richard 2509

try wire wool for getting overspray off glass (and window rubbers)

basically yes...everyone has there own method. i fill then block down with 80 grit. if necessary more filler if ive missed a bit, more 80 grit, then 240 then 500 on a da. brush prime or spray, just the repair and a bit of overlap if you have scratched round the repair area. guide coat it then 320 on a block.if it reveals any pinholes etc then put stopper in it.finish flatting with 500 discs/800 wet and dry if its metallic, make sure the whole panel is keyed for paint (should have been done first by the way, use scotchbrite or 1000 discs) basecoat till covered then 2 coats of lacquer, 1 sticky then 1 heavy. flat the crap out with 1000 discs then 3000 discs then polish with g6 on a power mop--job done. sounds like you work in a "bonus" shop!!! sorry...not with you on that one???

you forgot...5.carry a bag of cement in the boot on the higher side :cheers:

do you not have the vin plate info? if you want to supply me with it i will put it in the computer at work and see what results....

just be grateful that its not a mk2 granada...... :unsure:

the sills on my mk 5 were in a similar state, i didnt have any of the lip on the floor to sill left. had to weld a strip of steel along there first to make a lip to spotweld the new sill to , then trimmed it of later with the grinder. amazing what you find when you start digging :cheers:

at least you are taking the old ones off!!!!!!! :rolleyes:

use the lambswool, drop of clean water and if it doesnt shift it a drop of compound. its ok to wax it when you are happy with the finish, i use autoglym resin polish as it is not "agressive" like some waxes......by which i mean it doesnt "cut" the surface....for a first time repaint it looks great!!!

righto....when you say you can scratch the marks off gently then it sounds like its just a residue left on the surface. did you use water ( sparingly ) with the compound?...also you have to clean the mophead quite regularly as it gets clogged up with excess compound....just run it and use your fingers on it...to get the residue of just go over it again with the polisher and a drop of clean water...dont do it in bright sunlight....if youve burnt thru you will soon notice as it damages the paint surface..you are more likely to go thru on edges and swage lines....the job looks nice in the pics by the way.....

when you say you cant shut the boot are you giving it a right good slam...as your old rubber was at least 40 years old it must have been well compressed. be brave and give it a go!!!!!

basically yes...everyone has there own method. i fill then block down with 80 grit. if necessary more filler if ive missed a bit, more 80 grit, then 240 then 500 on a da. brush prime or spray, just the repair and a bit of overlap if you have scratched round the repair area. guide coat it then 320 on a block.if it reveals any pinholes etc then put stopper in it.finish flatting with 500 discs/800 wet and dry if its metallic, make sure the whole panel is keyed for paint (should have been done first by the way, use scotchbrite or 1000 discs) basecoat till covered then 2 coats of lacquer, 1 sticky then 1 heavy. flat the crap out with 1000 discs then 3000 discs then polish with g6 on a power mop--job done.

if thats the hardest bit to do on the car then you are a lucky so and so!!!!!seriously i would fibreglass it but then im a bit of a shortcut merchant!!

after youve degreased it and stripped it you need to scotchbrite it or 500 disc it to key the surface for paint. if you dont it may peel off. etch prime any bare metal bits, and yes you can lacquer it.

if you are brush priming try a product called "reface" its a 2 part primer and it goes on really thick. i also spray it with a 1.8 spraygun setup.

i paint using 2k hs lacquers at home in the garage. its dry enough the next day for the aforementioned flatting routine and a polish with g6 which is as you rightly say rapid grade.you will notice if your paint is not "fully cured" as it will need polishing again a few days later as it cures back. it will look dull and patchy. if you are leaving it till next week then it will be cured definately by then. good luck.

i had a vinyl roof from east kent and fitted it myself. it went on ok with no major problems but doesnt look like the ford original. it is smooth not textured. i am also the bloke who, when i ran out of time on another project actually stonechipped my roof. it went to a classic ford tour run and was only noticed when someone asked me why there were no seams on it.

most on the market fillers are the same, get one that says easy sanding if you can. by the way if you are filling holes (shock horror!) then use fibreglass first as it is more resistant to water. use ordinary filler to skim over the top.

blast!! just got back from hols and could have saved you loads of work!!!!! what you needed to do was flat your orange peely paintwork with 1000 grit discs on an interpad then wet flat it with 3000 discs all on your da sander then you could polish it with rapid grade farecla compound using a power mop----job done. all these bits and pieces are available on the internet by the way....

you say that the paint match is "way off"...dont forget that the wheels on the car are going to be 6 feet apart and you wont notice...you could always paint 2 of them!!! i used 5 wheel silver on mine then put a coat of lacquer on them and it toned them down quite a bit...i find that 5 weel silver is too bright...

they look like mk 5 bits to me....have you tried fitting them?....my old overiders were rusted on the fixings letting water in which attacked the rubber and deformed them...perhaps thats the problem here....

depends how big a dent/ easy access to back of dent etc.....if you can get behind it bash it out with a hammer. if you cant drill a few holes in and use a dent puller on it ....you will have to use filler on it, the less the better........

" bloom " is an effect you get in cellulose paint if you paint in cold conditions, it leves a milky effect in it. using "anti-bloom" thinners counters this....

hello single pack paint is what it says it is, you use it straight from the tin. if youve already got cellulose then as stated in another reply 2.5 litres will be enough.i dont think you can get cellulose anymore anyway. i paint cars in my garage at home and i am self taught so if you need any advice or tips etc. get in touch. stop press! go on paints4u website they sell cellulose!!!

what is the name of the manufacturer? (must get one myself)

has it got any mot left? :rolleyes: :ph34r: