richard 2509
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Everything posted by richard 2509
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daft question....is fuel getting through?
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it is practical for a full repaint if you can shelve out for enough ir heaters or panel driers...the paint will go off eventually airdrying but it takes at least a couple of days (summer weather)...all the time its taking dont forget that all sorts of dust and crap are landing in it!!...
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you will still be able to buy 2k direct gloss paint...its just solvent based paint thats not going to be available...you will have the option of waterbase basecoat and a 2k clearcoat over the top, the 2k direct gloss or i think that cellulose will be available in small quantities at specialist suppliers....
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How about the curing/drying? I take it you don't need an oven or drying room then? i use waterbased paints in my garage at home and use a combination of hot air gun and ir heater to cure the paint...wouldnt want to tackle a full repaint with waterbase though...
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you dont sound particularly lucky with this car!!!!! hopefully you are due for a change of fortune!!!
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just been trawling the posts and came across yours, not too late i hope but your capri is cardinal red...the code is "R" the code for rosso red is 2YP
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bad luck mate...hopefully just a fuse?...when i ran mine on an extention lead it tended to blow them regularly....
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ive heard of resprays offered for £150 by garages that are short of work (draw your own conclusions)and up to around the £1200 mark....depends whether you do your own prepwork, masking etc. etc....ive heard a lot of nonsense regarding resprays ie its got to be baremetal or its got to be an ovenbaked finish, if your after a "reasonable" job then anything between £400-£800 sounds about right imo
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hello....there was hardly any texture to it, there were no seams in it either, i was so disappointed with it that i ripped it off some time later and painted the roof instead....this was 15 years ago so maybe the quality from east kent has improved, i suggest you ask for a sample....
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..after you have rattlecan primered and its dry rub your hand over it, it feels a bit rough yes?...nib it means just smooth it over...use 500 by hand....if you are priming it yourself with 2k are you not tempted to do the topcoat colour as well?...its really not that difficult you know....
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have mentioned this before...i bought a vinyl roof kit from east kent trim supplies, i found it easy to fit with help from one person...BUT it dont look anything like vinyl roofs as fitted to mark 3,4 and 5 models...in fact the vinyl roof i sprayed on a mark 3 using STONECHIP looked far better, i even put the seams in it AND it did not run or get sticky in hot sunshine....
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hello...i can understand your bodyshop mate not approving of using rattlecan primer if its layed on really thickly to build up repaired areas, there is a good chance that it will sink later on, you really must use a 2k hi-build primer for this purpose....get hold of some acrylic stopper to fill small scratches/pinholes, flat it down with 800 grade paper wet on a block, cover it with rattlecan primer... when the rattlecan primer is dry just nib it down with 800 dry or 500 by hand...
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hello..if youve given the paint supplier the right code then the colour will be correct...from what you say the paint is 2k ie a 2 part paint...colour and an activator...this is a one hit paint job as opposed to a basecoat and a 2k lacquer over the top....
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its looking good...where youve gone through the primer just blow it in with rattlecan primer...another tip i can give you is to get hold of some panel wipe and put it on your panels really wet and this will enable you to see if it is "straight" enough for paint....
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when you go through to baremetal with the da just use aerosol primer to reprime...if it "pickes" up just dust it on and blow it dry with your airline...try an acrylic primer as they dont have so much solvent in them and its the solvent tht causes probs...as for amount of paint i would suggest 4 litres of base and 2 litres of lacquer..best to ask the bloke who is doin the painting...
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wet flatting is something you do when painting a car in a pale metallic eg silver etc....its crucial to get any scratches out of the primer and get it really smooth or they show up when the car is lacquered...non metallic finish you can get away with just 500 grade disc flatting..use the da on the fasted speed...filler primer is the way to go as it will cover any imperfections in the repairs...guide coat it with a black aerosol so when you flat it it will leave the black in any low spots...
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in a word...no....if you are flatting it with 240 then you will have to prime the whole car to cover the scratches..have you got a da?..if you have flat the car with 500 grit discs...filler under the primer?...block it with 320 grit strips then da it with 500 discs.what type of paint are you using? 2k or base and laquer....
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i need to buy tawny metallic paint
richard 2509 replied to Mrsnmonkey220's topic in Bodywork & Paint
if you are buying aerosols then there will be only one shade if you are buying basecoat then yes there will be the possibility of several variants...if its for a respray then it wont matter...if its for a repair then the colour can be blended...try paints4u as a supplier -
no its the other way round...the rattle can i have is diamond white and is creamier than whats on the car (BA on the chassis plate....) car must have been resprayed...anyone suggest a whiter white than diamond white for me? your only chance is to take the petrol flap to a bodyshop and ask them to chip it up for you....
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BA is ermine white and yes it is creamier than diamond white
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my advice would be do it properly or leave it as it is...i once resprayed a car with rattle cans (many years ago)and it looked so terrible that it spurred me into learning how to paint with proper guns etc...
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thanx everyone...got it freed off after about 10 attempts! got muscles like popeye with pushing it back down drive for another go
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ok i will try that but i should have mentioned the car has no doors or wings on!!! will have to try the method on my drive...hope 25 metres before the wall will be enuff!!!!
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hello...got a prob with my gxl. i put it away in the garage some months ago and now i cant free the clutch off...ive started it in gear with my feet on the clutch and brake pedals with no success...has anyone got a failsafe method i could try??? please dont say ive got to unbolt the gearbox!!!
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hi ...i couldnt find suitable sized pinstripes at my local motorfactors..i eventually found them at a panel and bodyshop supplier...hope this helps