disco_monkey79

Happy weekend. Not sure if this should sit in the bodywork section, but here goes... I am FINALLY staring to bolt bits back on the car, and re-attached the brake line underneath, as I can see where it routes back up to the servo/MC. But could someone kindly share a pic of how/where the hard fuel line runs up in to the engine bay? I don;t trust anything that was done previously on this car so don;t want to blindly follow the previous owner's example. I dare say it would be pretty obvious if the engine were in (it's getting a 2.8, BTW) but I am trying to get all the underneath stuff done before dropping it back down. Many thanks

Thanks for letting me know. Cheers

Thanks for your message. How much please, if you do have one? Thanks

Thanks for checking

Brill, thanks.

As per the title, I am after a front lower wishbone in good condition. Mine has been bent and attached with an angle grinder by someone. Posted to Kent, UK, please. Thanks

Yeah, cement dust is bad news. The council rendered a gable wall near my old home without giving notice to anyone. Came home from work to find my car (which had been parked nearby) coated. It wrecked the clear coat and left the car looking like dogsh!t.

Thanks both - got some ordered. Have a good week

Howdy With rain stopping outdoor play I have been cleaning up suspension parts in anticipation of putting them back on the car. I got the upper wishbone bolt undone and removed when pulling it from the car. But the bush sleeve at the bolt head end is stuck on tight. I ground a flat face on one side so I could clamp it in the vice, and by working back and forth with a breaker bar (plus plenty of lube - it is Valentines weekend, after all) I can rotate it on the shaft of the bolt, but it doesn;t want to come off. How freely available are replacements? I can simply grind it til the sleeve comes off, but these look to be high tensile bolts and I am wary of putting too much heat in and screwing thr temper of the steel. Or am I overthinking? Thanks

Dunno what wheel/tyre combo you have, but skinnier tyres would make it easier to turn the wheel at low speed. Also a standard steering wheel, as opposed to a smaller diameter motolita/springalex etc etc.

Thanks for the tip, but apparently not - they only have ARB bushes on their website.

Much obliged. If nothing else it would be handy to know what I am fitting! I have polyushed it and will be getting snazzy shocks. I am on the hunt for a chunkier ARBs but will have to go with standard for the time being. Thanks again.

Do you know the lb rating for standard V6 springs? Ignoring the potentially iffy ebay sellers (who proclaim suitable for all models regardless of engine type!!), the only ones I can find are 275lb at Burton Power. I was hoping to go firmer than standard, but it seems like it's these or nothing. I looked on Rally Design but they don;t seem to stock 'tina springs any more/ Thanks

Your contributions to this forum are invaluable

Love the Nova, but its door/canopy - it looks super-cool but would surely be infuriating to live with? I would be interested to know how to the OP finds gull wings work in the real world.

Sory I can't help re coilovers as I have no experience with them. Adjustable shocks and lowered springs are available for Mk3/4/5 though (Burton Power etc) Excellent purchase - please keep us updated! Is that one one with gull wing doors?

Thanks very much for the reply. With MAPP gas and a BFH I got them to this. Not perfect but closer to being a matching pair...

Hi kids As can be seen, the front bumper brackets from my car look like wet spaghetti - I guess the previous owner was a devotee of touch-parking? Anywho, is does the one on the left look like they're supposed to? Or is the long straight bit at the back supposed to be at 90 degrees to the very front bit? If anyone can share a piccy of unmangled brackets that would be much appreciated. many thanks

Thanks - here you go... Assuming I haven;t seriously stuffed up then it should bolt on in the standard place via the 2 chain links at the back

With January being its usual cr*ppy self, I figured time to play indoors, and finish something I started aaaaages ago. Internal door handles... I always thought chain-link steering wheels looked cool AF, but assumed they'd be horrid to actually use. So thought I would pinch the concept for something else. They will be painted black and silver, but need to gclean off all the annoying spatter first.

Brill, thanks. I figured it had to be the case, but wanted a 2nd opinion. Ta!

Hi. So the Sierra arms and cortina rod ends arrived. They all attach to each other, and give the same overall length as the cortina rack I removed rfom the car, so that all appears good. However, a follow-up question if I may. A google search suggests a 55lb-ish torque setting for attaching the rod to the rack. But the shape of it prevents use of a torque wrench. Is it a case of heaving it tight, and using some loc-tite for good measure? Also each end of the rack has a small notch (a.k.a. wee hole) at the end of the internally-threaded section. Is that so it can be peened over (if that's the right terminology) to act as a locking measure? I had a squint at the Haynes, but it was its usual vague self. Thanks

Thanks Craig. I have ordered the above, and will confirm either way once it all arrives.

Hello, merry Chrismas, and happy new year. I am sure I have seen this on this site but cannot now find. I have adapted my crossmember to take the Sierra rack, so now I need to order the track rods and TREs, as the rack came with neither. From memory I think I need Sierra rods, and Cortina TREs. Can anyone confirm? Many thanks p.s. in case this is of use to anyone. Mk3 granada/ugly Scorpio racks are the same width (28") as Sierra, and use longer track rods to allow for the fact that the cars are wider. BUT the alloy Granny rack I ordered is quite a bit chunkier so would have required more chopping of the Cortina cradle. I opted to order a steel-bodied Sierra rack instead, which is a bit less "fat". It was also cheaper, luckily.

Brill, thanks. I will bear this in mind if mine turns out to be no good. It's plenty scabby-looking, but may still be functional. Thanks