wolfrace

Hi folks, For sale my 2 door mk3. Essex V6, 5spd Genuine Savage bonnet (rarest part I can think of on a mk3) It’s a 3.0 Essex v6 that I believe was bored out to 3.1 according to the Classic Ford magazine feature done on the car a number of years ago, I don’t have any paperwork to support that though. It will need tuning and trailering away. Work required as far as I know. Since fitting a brand new 38 carb it needs tuning, probably floats adjusting and fuelling setting up. It might require a new ‘W’ spacer plate under the carb, it just has a generic one currently. Sort the ignition timing, maybe reroute a couple of the fuel hoses (I’ve run all the hard lines using kunifer and used quality gates barricade hoses) want the cooling system bleeding. The windscreen washer jets need plumbing up and the interior light switches for the door jambs need sourcing and fitting. Then you’ll want to MOT it. Obviously it’s MOT exempt and that’s your choice but it was my plan to put one on it anyway. There may be other things, there always is with old cars. With all that in mind you will need to trailer it away. I can send you a vid of me driving the car to at least show it runs. It might seem straight forward stuff, & it is if you have some spare time - I don’t, having a young family and massive house renovations taking up all my time. It’s parked in the garage at my folks house & I rarely (like 2 or 3 times in the last year) get over for a few hours to work on it. Heres a list of parts fitted/work done; Mechanical / Suspension: Steel timing gear Lumenition electronic ignition New genuine Weber 38 carburettor (£300) Stainless steel side exit exhausts (both sides) New front and rear crank oil seals (burton power) New spigot bearing New gaskets; sump, inlet, fuel pump, front timing cover, carb, rear oil seal carrier, rocker gasket (from burton power) New H/T fixings including new studs for: exhaust manifolds, carb, oil pump and thermostat housing. New upper and lower front ball joints o/s and n/s New trackrod ends New steering rack gaiters New floflex Polybushed front subframe New floflex Polybushed subframe to chassis mounts New steering column bearing New front brake flexis New GAZ adjustable front dampeners Upgraded 18mm front ARB New starter motor (rare version for this engine & gearbox combo) at a cost of £260 New remote starter motor solenoid I’ve replaced all but one of the fuel hoses with Gates Barricade New Kunifer fuel lines. Electrically: New old stock interior wiring loom Reconditioned headlamp backing plates and chrome trim rings, all adjusters work. New domed glass headlights New upgraded ceramic headlight H4 sockets New old stock indicator units New TIM voltage, oil temperature gauges. Tim oil pressure gauge New ISO radio harness LED cluster fitted into rear numberplate housing. Interior: GT/GXL Centre console GT Tombstone seats re-trimmed in genuine leather (and rear seat and door cards) New 3 piece carpet New carpet underlay New bitumen/aluminium floor sound insulation pads New old stock Rear seatbelts installed All vent pipes and the air distribution unit were removed and cleaned out when dash was out then refitted and joints sealed with duct tape. Floor painted before bitumen pads installed. Wheels & tyres: Steel 13” minilight style, freshly shot blasted and powdercoated. 185/70/13 rear 175/70/13 front Bodywork: Various sections repaired with new panels & solidly welded repairs sections. PU seam-sealed, painted with a quality zinc primer then top coated before being undersealed where required. Chassis rails, box sections, front & rear inner valances and inside doors, rear quarters etc were spray filled with pre-heated cavity wax after welding was undertaken. All the usual rot areas on cortinas (sills, front floor pans, subframe chassis mounts, rear valance, inner wing top rails, have been addressed or were stripped back and checked) Savage bonnet Bonnet pins Price £13500 or offers. I am willing to negotiate & open to offers, I can remove the bonnet for a decent discount and supply it with a steel (vented) one. Just try me, I’m not going to get all upset if you can’t offer what I want so don't be shy. However I’m not interested in a swap / part ex (never seems to stop people asking though eh…) location: Oswestry If there’s anything you want to know, give me a shout. I don’t get on BSC frequently thesedays but will be checking PM’s periodically so please bear with me.

Thanks Craig!

Hiya, Does anybody know the thread pitch / diameter for the Front Calliper brake hose fittings on the MK3? I think both the calliper and brake line are the same. Also does anyone know the length of said hoses, IIRC the Pre Facelift and Facelift are different but it'd be handy to know both lengths. It's the calliper ones I really need to know rather than the little PFL 3 way or rear hose. Many thanks, Rich

Good to see you’re still into the custom look. Mk3-5’s wear it well in my opinion. I’m hoping to have your old car back on the road this year after i’ve finished the work on it, hopefully I’ll get to some shows next year and you’ll get to see it again.

I like the p100, looks a good project. I’ve got one of your old cars currently, the 2dr with the savage bonnet.

Thanks folks thats genuinely a big help. I couldn't find anything online. I fitted another rack the other week but noticed a slight amount of play that i wasn't happy with so that came off, hopefully this one is ok, dont fancy £240 for a new one 😬

Cheers Steve but this is a manual rack, not a power rack, not even sure what the method for getting fluid into one is. Couldn’t find anything in the Haynes manual. I had to change the boots as they were past their best.

Hello, does anyone know the correct oil & quantity to use in the steering rack please? thanks, Rich

Looking today the bolt isn't longer but the spacing on the arms is (at least the two pairs I have) can anyone confirm this? .

Just as a heads up.. looking at the upper arms in pics or next to each other you won’t notice but on the FL they are actually a greater distance between the bushes, I should imagine the tube on the crossmember is longer too to accommodate and (as I have noticed) the bolt holding the on the upper arm on is longer on a FL too, it’s around a 1cm difference so no way the upper arms from a FL are going on the pfl clip or vice versa, unless you can use washers to make up the difference on a PFL subframe. Not sure that’d be advisable though.. Now the reason i resurrected this thread because I’ve just wasted time and effort restoring the subframe FL upper arms to go on my PFL clip, assuming as you would, they are the same. It never occurred to me to check as the consensus is they are the same.

I think a lot of problems stem from waste and over consumption so we have basically created the issues we face. Frustrating for those of us who’ve made an effort most of our lives not to wast things... Wasting food, wasting fuel with poor driving habits etc etc etc. If your house isn’t adequately insulated it wastes energy, it may not even be much so people ignore it or find it acceptable but it’s not just one individual doing this it’s billions of people worldwide.

Looking good. Is that a mk5 front subframe giving you the camber? Considering using a spare fl subframe on my pfl because I have a bolt stuck on stripping mine, the top wishbone pivot. Can’t get the f***er to shift. Maybe see if I can get it pressed out as a last resort unless anyone has any ideas.

looking great so far :)

One thing to remember is the rear wheels sit further inboard than the front. The front will have the most poke on those wheels. I have 17x7 but it’s something like ET30 on my mk3 (not my choice of wheel, it’s what came on the car..) they sit about one inch into the arch on the front but have plenty of clearance on the rear. I’ve had 15x6 ET22 in the past (195/50/15) they were fine and 13x6 ET12 fine, Capri deep dish steels 13x5.5 ET19 both sets of 13’s on (185/70/13) they were all fine. The wheels I’m replacing my current set with are some 1970’s hurricanes for the rear at 14x7 they are around ET5 and with 195/75/14 tyres, I know for a fact they won’t go on a drastically lowered car like mine without arch rolling or narrower tyres. ET (offset) is measured in mm that would make those alloys you’ve seen sit further out by 12mm more than the old Cheviots I have, this might not seem like a great deal but my guess is even with 175 tyres unless you have enough clearance from the ride height and fit adjustable shocks to stiffen it up it’ll be an issue, especially if you have passengers.

Well done Ken, looks spot on!