richard 2509

hello its fairly unusual to get paint reaction using 2k products, if i get any problems with reaction i wetflat it out and put 2k primer or lacquer over it. there is a product called barcoat which is an isolator, you flat out any problems and then spray it over the affected area. it comes ready for use (1k). after its dry you only need to denib it and then paint over it . hope this helps

well there you are then i didnt realise it and a lot of other people will be in the same situation.. ebay need to get their house in order imo

Yes - its a members of the LCR. He is aware of the scams and is none too pleased. Well I have reported to ebay I sugest he reports it to the police . sorry am i missing something here whats the scam

hello... replacing arches is not too difficult....its getting the old ones off, while trying to leave a bit of inner arch to attach new ones to. run your angle grinder along the arch edge till you can seperate it, measure how much metal you have on your new panel, mark it up and cut out your rusty bits! i put a step on the edges so the new fits under the old and then tack it on . too much heat will distort it so weld it at 3 to 4 inch intervals. i finish off with lead (it dont sink!)and a skim of filler. if you havent got any inner arch then dont use filler on it as it soaks up water, fibreglass is better. by the way itis very difficult to stick new arches over old as they just will not fit at all, perhaps its just the repairs he did on your inners that you can see?

waterbased paint is suitable to overpaint any previous paint finish ie 2k. cellulose, solventbase etc.( if anything its easier from the point of there being no solvent in it to attack underlying coatings). the colours are the same its just the solvent content which has been reduced/eliminated. its more difficult to work with at home in the garage as it needs to be force dried before laquering. obviously water evaporates much more slowly than solvent. i have my own methods of force drying waterbase paint in my own garage. on your other point about suitability of waterbase over 2k primer there is no problem whatsoever, we do it at work now. dont forget that its the same 2k system as top coats your only problem would be drying the waterbase before laquering (presuming that you are painting at home ? )

thanks for the tough question!!!! i work in a large vehicle refurbishment shop. we paint about 100 cars a day, not many full resprays but small to medium repair work etc. as we obviously use a lot of material we have to comply with legislation which has enforced the use of waterbased paint from january 2007 onwards. we still use 2k laquer ie a lacquer with an activator but it has a lower voc ( voluble organic compound ) content which is better for the environment. the old solvent based paint and 2k laquers we used to use had a much higher voc content. i believe that the legislation only affects certain size bodyshops based on volume of repair work etc. so this probably means that 2k paint will still be available in reduced amounts. the best people to ask for confirmation would be your paint supplier. when i work at home i use waterbase for small jobs and solventbasecoat for anything medium upwards.i buy my paint via work with no problems. 163741[/snapback] right ive got some more info on paint availability. was talking to our paint rep today and he told me that no more solvent basecoat or 2k paint is being produced. any remaining stocks will be gone "sometime this year". basically he told me the options for painting your car next year would be if it was a solid colour ie ermine white, daytona yellow etc you could use direct gloss which is a 2k hs product. if the car was metallic then only waterbase was the option.( the solid colours are available waterbase as well) . feel free to make your own enquiries on this

absolutely ... get it steam cleaned first then you will be able to see what needs doing to it to get it a1

ask about steamcleaning no need to take the engine out.

thanks for the tough question!!!! i work in a large vehicle refurbishment shop. we paint about 100 cars a day, not many full resprays but small to medium repair work etc. as we obviously use a lot of material we have to comply with legislation which has enforced the use of waterbased paint from january 2007 onwards. we still use 2k laquer ie a lacquer with an activator but it has a lower voc ( voluble organic compound ) content which is better for the environment. the old solvent based paint and 2k laquers we used to use had a much higher voc content. i believe that the legislation only affects certain size bodyshops based on volume of repair work etc. so this probably means that 2k paint will still be available in reduced amounts. the best people to ask for confirmation would be your paint supplier. when i work at home i use waterbase for small jobs and solventbasecoat for anything medium upwards.i buy my paint via work with no problems.

no problem be only to happy to help

ive seen one of these cars before. it was at billing in the early 90,s and was called "SHORTINA" perhaps its the same one??

at 300 ish quid you cant really go wrong. as you said yourself it is 40 years old!!!

hi why do you want to remove it? is it rotten or something? the easiest way would be to weld it up in situ fit a new headlining and your new bvr. 162870[/snapback] hello any bodyshop will give you a price for this work . but they will probably repair what youve got rather than replace a piece of steel with another piece of steel the same size! then weld it up fill/lead load it etc. on the subject of vinyl roofs i bought one for a mk 5 i owned about 10 years ago and it looked pretty awful compared to the factory fitted version . perhaps the quality has improved? you might be amused with this story ...some years ago i was preparing a car for a european trip, i ordered a vr but it didnt come in time so i put stonechip on the roof!!!! it looked okay from about 5 feet away and fooled a lot of people!!! 162876[/snapback] makes a mess in the summer when it melts!!!! seen this done, does look ok from 5ft.......... in winter!!! :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: 163006[/snapback] are we talking about the same sort of stonechip here ? the one with waxoyl in does melt/go soft. mine certainly hasnt if it did id be in real trouble as the bottom 4 inches of the car is covered in it as well!!!!!

yes i did . only got one gxl now. am i right in thinking that you are brett of classic ford tour fame??? 162869[/snapback] Hello Richard , yes I am Brett good to hear from you,hope you are keeping well, are you going on the Cortina's to Cortina run this year?, and which GXL did you keep ,is it the white one? I will have to miss the Classic Ford run this year unfortunately. 163001[/snapback] brett how are you i thought it was you... pretty sure im going on the classic ford tour, just waiting for confirmation. hope to be going with jon hill the photographer as brother jon has moved to cornwall and cant make it. as for cortinas unfortunately cant go as weve had to book hols almost 10 months in advance. only got the trip dates a couple of weeks ago. have you still got your 2.3 estate and if you go to cortina are you going in that? yes i kept the white gxl the blue one went for 550 without mot. also new owner wants me to paint it for him.

good advice earlier regarding having the sniff test done by your local garage. firstly i would change the oil and filter though.if you only do short journeys and havent changed oil recently then it could be just that

hi the bit the other side of the wheelarch comes on a sill replacement OR on the end of a replacement wheelarch panel either way chop off the bit you need OR make your own from a sheet of steel.

hi why do you want to remove it? is it rotten or something? the easiest way would be to weld it up in situ fit a new headlining and your new bvr. 162870[/snapback] hello any bodyshop will give you a price for this work . but they will probably repair what youve got rather than replace a piece of steel with another piece of steel the same size! then weld it up fill/lead load it etc. on the subject of vinyl roofs i bought one for a mk 5 i owned about 10 years ago and it looked pretty awful compared to the factory fitted version . perhaps the quality has improved? you might be amused with this story ...some years ago i was preparing a car for a european trip, i ordered a vr but it didnt come in time so i put stonechip on the roof!!!! it looked okay from about 5 feet away and fooled a lot of people!!!

hi why do you want to remove it? is it rotten or something? the easiest way would be to weld it up in situ fit a new headlining and your new bvr.

yes i did . only got one gxl now. am i right in thinking that you are brett of classic ford tour fame???

load some pics? ive only just managed to switch the computer on !!! it keeps sending a message to me Hello this is your computer and you dont know what you are doing do you?

hi id like to introduce myself, my name is richard and i live in northants. ive owned cortinas for 30 years and currently have a 2.3 v6 ghia and a 2000 gxl. my hobby has always been the bodywork side of things. i have to admit that although i can service my cars the mechanics i leave to my local garage.anyway over the years i have taught myself to weld,repair and paint. 5 years ago i managed to get a job in the trade as a paint mixer and have moved up to prep and painting in the booth. if any members need help and advice concerning bodywork etc i would be more than happy to help if i can!

hi i borrowed one of these from work to try in my garage at home .first of all you need a big compressor to drive it (mine is 3hp and 200 litres)and secondly it tends to blow dust etc all over your freshly painted panels . dust extraction would be ideal but is beyond the home painter. my method of drying waterbased paints is to use a hot air gun. i also bought an infra red heater(not an infrared panel drier) for about 80 quid and this speeds it up a bit. obviously if you have to paint an entire sideyou would need about 3 of them.