of 2 metals, solder will not bond into the surface of the parent metals, it sits on the surface key and is essentially a hot applied glue, and again is only as strong as the solder, Braze will flow into gaps where weld will not, which will give much more surface adhesion, you may well find the odd gas weld, too, Braze was probably used due to it being applied at lower temps than gas welding (less Distortion), its a less skilled method too, but even brazing has skill needed, things to remember, if repairing over braze, If you intend to weld over the braze, it has to be TOTALLY REMOVED from the area, firstly, as braze has a lower melting point than steel, weld over braze the base metals in the braze turn gaseous and permeate into the weld, making the weld very weak, Secondly, Over heat the braze, either in application, or by trying to weld over it, releases Zinc fumes, these fumes are HIGHLY toxic and cause Brain and Nerve damage, same as welding over galvanizing, Leading, not used much again because of its toxicity, which is an accumulative toxin that gets into the brain and stays there, the fumes are toxic, and again overheat it it releases toxic fumes, its hard, almost impossible to braze over, and wont allow its self to be welded over easily. lead dust is also very toxic, which can be ingested into the lungs, so when sanding lead, wear the appropriate safety equipment
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On my travels yesterday, about 2,45 a very clean Mk2 Lotus went past in the other direction heading towards Bexhill, I was sitting at the lights waiting to turn up to the Conquset
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My V8 300 hp mk 2 used to return well in excess of 33MPG on a run, give it welly, it did drop a bit,
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Small Block Ford,V8, about the same weight as an Essex, can be made to produce 500 Horsepower, without resorting to turbos, superchargers or gas, come with T5wc 5 speed boxes, get a late mustang engine, 330hp off the shelf, fit big valve or alloy heads, lumpy cam, good exhaust and 420hp is very easy, go exotic and fit a stroker kit, with decent alloy heads and a good fueling system I would think 600 is not unobtainable,