the-urban-spaceman

thanks all. just realised, that oil picture i posted was used for something else. I did use Castrol Syntrax Universal – EP Part Synthetic Manual Transmission Fluid – API GL3/4/5 - SAE 75W/90. so all good. Also missed the note in manual saying assistant must hold clutch pedal up to stop (doh!!!), hence can't get clearance. Had a play with it yesterday and seems a lot better.

It is. Yes. Thank you.

This is gearbox number is it a type 9?

Think sussed it. Didn't realise was a stop on pedal. Need to wind in i think. This is oil I used.

Not sure. Bought it 25 years ago for 30 quid out the local rag. Same dimensions as 2.0 4 speed. Will double check pedals and get some photos. Thanks

I did put in synthetic. Found out hard way as put in standard and had whining noise on letting off accelerator. Might need a top up will check. Thats what I'm saying, it won't adjust. Thanks.

Baffled here. Got a mk3 Cortina with a 5 speed P100 gearbox fitted. So no adjustment pedal end. When I adjust cable to with the 3.5mm clearance as in Haynes manual it's closes up when pedal pressed and the pedal height goes up? Any ideas anyone? Getting sticky engaging first gear.

did it years ago. carb place padded it out with something, not sure where.

Hi all, Does anyone know how to cure this? When pulling up and dropping clutch revs stay at 1200 for a bit before dropping down to normal tickover. Remember 30 years ago a carburettor place told me they put a thin piece of metal somewhere to take up the slack, but not sure where or how to get to it. any ideas? 20250711_162214[2].mp4

Mine pre dates that unfortunately. It's a late MK3 1976 2.0gt that I converted from auto to manual choke. But will try two presses if the one doesn't cure it. Thanks.

Thanks, that worked this morning. Noticed it pumps extra fuel into the carb on pushing down. Seems to do the trick. Not sure where I got my starting procedure from, done it for years. Going to put a non return valve on the fuel line as it seems to seep back to the tank (or evaporate) when left for long periods. Thanks again. Darren

OK, I'll give that a go. Cheers.

Hi folks, Just wondering if anyone can point me in the right direction. 1976 2.0 Cortina GT with weber 32/36 DGAV carb and pazon electronic ignition. When starting from cold after standing for a while I activate the choke by just pressing the accelerator until you hear the click of the dampers closing (not fully depressing or pumping the throttle). It then takes ages to fire which I assume to be the petrol pumping through system?. When it does fire it attempts to rev up on the manual choke but seems to then flood/starve of petrol and cut out. Then next turn of the key starts perfectly (some times after a little persuasion). Any ideas as to what causes the initial cutting out would be appreciated. See video on youtube here This initially started quickly as I used it yesterday, but still cut out at first attempt. Cheers Darren

cheers guys. think i'll leave it and tow it back home should it happen and then do it then :thumbup:

Just pondering wether to change mine. Think its been in my car since a rebuild in 1987, but its only covered 17500 miles. Its a 1993cc pinto from a late 1976 mk3 (SK prefix). Is this the 2.0litre you refer to that wont bend the valves on failure? if it is that easy might do in spring anyway. how long does it take from your experience. cheers Darren.