KKCortina

Yes...saw them ...and realised just as you did Richard!!

Hi.... looking urgently for a standard new/used pre-crossflow Exhaust Manifold for a standard Mk1 or Mk2 Cortina 1500 Super ..... probably hard to get so may have to consider going GT manifold + stainless/mild steel manifold to tailpipe option!

Thanks guys...will try and report back in the near future!

Went to check/adjust ignition timing in my Mk5 1600 OHC fitted with a black cap Ford Distributor.... removed small bolt/clamp to discover that the distributor was seized solid ! Afraid to use excessive force as there is a danger that it could could the alloy body could break or crack.... leaving a stuck-fast piece in the location opening/hole above the oil pump ..... which would prob mean sump off job to fix from below.... Any ideas on a possible remedy from any BSC member who has encountered this issue before? Copious applications on a regular basis of WD40 ??

Hi..... small issues re new new Clutch Disc that I am fitting to my Ser.1 1600E...... (1)I have the correct straight-fingered Pressure Plate and the correct hinge-type Release Bearing that fits to the clutch fork/arm..... however, the Clutch Discs I have (all 20 spline for Mk 2's) are different brands (QH, AP, Valeo etc) and have slightly different centre lenghts/protrusions either side of the splined centre section..... only a few mm's longer or shorter but still different.... Does this really matter once the 20-spline clutch disc fits the correct way round (flywheel side to front) on the 20-splined gearbox mainshaft ? (Correct 190mm/7.5" disc width) (2) One other query.....the special Mk2 Cortina Release Bearing is a hinge fit to the clutch arm/fork....... am I correct in saying that the these hinges on the release bearing should NOT be pinched to ensure that the arm does not fall off on assembly....... I have a vague recollection years ago of trying to tighten/squeeze them to ensure arm was secure....only for the hinge to snap off as it was a cast rather than soft metal, thereby damaging and ruining a new release bearing beyond repair!

Always wondered how do you replace and get a new olive on to the black hard-plastic fuel pipe? The off-pipe olive has to fit on to a non-pliable/on-flexy black plastic pipe that at first glance is not a good fit! Heat it first in boiling water and then fit quickly so that it cools around the plastic fuel pipe?

Thanks Steve.... much appreciated .. hope all well with you! SW

Guys..... can somebody decipher the following part no. on a Ford Clutch fork that I have in my spares.... 3038E-7541.B....... guess is its either a Cortina/Capri/Granada Pinto OHC..... but could also be an early 1969 Capri 1600 OHV model Generally...... what Ford car does part no. prefix 3038E indicate ...... Any help appreciated..........

Thanks John.... I got one last week although the Gumtree one looks good too!

Hi.... anybody got a perfect/near perfect aluminium Timing Cover for a 1600cc Crossflow engine with NO OIL DIPSTICK aperture (hole blanked off) .... with good threads where it attaches to sump etc. and will polish up well.............will have FOMOCO logo on front.... if so please post or PM pic and price.... One I have is damaged due to over-zealous cleaning with pencil wire brushes etc.....

Hi again... query re Fuel Pump for above OHC..... for some reason the one that I replaced a few years ago does not appear to be pumping fuel to Weber carb..... current one was fitted with a space block about 4mm or 5mm wide.....this block disintegrated a bit on one side due to over-tightening I'd say (torque should be 12-15 per manual) which may have caused pump pin and pump face to be off centre/mis-aligned ...... My questions are ... (1) Should there be a block only .......or block+gasket (gasket next to pump body).....or gasket/block/gasket......... (2) Replacement pumps tend to be Moprod or similiar non Ford...... are these sealed for life and non-servicable or maintainable re cleaning filter/blowing out dirt etc..? Thanks in advance..... (Electric not an option..... at the moment anyway!)

5/8" in old money.... got some recently online (Amazon)

Thanks Craig.... what would BSC do without your ever-present presence and advice - always a guaranteed response ....KK

Thanks Craig.... are you saying that the 2 unions on the Land Rover unit are Metric nad NOT Imperial?........so 2 x 11mm rather than the 11mm and the 13mm currently on the GXL Mk3 Cortina?...... thought all LR's were imperial ...

No problem hearing the best advice! Any idea where to get a genuine Mk3 Cortina (with Servo) one Craig? Most people talk about a specific Land Rover version .... any idea of model no. and whether you need to change the 2 union fittings (11mm and 13mm??) to imperial ?

Guys - still in trouble with getting a good brake pedal with this GXL.... getting impatient now! I have replaced front brake flexi's as above..... and still cant get a consistent good pedal..... I am now back to the Master Cylinder where I think the real problem is despite having replaced all the rubber seals as per above pic of master cylinder internals! I even got a Gunson Brake Bleeding Kit (the one that works using a spare tyre to pressurise the master cylinder) .... when I tested the kit under pressure with no fluid in the bottle some brake fluid appeared to leak from under where it joins the servo (2 x nuts) .... and also a leak from where the front of reservoir pushes down into master cylinder. I stopped this leak at front of brake reservoir by using a cable tie tightened to the last to keep the reservoir tight against the master cylinder body..... Despite being aware from other threads that it would be difficult to remove the reservoir body (front push-in section) it came out with only a few left/right twists. Using the Gunson kit did not solve my problems ....so it has to be the master cylinder seals or bore. The bore looks okay and the piston came out very easy without using air pressure. HOWEVER..... I noticed one possible area to investigate and query...when I pump the brake pedal (which goes to the floor) there are very large air bubbles surfacing in the front section of the section of of reservoir - in other words ...every push action of the brake pedal and master cylinder piston is pushing large air bubbles up through the front reservoir compartment ..... this can't be right and brings into question have I fitted a seal incorrectly .... A few queries... 1) What type of seal goes into this front push-in opening in the m/cyl..... I have fitted a new small circular seal and the front reservoir push-in plug/thingy just seems to sit on this seal ....or should it push up on the plastic plug-in part...... all that appears to keep this push-in piece sealed is to tighten the 2 x screws at the other end of the reservoir/master cyl. 2) Is there a seal between the m/cyl and the face of the brake servo (nothing on mine - only used blue gasket paste to seal) If I cannot make progress on above, I will have to send to Past Parts or similar to get professional help!! Forgive the long-winded commentary below but I am getting desperate

Agreed... what sequence did you use.... was it Left Front...then Right Front....and lastly the single Rear one (on right side??...or is it Left side???)......

UPDATE..... (1) Removed brake master cylinder and checked over.... pistons etc seemed to be moving up and down okay - refit and refill with fluid - still the same ! (2) Removed brake master cylinder again...this time dismantled internals (came out okay and no need for air line).... bore felt fine....lucky I had a spare Brake Master Cylinder overhaul kit......fitted..... tried to bleed again....again nothing! (3) Checked each brake pipe/flexi pipe union - and there are many on a Mk3 Cortina!...... fluid flow traced down to 2-way front brass splitter...... then removed flexi pipe on LH side and cleaned it up and checked whether air/fluid could pass through..... BLOCKED! Yes...at last a breakthrough...... replaced both front flexi pipes and bled front brakes this morning - brakes work but pedal not great as - I think - the rear ones (on a separate line) need to be bled when I get access to same when front wheels are replaced and car can move forward in garage. How did it happen that both flexi pipes were blocked ? Not sure but I cleaned up the rusty/stained flexi's x 2 on a rotary wire wheel....... the heat generated must have closed access to each union.When I cut open the old blocked flexi I discovered that the actual fluid passageway is tiny - never knew this! It would take very very little to block them! As they say "Every day's a school day"! Again ...thanks to Craig and John Mack for replies and suggestions - good one Craig regarding the bolt and two nuts trick..... eventhough the hex was a 0.5 inch imperial fitting in a Girling master cylinder, I purchased a 12mm hex key from a local motor factor and wound some masking tape around it to bring it up to a 0.5" equivalent metric fit of 12.7mm - it worked! But neat fix/trick all the same! I ordered a full set of hex keys - both imperial and metric - from Amazon on Monday - delivered lunchtime today - won't be caught out again!

John/Craig..... that sounds like what happened as the pedal-pushing person said that she heard or felt a click sound at the end of first pedal push .....!!! Since I posted above, I have found a Service Kit for the Mk3 Brake Master Cylinder so that is my next course of action...... Any tips on how to open the master cylinder as the little valve thingy (coloured yellow in Pic2 above) appears to be held in place by a hex screw-in piece - any hex pieces in my socket sets are too small ...... Hate doing this job as brake fluid always spills/leaks/drains over paintwork no matter how careful you are in removing the Master Cylinder and unding the brake pipe unions as the second chamber always contains too much fluid - anyone any crafty solutions? Will update when finished...

Guys.... have a brake bleeding issue with my '72 pre-facelift Mk3 Cortina 2000GXL.... Stripped front suspension/clip etc so disconnected all brake lines.... left brake master cylinder/servo alone with just the 2 outlet pipes unattached ......so all brake fluid in reservoir and pipes etc were drained out to empty. Connected all up again and filled reservoir with fluid in both front and rear compartment of reservoir only to discover that the fluid will not pump through brake lines when I release either one of front caliper bleed valves. I disconnected the FRONT main brake pipe feed union at bracket in front of passenger footwell (attached to chassis leg) ... i.e. the pipe that connects to short flexi that connects to brass front brake splitter. Pumped the pedal and NOTHING!..... so fluid is not making it down from the master cylinder. This has me stumped as have not touched the master cylinder internals - I just disconnected from from of servo to have a look to see if there was anything obvious..... checked that piston moved in/out freely (and it does) but couldn't see anything so fitted it back and retried........ but, alas. no luck. The master cylinder is a Girling original with part no 0168 64679155 on side .....with a small size and large size outlet so can't mix them up.....reservoir compartment nearest the servo feeds the front wheels I wish to retain this master cylinder as its the original ... so no plans to fit a Land Rover version etc.... Any ideas guys ?

Excellent - and Original Instructions as well - thanks Btboy!

That would be great!

Hi BTBoy.... Not an option I'm afraid.... in Ireland ! I have original bushings and also have the halved ones that locate into each other but would rather fit the originals uncut if possible.... If you can post a pic or two of the original Ford (or similar) tool it might be useful ! Will try the vice + washing up liquid trick after I heat the bushings up in a kettle! Thanks for offer and advice - great to see that somebody has an original tool for this awkward job!

Guys - any tips re fitting of the rubber bushings that fit on each end of the ARB + Tie Bars ? I know that some guys just cut them in half but is there an easy way to fit intact such as heating/boiling them to make them more pliable/softer and using a blunt screwdriver/vice to force them through the ARB/Tie bar eyes........OR if you cut them are they effective /do the job just as well...?