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richard 2509

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Everything posted by richard 2509

  1. where did you get the silver mk5 from and how much was it????
  2. i bought a special trim fitting tool as i found it difficult to fit by hand...think it came from frost...the corner pieces pop out using a screwdriver or something similar
  3. door post trim and undo the nuts...when you put it back on shut the door so its engaged with the catch get a nice gap round the door edges then do the nuts up..sounds obvious i know...
  4. if youve got a compressor and all the bits ie a da, gun etc and its "only surface rust" then you can da it back with 320 discs and then prime it in hi-build.if you want to baremetal it then you will have to etchprime it before you hi-build it...
  5. first..why do you want to strip it to baremetal? secondly the options you have listed are the best way of doing it..nitromors is the diy approach
  6. i can tell you what NOT to buy and thats the £10 one from argos...i covered my mk 5 with one over winter and when i took it off it had marked the paintwork so badly i had to repaint the bonnet... :winner:
  7. depends what state the original paint is in and if it is lacquered or in 2k...if its sound you dont need to prime over it just flat it with 400 grit discs on a da...your only problem may be that as i mentioned above if it is in 2k then its quite possible that the old red paint will bleed through, then you will have to go down the primer route..
  8. go with the fineline tape and dont be tempted to use masking tape instead as you will find the paint bleeds under the edge...
  9. i used the same fixings and the same spacings as found on the mk 3 and mk 5 wings...put a bit of seamsealer on as well when (if) you do it...
  10. advantage:you dont have to get the welder out disadvantage:cant think of one.....i bolted the wings on my mk 2 and i think i had to take the doors off to bolt the wing to the a post, cant remember for certain though!!
  11. id still reject it and make you do it again!!! yes...im qc in a bodyshop :unsure: ha ha nice one....i suppose the next thing you will tell me is that your bodyshop still uses cellulose :cheers:
  12. finished job looks great....the only "shortcut" i would have taken was to flat the paint with 1000 grit discs/ 3000 grit discs on a da with an interface pad....ive flatted paintwork before with a block and wet and dry paper and it is a bit soul destroying to say the least :winner:
  13. i havent replied twice to make some type of point its my computer malfunctioning!!!!!! :cheers:
  14. hello....the only advice i can offer is to tell you what kit i use at home to paint cars with and let you make up your own mind about it.....the compressor i have is a sip airmate with a 3hp motor and a 200 litre tank, it has a 13.0 cfm air displacement...it keeps pace with all my air tools and guns except for a cut off tool i bought last summer...ive had smaller compressors but found that i was waiting for air pressure to build up...you will need at least 2 guns for primer,basecoat and lacquer....i use gravity fed guns as they only use the paint you have mixed for the job whereas on a suction type you always have that bit of material wasted that doesnt reach the pickup tube...thats the only reason for me....i use a 2k high build primer and use a gun with a 1.8 fluid tip, this is mixed 4-1-1 with hardener and 2k thinner...for basecoat i have a sealey gravity gun with a 1.4 fluid tip, i use waterbase paint and this is mixed 2-1 with waterbase thinner, i paid about £19 for the gun...i have used it for lacquer but i was able to buy a devilbis gti gun similar to the one i use at work for £80, this has a 1.4 tip and does deliver a better finish and so i now have the 3 guns..i use a 2k clearcoat by RM and mix it 3-1-2 with hardener and 2k thinners...hope this is of some use to you........
  15. hello....the only advice i can offer is to tell you what kit i use at home to paint cars with and let you make up your own mind about it.....the compressor i have is a sip airmate with a 3hp motor and a 200 litre tank, it has a 13.0 cfm air displacement...it keeps pace with all my air tools and guns except for a cut off tool i bought last summer...ive had smaller compressors but found that i was waiting for air pressure to build up...you will need at least 2 guns for primer,basecoat and lacquer....i use gravity fed guns as they only use the paint you have mixed for the job whereas on a suction type you always have that bit of material wasted that doesnt reach the pickup tube...thats the only reason for me....i use a 2k high build primer and use a gun with a 1.8 fluid tip, this is mixed 4-1-1 with hardener and 2k thinner...for basecoat i have a sealey gravity gun with a 1.4 fluid tip, i use waterbase paint and this is mixed 2-1 with waterbase thinner, i paid about £19 for the gun...i have used it for lacquer but i was able to buy a devilbis gti gun similar to the one i use at work for £80, this has a 1.4 tip and does deliver a better finish and so i now have the 3 guns..i use a 2k clearcoat by RM and mix it 3-1-2 with hardener and 2k thinners...hope this is of some use to you........
  16. had similar problems getting work done on my mk2 escort some years ago...ended up by doing it myself...it looked pants but i gradually got better at it and now paint cars for a living...
  17. schutz with added waxoyl for me....or old engine oil!!!!!!
  18. same stuff i use on the rest of the car ie shampoo...is it textured? i have cleaned my roof then gone over it with boot polish! looks great but takes ages!!!
  19. waxoyl has got wax in it and cant be overpainted whereas schutz/stonechip hasnt and can be! waxoyl is especially useful inside box sections, sills etc. if you are going to spray it on in cold weather stand the tin in hot water and/or dilute it with thinners to help it to go on better...when you buy it make sure you get the right product as schutz/stonechip is sold with or without waxoyl added.....
  20. what paint do you use now and where do you do your painting?
  21. mmm...why dont you put a patch over for now and when you get more proficient with the welder cut the whole sill off and weld a new one on....
  22. if the last 8 inches of the sills are "gone" you are likely to find the inners knackered as well....goodluck
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