disco_monkey79

Thanks for the reply. The trouble is your link is to an SAE tool which commonly have the bits to make single and double. I believe cortinas use the DIN (metric) system, the tools tend to only form a mushroom/bubble, which makes me wonder how they affix to a male fitting, eg the rear flexi line

Thanks for the reply. But how do I re-do in DIN? The tool only has one former/shaper, to make the bubble. The other end is to set the depth of the pipe in the tool.

Hiya I am really hoping for a simple answer, as I have read various things that have merely confused my simple brain. I need to replace the rather grotty hard lines, and so... Question 1: should these be DIN? Assuming yes, then the bubbles for the male fittings are straightforward enough. But what about for the female fittings, e.g. where the main line (running the length of the car) meets the rear flexi hose? The flexi hose is male, so the hard line needs to be female. But DIN tools only appear to make single flares (unlike SAE which contain tooling to make single (convex) flares, or double (concave) flares). Question 2: to make a female fitting, do I make a single bubble flare (same as for male), and this crushes against the male fitting to form the seal? Many thanks

I have bought braided hoses - the original ones were junk, so took the chance to upgrade. But I haven't fitted them yet - this was more to make sure everything would bolt together, and would my 13" slotmag still fit (yes, phew). They came with brake pads. I don't think they are anything particularly exciting, but I will bear in mind about EBC. I will add detail as I actually get things hooked up and functioning.

Hiya, Just putting this here for info purposes. I got a pair of recon/remanufacturedAustin Princess 4-pot calipers, to hopefully give a bit more anchoring assistance. With Capri vented discs I found that I needed 7.5mm spacers between the caliper and the upright/spindle bearer, to get the disc centered in the caliper. Thanks

Apologies if this isn't allowed. The sale is nothing to do with me, but these are scarce and there usually seems to be someone looking for one. https://www.facebook.com/share/17VZfKYutp/

Thanks for that - got a pair ordered. FIngers crossed, because if that resolves it, I can out it back on the ground for the first time in months.

P.s. The old ones are knackered, otherwise I would just use them

Does anywhere still sell cortina inner tie rods? And if so, where? Internet is failing me. I have been refitting the front suspension and steering. Whilst the sierra rack looked the right length off the car, both wheels are now toe out, so the sierra rods are too long I just measured the cortina arms that came off the car and they are 30mm shorter, so would certainly help. Thanks

I'll leave this here. Closest it's getting to my driveway. But each to their own. https://www.facebook.com/share/176fTQh23m/

Thanks both - I will give one of those a go if the box spanner is still too big.

Hmmm, excellent point. Logic suggests there has to be a way to do it in place. I will pop round my Dad's and see what I can pinch!

Apologies if this is a thread hijack, but it's fairly related. This is the wheel I will (eventually) be fitting to mine. Weirdly the hole in the centre is too small for a socket, so I either have to fit the boss, and then attach the wheel, or leave a sacrificial socket permanently in there, and ignore the inevitable rattle. Any thoughts on how I can neatly increase the centre hole? A hole saw is out, as the centre hole is way bigger than the hole saw's guiding bit. And the diameter of the wheel is too much for my lathe bed. I could drill a long series of small holes, but that will take ages and not be very neat. Yes, it will (probably) ultimately be hidden by a centre piece, but I would still prefer to do it neatly than just hack at it. Thanks!

Very nice!! I like it.

Disregard - with some elbow grease, and some actual grease, they popped on fairly easily. Ta.

As per the title it's time to fit the bushes to the bar and put it on the car, but... The poly bushes are one-piece, with no slit in them (I e. They are a continuous loop. I nipped one up in the wood wice, but when squished it's still too tight to get over the ring at the end of the ARB. Do I just need to be more forceful? Or should it have had a slit along the bottom, like the ones I removed? Thanks

You don't need a mk3 to join. I joined (MK4 owner) in order to buy some bits they only offer to members

Thanks - is that with the knob facing outwards?

Hiya all. So I went for Gaz adjustables, and spent the afternoon refitting the front suspension. I currently have it so the adjusting knob is facing outwards - is that how you all have it? Currently it is upper and lower wishbones, spring, shock and spindle, The adjuster is a bit fiddly to get to, and that;s without hub, disc, and backing plate, I just wanted to check how best to have it before I commit and bolt everything else back on. Thanks!

Mine's a '79, so a mere baby.

This is the distance from the metal of the dash to the face of the wheel on my MK4. I had the same issue as you are finding on my Capri (many years ago) which had a mountney style wheel. I figured it was cos it moved the wheel further back and thus reduced leg room. I intended to get a spacer ring made, but wrote the car off before I had the opportunity. Ooops.

Posting this in case it's of assistance to anyone. A manual cortina rack next to a steel cased sierra PAS rack. Also there is a MK3 Granada/Scorpio alloy PAS rack. As can be seen it's the same dimensions and basic layout as the sierra one (they are, I am told, interchangeable, and use different length arms to allow for the different width of vehicle). But the pipe layout on the Granada rack would require more chopping about of the cortina crossmember, which I was reluctant to do. Which is a pity as it's notably lighter than the steel one. Anywho, wanted to share a picture before I stuck it on the car.

Is it to do witht he aftermarket wheel boss? Ie has it moved the wheel forwards or back, relative to where the standard wheel would sit? Sounds like you may be on to this, but thought I would chime in anyway. I am 6' 7", so will be moving the seat further back, as well as changing the wheel. Stoopid legs.

Thanks for the heads-up. I have got some stainless steel rubber-coated p-clips ordered.

Brill, thanks both