John Mack

That's good you got it working, gives you time to find a relay at an autojumble !

Pins 85 and 86 are what switches the relay. Pin 30 should be battery positive, and 87 the supply to spot lights. Can you use your test light or multi-meter to trace where the supply stops ? .......or take the terminal off pin 87 and give it a live feed from the battery (or use the supply from pin 30), if the spotlights then work you know the wiring from relay to lights is good and the fault lies with the switching side of things. If it doesn't work then as above you'll need to trace where you have power and where you lose it.

Liking your work

Not sure what to make of that ? I'd be for trying to get it further off the ground though! Agree with the above ref the garden hose type stuff with the nylon weave through it.

The Sierra had either 2 pipes from the MC going to the rear or a single line and a T-piece before the wheel cylinders. On the Cortina the brake line goes to one cylinder and then over to the other side where that cylinder has a bleed nipple, as the pressure remains the same at any point it makes no difference whatsoever.

They're plastic/nylon but not transparent, can you take a picture of what's on the car?

As far as I know, none of them have transparent lines?

I frequently look at what Classic Parts Shack have for sale, I've bought stuff from them on a few occasions as their stuff is reasonably priced I think. They have Motorcraft shoes for sale, can't say if they're exactly what you need? Ford Cortina Mk3 Mk4 Taunus TC 1.3 1.6 Rear Motorcraft Brake Shoe Genuine Ford New Old Stock EBL3148 5021302 Original Ford Brakes shoes alway in stock Made By Motorcraft

Are flasher relays not 3-pin ? Regards location, maybe above the pedals or behind dash-clocks.....never had cause to change the relay so don't know is the honest answer !

Sounds like you're in a better place regards your job Good effort on the switches, that's commitment !!

Maybe. Hopefully.

I'm just flicking my way through this, is that a VV carb on a x-flow , never new that was a thing ! Can't believe he was checking for a spark while holding the plug to the carb while the fuel line was off !! .....and he cut off the original battery terminals

Slight Drag is good in my book. Obviously you're checking the clearance on the heal of the cam opposite the lobe, if you turn the cam a bit each way you might find a bit where the clearance increases .....set at this point. Also definitely recheck after you've nipped up the lock nut . Regards the before/after videos....Maybe now your engine sounds like it should?! Hope the Accuspark performs ok.

IF you're happy with your work and that you've set the clearances to the correct specification, using the correct method, then assume the sound is good . Are you familiar with checking/adjusting valve clearances? I hear your recording but my experience of engine noises recorded is that they sound noisier when played back than what they do normally ! That's good you've got it running, what was the "leccy" kit you got?