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cortina-city

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Everything posted by cortina-city

  1. im hearin ya control, starcraft thread hijack tony may activate the starcraft self destruct sequence. THE SHIP WILL DETONATE IN T MINUS 15 SECONDS
  2. Ahaaaa so this is where its all happenin lads!!!!! and whats this??? Health and safety......yes its the HSE executive here. Clipboard n hi vis at the ready boom i just got hit, incoming, it came thru the screen LOL well ok, tony dont wanna us moanin anymore, so, im throwin in the fireproof blanket and trading my root beer for the real thing, i begin drunken welding immediately, all bets are off, drunk i am, drunk as a lord, and ready to weld........LOL I just uncovered this thread as I aint been on BSC for a bit its like lifting a cardboard box in the boot of a cortina and finding a mice nest look at em all scatter!!!! there goes disco, there goes RT!!!! there goes tony and tibbsy!!!! look at em run...... theres another 3 of em !!! , blind blind as bats, 3 of em.....should have wore goggles its discos fault, he has encoraged drunken shen anigans!!!!! angels one five, stella, over p popsy Ken are you recieving, can you hear me dave scotland calling.............crackle.... Serious, WOW Mr T i watch you on you tube, no more advisories from me, i shall refrain from HSE advice !!! ...........but glad to see goggles were on when inside for that least session !! (so you tell us, as i see no on screen proof) GREAT RESTO more screen time with disco please. Pete
  3. WOW this has come along very nicely Brian!!!! incredible work, what a lovely shell
  4. im still posting vids on youtube, may do a build thread on here on bramble, but im spending most my time on my own forums now. i have set up a patreon site which helps. ill pop in every now and again on here. pete
  5. failure on these is quite rare. good results can be achieved by carefully blasting, filling and priming sanding then paint never known one fail but have known them go weak i had mine on Ruby stripped and rebuilt i didnt want to attempt seperating it. that spring inside is tricky it aint worth it without special tools if you want a really good servo have it professionally rebuilt. for brakes i left the servo and master cylinder to a specialist brakes company , http://www.jlspares.com/ these guys are the masters (excuse the pun) then you know it will be right. brakes are too important. for all the time and effort and money you done on that incredible rebuild i would send it to them. (if you feel its faulty) i suppose you could do a leak test on it, if it dont leak its prob ok. why not telephone them and ask for info. they told me it was best to rebuild as the rubber / spring and other parts work better if replaced (i guess they biased though!) I MUST SAY RUBYS BRAKES ARE VERY SHARP FOR JUST STANDARD BRAKES so for me it was worth it. i can tell the difference on the pedal compared to older servos i have heres what they did: stripped and replaced all internal servo components shot blasted and primed the casing resleeved the master cylinder with stainless and fitted new seals. for my calipers i chose 'big red' i then used mintex pads with copperslip on the squal shims stainless pad rods and fitting kit perfect for rears just standard setup with new rear cylinders and mintex shoes i think the brake rebuild is covered in my online videos good luck brian and superb looking resto, love the primer on the panels
  6. as craig says Brina, you press this in to see if there is any adjustment needed on shoes, normally the self adjusting ratched cog and sprag will take up adjustment but as safe guard you can press the plastic plunger in to see how far the travel is, they can be bought on ebay from time to time
  7. all available new Ken from BRESCO.com
  8. ooooh those flush welded in panel repairs with the derriere clamps really just pop it for me, just love it when you flush fit a patch then gently flap wheel back leaving invisible repair, its like taking back control of time.
  9. Richard dont know if tis will help but burtons do do a stat housing. also check condition of stat rubber seal, ive seen a few deform whilst in use and allow water to go straight thru/under the rubber, comprimising the closing action of the stat resulting in engine running cool
  10. The common route on early cars was fule line plastic pipe goes along the offside chassis rail using combination of clips, 8mm pipe clips, a metal tank (nearer fuel tank) and black plastic slide on clips, again near tank attached to chassis fork, then runs up to front on 8mm clips until it reaches bottom of front lower inner wing chassis rail, from here a rubber fiuel pipe section (usually cloth braided rubber) is used to flexi connect it to a stell 8mm pipe which bends in order for it to weave under the front inner wing exiting (as you say) just near top of subframe mount. from here a short piece of flexi tube is used again, this time to connect to a further shaped piece of 8mm steel tube which attaches to front lower inner crossmember panel using again 8mm pipe clips, it then finishes just below area where the fuel pump is on the 2.0 engine, it then connects to a inline fule filter using flexi hose until finally it connect to carbs. Its wise to secure the inlet brass insert to the carb (if yours is push in type) as they can fall out throwing fuel all over the engine bay. This has been the cause of fires in the past. Whilst flash point of petrol is not low enough on a hot exhaust there still hi chance of fire if a spark occurs. It seems later cars routed the pipe along an extra metal tang asjacent the brake line, running across the front suspension subframe. on later cars a second return fuel line was added, the reason for this im dont know. In a frontal collison i would have thought fuel line safer on the clip than on front valence inner. All my cars have the fuel line up front. detailed pics on my videos and build pics of PROJECT RUBY Pete
  11. the last 3 vids are all strip down vids, in part 3 its a coin hunt with magic mushrooms, mushrooms growing in the car, dried out and when you vac, you errr trip more than a fuse
  12. ah sort of found a way to do it ok so most of you know the car, but just started stripping it its been off road since 1983
  13. really hard now on this forum to post links
  14. cheers everyone new inspection film, look at the condition
  15. Gary what we have here is a very solid bulkhead, perhaps one of the cleanest ive seen, i would even say its better than some cars ive seen that are actually on the road.
  16. thanks guys bulkhead mint. thats just saved me 3 months of work. i cannot understand how this car has survived so well in the engine bay
  17. Im in same situation trying to smooth the ride out on ruby, jim kindly brought me some ford mounts up and i fitted, the vibration calmed down and same as you i had vibration areound 2,400 to 3,100 rpm, also had this prob on swampy, solved with softer worn in mounts. however i also still have some vibration again around 2,400 to 3,100 but thru the drivetrain, thru the prop and into the axle i have single piece prop becuase im running an A4 auto box, so if you think about it, gearbox needs good mount rubber too, mine was slightly compressed on gearbox rubber as my crossmember was slightly tight fit on the 4 mount bolts, so i elongated the holes a little so that the gearbox mount was sitting less under stress and more in line (a4box is slightly longer so needs different mount setup which i did) however the vibration (i think) now feeds thru prop shaft and into the axle, at this point yu then rely on axle to isolate the last of the vibration and I |T HINK?????? the polybushes on the axle are so firm that it is these that are sending the last of the vibration into the car, has anyone else noticed that with floflex/poly vushes on axle that it can send prop vibration all the way from engine into the axle? it seems to make sense that if your engine outns can vibrate on the HD mounts/hard mounts, that you need to change the whole way the engine is connected to car, so gearbox effectively is the engine too, and that needs to be sat right in its mount, and then prop is also connect to engine via gearbox, which then bolts to axle, so axle will feel engien vibration if axle has hard mounts? i may have to swap the upper and lower swing arm bushes for softer ones? seems to make sense, has anyone felt this with poly on rear axle? i dont mean road noise as such i mean engine vibration goin right thru into axle. i swapped crank pulley for a different one just in case and disconnected fan belt just in case, still sends harmonic resoanance thru to axle. i may take prop off just to prove the point and see its quite smooth car but just trying to get it better pete
  18. thats interesting Jayne, I have DVLA asking mefor engine change docs, luckily I have all the paperwork from JEM racing, however DVLA wanted the proof of purchase,new engine number and a document from a garage that shows the exact cylinder capicity.
  19. as far as im aware the engines are same Steve, i think only rs2000 had different some, this is one for the lads, craig will know
  20. its the paint code Mark, Saphire blue paint code 1 aint it? think you mixed up with daytona, thats the mellow yellow, different ball game
  21. run my a4 for 1900 miles now. revs are 3100 rpm at 70 in overdrive with i think a 3.75 axle. had issues getting up and downshifts to run smooth, it turns out engine needs to be in good tune for the vac to feed in corect HG ran vac from t adapter on inlet great box with a nice 3rd for hills, 3rd will kick down to 2nd on boot, great for the lakes. made quite a few videos of it all the pinto flywheel will rev up quick, golt one on swampy, really like it, trade off with loosing the mass but i think they work well
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