Danish

Very true. Paul asked was I not doing this work on my own lathe - but apart from the size, there's so much more to a job like this than just buying a lathe.

Previously Paul bored out a DOHC pulley to fit on a Pinto crank nose. But I managed to strip the teeth. :( Mike kindly helped out with a replacement: I hadn't really taken much notice of Paul's Colchester lathe before I bought my own 'table top' mini-lathe. But I took a lot more notice today and was impressed by its construction. Like the tool post: ... and the size of the chuck. The pulley is the best part of 6" in diameter, yet here it is comfortably gripped in the chuck: All done. This time Paul bored out an additional 0.1mm so I won't have to put as much force into the puller:

Some great art there. If I'd seen your design for the BT wagon a few years ago that might have ended up being my project.

I could, but the mechanical cable is already cut-and-shut to fit a sender for the Brantz rally computer, and really I could do with a second sender for the EFI ECU. So it seems easier all round to go over to electronic - one sensor feeding the ECU which can then feed everything else. Good to know the Granada has a similar setup. I spent a while looking at Ford gauges today and didn't find one - but didn't look at Granada.

Look for a spare box on ebay then you can refurb that at your leisure and then swap them over.

Today is mostly thinking about dash gauges. Pete H's Corsair gauge, thinking how to convert it to electronic ignition: Meanwhile, I'm thinking of an RX7/8 gearbox for PAL and that doesn't have a speedo drive, also I need to change the tacho to one driven by my Emerald ECU. So I've been looking for a pair of gauges which are old enough to still have a mechanical odometer, but have an electronic speedo drive. Corsa 'B' model seems to do the trick - they have a little motor inside which turns the odometer around. I'm planning to fit the gauges into a Mk3 dash pod and drive them both from the Emerald:

That one is mk5 which is plastic, so less brittle. But I think both types have rivets that have to be drilled out. Worth it though as our heater works well now.

I stripped the matrix down, cleaned off the old foam and rust. Painted it then fitted self-adhesive closed-cell foam.

My drawing looks like a child's scribble compared to the drawing Pete-H has done for me. I'll share it once it's complete and get go-ahead to post it. :)

I've had a generous offer to help get a custom trigger wheel laser cut, so I spent some time tonight doing some CAD work:

... and speaking of timing wheels: A pair of DOHC pulleys: A timing wheel I had lying around in my spares box. This fits very nicely on the lip turned by Ford at the factory, so a definite possibility. Probably best fitted by weld, which isn't known for being 'adjustable' later. The timing wheel borrowed from the twin pulley from Turbosport. This would need me to drill the pulley and bolt it on with some spacers. All possible and would be adjustable.

I think it's the way to go, especially while the engine is out so I can fit timing wheels etc.

All good, but the one of Buzzard's car is awesome!

I didn't like the first one you posted, but I like this one.

I rather enjoyed that. Definitely some good ideas, like bolting the coil packs to the side of the rocker cover. Very true, other than pootling down the strip and at the rolling road PAL's never at full power. Often at WOT, but never full power.

I'm at a point where I either need to buy a second DCOE or go EFI, so the perfect time to change over. I'm not sure whether to go with DCIE style throttle bodies or adapt something from a motorbike.

It is tempting. Whether PAL is back on the road in November, January or April next year doesn't make much difference.

:-) No progress to report on getting PAL back on the road. The engine is ready for a new cylinder head gasket and next week Paul is turning ANOTHER dohc pulley for me. I need to decide: * do I fit the 24mm whiteline ARB while the engine is out? * do I stay with Motorcraft ignition for now or move to Emerald * do I buy a second DCOE or go to furl injection Decisions. It would be good to have PAL back on the road butgetting a lot of upgrades too is tempting.

Nice approach. I've rubbed back runs before and taken too much paint away, so I'll try to remember this.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Paul B" data-cid="676900" data-time="1535966787"><p> My pocket tells me to buy FloFlex but the masses say don't. <br /> But... A few of you are saying that they are OK on the facelift. Is this true?</p></blockquote> I can't say for other Facelifts but they fitted mine (1975/N reg) shell without any issues. I think I have Mk4 radius arms.

Likewise, no sponginess on mine. AFAIK, silicone fluid was developed for the US army's West German troops - to go in vehicles that were in long term storage (waiting for the Russians) and weren't going to be serviced.

I heard that. I got details for my Jaguar last year, I specifically asked only for details of reported changes of colour, but they sent the usual set of documents showing previous owners.

PAL's -AL registration is Nottingham as well. I did a bit of research and if I assume the original car came from a main dealer then it was almost certainly Sandicliffe. DMB made me up a pair of dealer plates, rear window sticker and tax disc holder.

Nice. 11 seconds is respectable in any car, but in a Fairlane is very impressive, especially the calm laid back way it appeared to run the quarter!

Finally, after all this home DIY the new equipment got a run out today when Mark came to visit and make a ball-joint tool... Drilling hexagonal bar: Proto-type ball joint splitter for the Mk3 owners' club. Our's on the left, Ford's on the right. Our design needs further adjustment, but the finished article should be stronger than Ford's. Testing on a specially prepared hub carrier with ball joints guaranteed not to come out easily...<br />