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Danish

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Everything posted by Danish

  1. It's a rubber paint, I thought it might help keep sound resonance down, and also be a bit softer if I catch my knee on it. Thanks for the other kind comments.
  2. I have most of them. But many of the in-progress photos were posted at the time then discarded. Work on PAL rarely stops... here is the last 12 months or so: Engine rebuild after losing the water pump belt (and having a truck behind me so couldn't stop): Complete gearbox rebuild with tasty rally ratios: Replaced the Tex mirrors with genuine Mk4 door mirrors: I abandoned the Wellers as I struggled to get them balanced well enough, especially when towing. I went back my Superlite replicas, powder coated white: Having cooked on hot days a couple of times, the polycarb rally windows were replaced with original door drop glass: Fitted a genuine South African bonnet as the fibreglass Aussie one warped: After the "Minder" Capri caught fire, MarkyMark came to help and we finally finished the engine bay fire extinguisher system: The millboard door cards got kind of saggy, so I made these custom door cards from checker-plate alloy:
  3. That's good to know, thanks!
  4. Next Friday my old web hosting contract lapses, and it's too expensive to renew. Sorry in advance, all the photos in this thread are going to disappear. :(
  5. Very nice work Brian. As the roof paint is so nice, I would wait a while before deciding whether to go BVR. A Mk3 with BVR and side trim is a very different looking car to a base or L model with clean lines. One day I shall make a trip to Malta and see the car in the flesh!
  6. I've recently fitted ARP studs. I've bought too many sets fo stretch bolts over the years. Non-stretch ware £75 for a set so the £120 for studs aren't so bad. I found it much easier to locate the head with studs, but then I use an overhead hoist - so I can just lower down and make sure the studs engage.
  7. There's oodles of space behind the pulley. In fact I may take another 5mm off the back to push it further back. But yes, hex bolts would be better, will look at that.
  8. If I could change one thing about my car it would be to have a couple of classic car mates within a couple of miles so we could hang out at each other's garages. My resto thread kind of fills that gap, but only when there's feedback to keep my mojo going. The days of putting up a post and getting 6 or 8 replies are long gone, and at times I'm posting and the last two or three posts are mine. Rich - good idea, I could do that, don't want to cut off people who'll otherwise not see any updates. Especially as I think Dave.com said you can paste links from Facebook-hosted images... and yes, you can! Mike's DOHC pulley drilled and tapped and the trigger wheel Pete-H made for me fitted: and trial-fitted on the Pinto:
  9. Oh no, you don't get rid of me that easily! 🙂
  10. It's been 7 years, there's 271 pages with 5,732 photos! I think it's the second longest ever topic, behind Swampy. Quite staggering really. But for a number of reasons it's time to draw this thread to a close. I've set up a Facebook page for the continuation of the project PAL - the endurance rally Mk3 Cortina where I'll be doing some more in-depth posts and videos.
  11. 1.4mb is huge. The wet string that passes for internet here in Wales would struggle with that size of images. The ones I upload of PAL tend to be around 0.1mb. Solution - resize your photos - make them smaller width & height, and increase compression level - both will reduce file size.
  12. Nice work from the admin team. Now I can upload photos direct from my phone! On Tuesday I delivered the boot lid and bonnet for dipping.
  13. Yes, Craig is the man when it comes to Cortina locks and keys. For PAL I found a NOS ignition barrel and key on ebay. Craig re-keyed the rest of the car to match the new key.
  14. I bought a new boss for a Mk3 maybe 4 years ago, so I expect they are still selling them. They're usually at the NEC show. I wandered into their stand and left with a lovely steering wheel but a few pounds lighter in the pocket.
  15. Indeed. Once it's been dipped I'll have the holes for the spare wheel welded up, and put a few welds inside to strengthen things up. After that for now I'll probably paint it with Bondaprimer and a light top coat of something or other to keep it from rusting until we're ready to do the next colour scheme, probably in 2021/22.
  16. How a little job becomes a big job. I wanted to charge the Cortina's battery, but didn't want to risk the boot lid dropping on my head, so we thought to remove the spare wheel. Then found the paint was so damaged underneath we may as well strip and remove it and send it with the bonnet for dipping. The paint is right through to primer where the spare wheel cover touched it. There's not much to do except strip it back, and the soft paint would be a nightmare to sand off, so dipping seems the way forward: Fog lamp, ham aerial and spare wheel carrier stripped off: This original boot lid didn't have much in the way of bracing for the spare wheel. The paint was cracked across that side of the boot lid showing the metal has been flexing: Boot lid removed. This should make it easier to fit the rear window blind: I imagine the dipping process would take off the vinyl decals without even noticing, but I removed them just in case. Stacked with the bonnet ready to go:
  17. Yup. The red paint I used is good - that's Halford's acrylic aerosols. But the yellow (internet cellulose aerosol) didn't ever fully harden and it's shrunk back from the decals in places. So fitting the new bonnet and boot is a chance to replace a fair amount of panels in yellow aerosol.
  18. Our afternoon session started with filler on the bottom edge of the boot lid: The with a bit of high-build primer it's ready to hand over to the paint shop on Monday. I've done my bit painting the car, in future it will be done with 2-pack. SWMBO, the DA and the spare bonnet, dressing around 50 welds that are holding it together for dipping: The paint is hard-as-nails so presumably 2-pack. It was thick and I suspected there was more than one colour - but sanding showed two sets of colour, both the same shade: About three-quarters of the way there: Hopefully this paint can be used by the paint shop, though I'm not sure whether it's 2-pack or not. We'll be going with the same design as the previous bonnet (as per comments further up in this topic)
  19. Since adding the roof-rack to PAL, there wasn't as much need for the boot-lid-mounted spare wheel. I never finished the gas strut modification, so the boot lid is hard to lift, plus it obscures the rear view which is already limited by the roll cage. So last year I started work to swap to a different boot lid, but that was delayed and as we all know primer isn't water proof and it had developed some rust. Unfortunately I used seam sealer and that seems to have trapped in moisture as well, so the first job was removing that: DA to take back the lower edge of the lid to bare metal: Kurust for the less bad areas. The worst bit will get new metal welded in.
  20. A bit rusty, but definitely worth repairing as a PFL 2-door GT is one of the most desirable models.
  21. The first job today was to prepare for a visit from Dave.com tomorrow. I'm not sure what engine this is. Maybe those 8 ports mean it's pre-crossflow? Then making a thing - hacksawing a length of 38mm aluminium: Centre tool, using the 13-25mm chuck for the first time: Turning down: Fitted to the DOHC pulley: So I can use the 'dead centre' tool on the mill to accurately locate the centre of the pulley:
  22. Some good ideas and feedback there, thanks. Mark - I think the big K logo will only be possible if I mask and paint it red. Designing with CAD then having it machine-cut in vinyl is my preferred way of working. Tony - yes, probably something that could be done with the sides. Rich - yes, clearance might be a problem, but I can always duct the air away elsewhere if I need to. Also, I will probably get a custom rad made, so it could be virtually any shape.
  23. Thinking about the bonnet scoop and new decals today. Blue tape shows roughly where the scoop would be. Initially I was going to duct the air through a 75mm tube, but it's proving complicated, so I'm thinking just to cut a large hole and position the charge cooler inside the scoop and use the air flow for cooling. Working out the final position. Interestingly, Mark's Mk3 PFL bonnet has a sharp ridge down the centre. This late Facelift one doesn't - just smooth down the centre. I had thought to cut the scoop and widen it, but I like how the taper on the scoop is parallel to the tape on the bonnet profile, so it stays as it is: SWMBO was persuaded up a ladder to get a bird's eye view: Some ideas of how Kodak decals could be made to work on the new bonnet - I can't keep the current design as the scoop will get in the way. Inspired from the 'K' logo: Simplified version of same: Something closer to the existing bonnet design:
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