Mk2 Crayford

Trying this, not sure how old the ad is. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/810772106792109/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post There's a few on there including one that looks suspiciously like where the truck, is from! https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/114481921897649/search?query=Ford p10

You can get them in the states but don't kno anywhere this side of the pond. https://www.opgi.com/fittings-hoses/hose-line-clamps-brackets/hose-clamps/hose-clamp-original-style-34-34c2250.html https://www.classicindustries.com/product/0857.html https://www.topflightautomotive.com/products/ford/parts/cooling/radiator-hose-clamp/ https://www.fabulousfords.com/dept/Cooling+%26+Radiator/cat/Hose+Clamps.html https://www.ebay.com/itm/160413578311?_ul=IN

Fill out the vin decoder at the top of this site. That should give the build date I think.

My wipers have been getting slower and slower, park not working etc so I've pulled the motor, mechanism and switch out for an overhaul. Simple question and hopefully a simple answer - how can I wire this on the bench to check it'6s all ok before I put it back in the car. I've looked at wiring diagrams but they don't seem to correctly reflect my car (1969 600gt). Below are the wire colours and in brackets what I assume they do. I don't want to do some damage by sticking power in yhe wrong place. 2 Green joined - from loom to motor (power?) Black/green - between motor and switch. (power from motor to switch?) Brown/ green - between motor and switch. (power to motor from switch?) Black - from switch to loom. (earth?) Black - from motor to loom.(earth?)

Do you mean this? https://www.burtonpower.com/door-shut-edge-trim-ford-cortina-mk1-mk2-rubb55.html

Any pics or details of the car?

Link on here to gov info

What's everyone's thoughts on the change to petrol grades that completes in September. Will using any grade make a difference for low mileage use? https://www.gov.uk/guidance/e10-petrol-explained

Well it was either the starter or the battery. Changed them both and no issues since.

From the info I have the brown wire goes to the ammeter. That all seems fine. The heat just seems to be in the battery and starter circuit. I've got a replacement battery being delivered tomorrow under warranty so that will confirm if that's the issue. I'll also pick up a starter to remove the risk of that being the issue. If that doesn't work I'll give up and put if back in the garage

Over the winter I replaced my strut tops and used the opportunity to overhaul the engine bay including new brake lines, re-wrapped wiring loom, respray and an engine rebuild. Last weekend I finally put the engine in and tried to start it. It wouldn't start but some of the wiring started to get hot and smoke. I put this down to bad earth due to the respray so cleand the battery cable earth on thee body and the same for the engine earth. That did the trick and the engine started and ran no problem with no hot wires. All was well until last night when I was giving the car a tune up. It started and ran OK but stalled when I went to turn the tick over down. When I went to restart it the starter just clicked. I tried it a couple of times then noticed the battery earth and starter cable wer both smoking. The earth terminal and that end of the battery were extremely hot. I assume there was a short to earth that was causing the problem so had a check for one. This is what I discovered. The large brown wire on the starter solenoid has continuity to earth. The power terminal on the starter has continuity to earth. The battery had lost all its volts. What I don't know is would the brown wire and starter terminal both naturally return to earth. Or could the problem be caused by a dodgy battery, starter or solenoid. All the other wiring in the engine bay is fine. Any ideas.

I'm after advice regarding main and big end bearings. My bearings are marked 731M 6211F1A for the big end (for 040 undersized crank). I've found some online marked 731M 6211FA for crossflow engines (for 040 undersized crank) and want to know if the slight difference in number makes a difference. My main bearings are marked 731 M6333 BDA (020) and the ones I've found online are marked 731 M6333 CDA (020). Again not sure what the relevance of BDA vs BDA is, but both ads are listed as for crossflow and also fit Lotus twin cam / bda engines. I've asked the seller the question but so far no reply.

Morning All, I'm rebuilding my engine and trying to confirm the piston size. I was expecting to see either an oversize marking stamped into them or Std for the standard size, but the only marking is shown on the pic. I'm assuming these are standard - any thoughts.

Whilst I've got my engine out to do the strut tops and paint the engine bay I've decided to take the opportunity to get it rebuilt. It had various oil leaks last year so looks like all the seals have given up. It was also down on compression - all even-ish but lower than they should be. Can anyone recommend a good engine builder in Essex who is open at the moment?

Whilst I've got my engine out to do the strut tops and paint the engine bay I've decided to take the opportunity to get it rebuilt. It had various oil leaks last year so looks like all the seals have given up. It was also down on compression - all even-ish but lower than they should be. Can anyone recommend a good engine builder in Essex who is open at the moment?