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Everything posted by bortaf

  1. my old GT had extended brakets so that blank fitted over the stereo to hide it the brackets stood out a bit i must admit :(
  2. every part to do with the speedo is sold out appart from 1 worm gear but there are 3 to choose from, you dont want to buy the wronge one and not have it fit your drive gear, better off getting a matched pair off an old box if you can find one. I think it's usually the 4 start worm gears that dont fit most of the drives, they are usually in commercial boxes, there's a 4/5 and 6 start worm gears then 5 or 6 drive gears to choose from :wacko:
  3. you "may" need to match the speedo drive and worm gear, depending on what is in the box, to use the drive gear from the 4 speed box you may also need to use the worm gear as well (worm gear is in the box, drive gear is the one that comes out and the cable sits in) as i say it depends, some combinations fit together some dont so it's usually best to fit as a pair.
  4. is it a true baby atlas or just a narrow atas? a lot of narrow atlass get called babys when they are not , how wide is the axle ? (flange face to flange face), baby atlases came on european built escorts only AFAIK hense rare. Baby ... 48.5" wide Narrow (Mk1 3 litre Capri) 50" wide Standard (Mk2 & 3 Capri) 52" long wide you have to have the half shaft that goes to your axle or they are too long, you cant use a 52 capri shaft in a baby without altering it. fostek are the ones to talk to they can shorten longer (wider) shafts to fit the shorter (narrower) tubes if you cant find the correct half shaft for your axle http://s199563986.websitehome.co.uk/cat/atlashsindex.html
  5. Does anyone know the car ? I know nothing of the incident appart from where it happened, i just got the pic in a txt
  6. https://www.africanmusclecars.com/forum/index.php?sid=e69e34773aede6af1388b53fc18750ec :thumbup:
  7. You'd usually have trouble walking in a pillbox never mind driving a car in one lol but i've seen stranger items dumped in them :shocking: pilboxes would have a reinforced conrete cap usually made by pouring into a wooden former but they did use corrugated iron as ply would have been in short supply, the build methods change from area to area and there are a few differant types, funny enough i detected around one in cuffly a few days ago (part of the northern stop line), a few 303 shell casings and a what i think is a musket ball but i havn't confirmed it yet but no cars, i must change areas :D it looks just like the deralict multistorey car parks i grew up playing it in N London in the 70's :afro:
  8. Been about for years, no idea about that seller but i suspect he's something to do with this place below http://www.heatedwindscreen.com/acatalog/ford-heated-windscreens.html a faif few escort owners have fitted them, i'd have a look on a rally forum see what the feedback is like :thumbup:
  9. Usually mounted on the bottom of the spare wheel well (lower than the tank) though TBH when ever that's done it's normaly to use a standard ford pump and cradle, the cradle protects the pump from damage and that's where ford put them on the sierra and it wasn't an issue, as said it depends if the pump your using need a gravity feed or if it can self prime :headscratch:
  10. Any prop fits there's only 1 type of diff flange on the later cortinas, that is a koln axle :thumbup:
  11. bortaf

    Braking down

    I assume you have sierra or aftermarket leccy ign as the Mk5 never came with it (appart from the 2.3) so not sure where the usuall place on the inner wing is ?, if it's water splashing onto/into it move it if there's enough slack in the wiring? or if you can't move it and it is (as i suspect) moisture from the heat in the engine bay remove the boot and add some dielectric grease (or vasoline) to the boot lip to seal it then ziptie the end of the boot where the wires go in after sealing that end with grease :)
  12. Pop into Britannia Motor Engineering in britannia road (waltham X) and have a word with Mark the owner, he'll recomend who he uses for his classic restos :thumbup: i believe he uses somone in hoddesdon but i havn't spoken to him for a while, i know he used to use a local firm :)
  13. early 1.6 Mk5s had the inertia starter
  14. i allways charge and discharge at 1 amp, makes the maths easyer LOL i have found that most of my 1000 mAh batterys also have a parasitic drain that will lower thier voltage over a week when fully charged, i charge to 4.2 ( i fully charge to 4.15v) then leave for a week and recheck the voltage, if they have dropped lower than 4V i chuck them (only metaphoricly), if they pass i discharge them again and write down thier true mAh from the discharge then re charge to storage voltage (3.6v), it does all take a while i know but it weeds out the week useless cells, i think the internal short that drains them seems to also limit them to around 1000 mAh, not sure if this is true but i seem to find that corrilation beteween 1000 ish mAh and a small self discharge, most cars (well at least tesla) only allow 80% charge most of the time, they only allow 100% if you are going to use the vehical straight way, IE use the cells "hot" as in straight off the charger, this is too protect the cells from high V damage which is not as bad as low voltage but obv still lowers life expectancy. Also i never store at 4.2 only the 3.6 storage voltage the imax uses. If you only use 2500mAh and above cells you've already cut your expected battery size by a 1/3rd, my power wall is at 200 cells all tested over 2000 mAh and has taken me 2 years BUT it's all free, remeber the gloden triangle (nowt to do with a rolled up £20 note!) you can have cheap, fast or good but not all 3 at the same time, you want good and cheap then it will be a slow job, you want good and fast, it will cost you, any job/project will cost you either money, time or quality but as meatloaf said .............. As an aide i use the cells that have a drain/low mAh in LED torches and the like where i carry a few spare cells to make up for the short mAh capacity of them, as soon as they drop below 3V they go in the bin and get sold as scrap. Again not trying to teach you to suck eggs just having a waffle session at your cost When you experiment with other smaller projects post them up, there will be somone interested in them power packs make for great gifts and you can get kits you just add cells to for about £5 a pop, add a few personalised stickers and give somone a really usefull gift with TRUE mAh figures! some of the quoted mAh figures for fully built packs is allmost laughable and swapping your old torches to LED and lithium is fun, at least i think it is
  15. Back in my teen years i used to work for express dairys, we had a 2 speeder float that would fly when empty! i beat evyone off the lights on the way back to the dairy best was a marina TC i beat up Barnett hill past the train station shame the usuall roundsman left the handbrake off one day and it ended up in a pond at the bottom of mount pleasant (after hitting 12 parked cars and plowing through a garden hedge) i wonder where all the milf float motors went i know a lot ended up in garden centers around my area.
  16. Sorry if i waffled on i rarely find anyone to chat to about EVs, i do use some EV forums but most of the chat is beyond me my only real experiance is driving a nissan leaf i service, i hated it, the car that is not the tech
  17. Parallel or Series is going to be both depending on the working voltage of the motor, TBH it's the area that gets me most confused, i draw out a scematic then get confused at that it's a whole new world we're getting into isn't it cell balancing is the worst bit i find that's why i started off with small upgrades to power tools and the like then onto a power pack and power wall (i have to "creep up" on new tech) i get easly confused I find some cells that have sat low for a while need a few charge/discharge cycles before they get back to full capacity but with such a large amount as you need that is a real drain on time especialy if you concider it can take a day to run a couple of cycles on a single cell, there are some great lithium UPSs coming on the market 2nd hand now and they could be a great time saver as you can think of and use each battery as a single cell so it makes the sums easyer pluss you usually start off with a charged battery bank not a flat one, the thing with laptop batterys is i allways find them flat so have to disasemble to find the dead cell, UPSs rarely go flat as they are allways on trickle charge and get swapped out by date rather than lack of performance 99% of the time, if i come accross any (i rarely do nowdays TBH) i'll let you know i used to get them from the lcoal councill offices now they lock them away in a locked skip i cant have them due to health and safety issues with the chemicals used (what rubbish they used to let me have lead batterys full of acid but i cant have sealed ones that are way safer to handle ) might be worth an email to yours ? they may be more amicable (or less full of BS or than mine ) or local firms or find your local Ewaister although not many are about in the UK, we are as usuall way behind other countrys when it comes to recycling
  18. Have you checked out Jehu ? He recently had and is looking into getting more cheap power cells, check through his vids for details If you are going the reclaimed route i would suggest you get a few more Imax chargers! i charge 8 18650s at a time at the full 5A then discharge individualy (and storage charge after, dont leave them flat) and mark all my cells, then group then into piles of similar MAHs, you can do 16 but i limit the amount i charge by the time i have to be about and keep an eye on the charger/individual cell temps, nowt technical , if i feel a hot cell i remove it and 8 take about the time i spend at the yard scrapping and building stuff in the eve, if you have the time to be there charge 16 at a time ( i get a fair few laptops and TBH appart from the rather large differance in capacity there is rarely more than 1 dead cell per laptop, one word of warning cheap replacememnt batterys will usually have sub 2000MAH cells whereas the OE batterys are ni on allways 2400mah pluss cells. IME LG (light green) and panasonic (dark green with black top) are the best in the 2nd hand market, avoid anything with a brand that ends in fire, trustfire surefire ect, i find they are ni on allways rewrapped cells that have failed the capacity test at the factory and allway give really low cap results in bech tests, also remember 3.7V is thier nominal value, 4.2 is max so you may find you need less cells, jehu i beleive started off with 1500 18650s in his samba project When choosing batterys remember protected cells are longer than unprotected, makes building a large pack annoying and slow if you keep getting an odd battery tahts longer than the rest, wether you need protected cells is debatable if you build the protection into the car/charger rather than each individual cell The big pluss with lithium cells is the ability to make smaller cells and place them about the car, IE you could fil the sills with cells if you wanted whereas usung lead acid your stuck with a block you can't alter the shape of, good choice IMHO TBH i guess you already know most of that i just like to waffle I'll be following this with interest chap
  19. That's normal, i can sort out the data but the usuall way to set it is to measure the wheelbase and adjust the tie rods till it's spot on wheel base 101.5 inches or wheel base 2579mm (measure from wheel center to center) If you want it done propperly the castor is 1deg 45'
  20. Driving lamps as in spotlights ? they dont have a seperate switch they come on with the main beam and use a small sub loom with a relay that plugs in near the pas headlight
  21. The rubber insulator can rip in a short time if the gearbox is leaking from the rear seal, the gear oil softens the rubber insulator.
  22. Is a steering quickener not an option ? http://www.colemanracing.com/Steering-Quickeners-P4753.aspx or run a P/S rack unasisted ? just loop the feed and return lines to keep some fluid in the rack and use like that ? there was an aftermarket kit to make a cortina quick rack a few years ago, i beleive it was for a sumo kit car (cobra rep) IIRC rally design carried it but i guess it never really took off sales wise cos it dissapeared off the site a few years ago i'm sure midland performance centre used to make them as well
  23. TBH every cortina i've fully poly bushed has been a dissapointment to the owner, especially if you poly the cradle, so much NVH is transmitted it can grate after a few hundred miles any bush that need to flex like the upper and lower voids i try to keep soft or rubber, especialy the uppers as they need to flex owing to the top arms differing angle of movement as the axle rises and falls relative to the bottom arms but it's a personal thing many peeps have done it and loved it, i prefer ride over handling though hense my bias to soft and quiet
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