V8IAN

Im not 100% but I think the mustang bellhousing will cant the box over at an angle of 6degs to the passenger side, real steel sell 2 different bellhousings for the mustang to fit T5s, I have just converted a chevy T5 bellhousing to fit a Chevy T5 with a mustang bolt pattern flange,!!!!, got very confusing, but it really only took a couple of hours to do, remember there are more than 230 different versions of T5 gearboxes available

New discs, braided stainless flexibles, go for the vent upgrade, then buy a good quality pad upgrade, I use EBC GreenStuff, they dont need to warm up, dont dust up, and really are an improvement over standard pads. thats what I use on my cortina, Make sure you use clean and rust free discs, new ones must be degreased, before fitting pads

Yes but a lot of the Capri guys use the Granada/Mk3 Cortina HD calipers (spaced) which have a bigger pad area too and the combination is much better stopping capability agreed, the M18 has a larger pad area, but with the same piston size as the M16, so no master cyl upgrade is needed, The pad area is very nearly the same area as the princess 4 pot

the reason capri discs are no better, is they are the same diameter as the normal cortina discs 248mm, and the capri uses the same calliper and pads as the cortina, but with spacers fitted, hence there is no mechanical advantage over the standard, other than the ability of the vents to cool better and avoid fade either from boiling the fluid or gaseous fade from overheating the pads

Richard, what do you want?

dosent matter, it just need the links to be the same length, have a google of a Mumford link

Watts linkage is the better system, BUT has its own problems with fixing to the body, however it can be mounted on the bottom underside of the diff, this works as well, and can be easier to fix, the advantage of the watts system is it keeps the pivot point parallel to the axle and the axle will only travel along the plain of the pivot point, thats assuming the link bars are the same length!! Panhard bar, thats what I use on my Mk2, far easier to fix, as there is only one body mount, disadvantages are the bar only pivots from one side, so in effect the the bar will keep the axle in position but in a arc, not a major issue in a road car, the bar needs to be as long as possible to lengthen the arc sweep of the bar, another disadvantage is the bar has only one point attached to the body, this puts twice the load on the body mount that a watts linkage will, I will try and post some other options later, but im off to work i na moment

Dosent the glass carry a PN?? if it does, you can cross reference between the models

Very good piece of info, not many people seem to grasp the idea of static and dynamic compression, In my engine, I run a big overlap cam, but stock lift, which has the effect of making a very drivable engine, When I tell people the compression ratios I run, I get a funny look or Im told I am a liar, admittedly, 14-1 cr does sound excessive but its what I run, works out at about 10.5-1 taking the overlap into account. Typically big overlap cams help with engines with breathing problems, giving the engine more time to intake or exhaust gases, and are often used in grp A cams for racing, which have to have stock lift cams and very often stock valve sizes. another unseen advantage of low lift cams, is friction, it takes a fair amount of effort to rotate a cam with stock springs, fit race springs to stop bounce and control rapid valve closing of the valves, as race engines tend to run at higher revs, the rotational forces increase expotentially, this in turn robs the engine of power due to having to squash the HD springs, If the lower lift cam is used the valves do not generally have a harsh cam ramp which can cause bounce and float, the softer cam is kinder to valve train as well. The softer cam will make a better driving engine, with probably more torque than a race engine, making it easier to drive.

Yes, 150 hp is obtainable from a pre x flow, but, the way to do it is use a 1600 block, overbore it to the range of 1760, or if you are lucky 1825, but to go that far you will need to go for a AX block and that is starting to get into big bucks, the head is the secret of the engine, its would need to be something special to get a genuine 150hp, mainly because of the restrictive exhaust ports, and the exhausts warming the fuel mixture will sap power too, Niel at 105speed does have some nice exhaust manifolds, not cheap, but they seem to be able to work well. Any performance engine it is worth fitting good rod bolts, High volume oil pump,Hi pressure, is not really needed as the engine oiling system is reliant on volume rather than pressure, Steel rocker posts are worthwhile if intending to male a revvy engine. and as for 1340s, dont even bother----pile of wa-k, I broke a crank on a standard engine in about 5 mins of owning it,

There are several styles of exhaust manifolds for the RV8, P5, P6, SDi, Range Rover, there are also loads of tight tubular exhaust manifolds made for the hotrod and kit car markets, you can check a lot of these out on EBay, by looking for v8 manifolds on there you will get pictures of different types, may help you make a educated decision, the 4.0 and 4.6 range rovers have stainless tubular manifolds manifolds that have a center exit, covered in heat shields,they look ungainly, and also have a Lambda sensor hole, that has the same thread as a spark plug, or some french sump plugs fit as well, Failing this, have a ask on here, http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/index.php

WHY NOT!!!!!! :icecream: :icecream: :icecream: :icecream: :icecream:

OK this may seem like a long shot, Has anybody got a Glass Fibre boot lid, or even a Glass skin, and really pushing it, a Alloy skin?????

Thats a GOOD deal------- Just for info, the tires are street legal, they are what I use, and they are the are the SPANIELS SPUDS, and they aint bad in the wet either, Just a shame I dont need them!!!!

I think Speedy cables repair them too, but I think there are only 2 different internals made by Smiths, there are 2 different resistances, and I think once you get the right internals its a case of swapping the bits over

Did Cossy Pete have one made??

neither are major jobs, and should be do-able with basic hand tools, The best way to check what the car was failed on is to ask the MOT station to be more specific about the failures,

My BMW has HID headlights, but it does not use them for main beam, it uses the inner set of bulbs which are Halogens, I was told the HIDs are too slow to react when cold, so they use halogens,

Im fairly certain my filler neck is steel, I have a strange feeling they were "Tined" with lead, primarily, I was led to believe to prevent sparking when a filler hose was put in the hole, certainly Mk1 Zephyrs had the neck and tank leaded, I think some Austins did as well

What dia tires are you running? By virtue of the Zetec being 4v they are not a low down torque monster, going to a 3.7 may have acceleration restrictions, but smaller dia tires could help in this respect- then smaller dia tires cause traction problems due to reduced contact area

Now this is a BLACK DOG ----mine on the left :rolleyes:

Have you got a smaller aftermarket steering wheel??, this reduces the amount of leverage the wheel has against the steering effort, simple answer, fit a bigger wheel

Im sure I have seen a set on a US spec car in white, without federal headrests

I think I may have asked before, have you a boot skin mould?

good luck Glen, you are pretty well known within the CF area, is it worth having a punt on RetroRides too, suppose it may be worth staying small till you get yourselves a reputation, then start advertising, again Good luck :thumbup: Ian