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Everything posted by Barnstormer

  1. It will help in your search if you can let people know what size engine you have as 1600 sumps are slightly different to 1300 ones to clear the con rod bolts.
  2. 1st, 2nd & 3rd gear ratios are completely different but 4th is the same as it is a direct gear. However, to change a 3.5 box to a 2.97 box you need an input shaft, 3rd mainshaft gear plus the 2nd motion / laygear that sits in the bottom of the box from a 2.97:1 gearbox. You may need other parts also depending on a few things. Only the 1st and 2nd physical gears on the mainshaft are the same between the two boxes. The ratios are not the same across the two boxes (3.5 and 2.97) as the the ratios (even 1st and 2nd) are made up of a combination of two sets of gears to make each ratio for each gear, except for 4th due to being direct. Finding the gears you need on their own would probably be harder than just buying a 2000e gearbox.
  3. Yeah they are kinked, and the other bit on it is for later engines - just clamps it to the block at the side of number 3 main bearing. You could drill and tap your block if you find one of those Caterham pick-up pipes as 2731 blocks don't have the thread. You could possibly bend yours. I would be worried about creasing the pipe though - perhaps fill it with sand(?) and/or heat up.
  4. Ah OK, a Caterham sump - the pickup pipe isn't like anything you'll find easily. It has a rectangular pick-up face and gauze - see picture. I have seen custom made ones using a modified 1300 or 1600 mk1 / mk2 escort pickup pipe - you use the mk1 / mk2 escort gauze filter so it's not like the one below but should do the job. Sounds like you need to make a custom one, or keep your fingers crossed you find one!
  5. You could probably make some with some basic moulds and rubber! Getting a set is likely impossible as the demand for them is likely to be small. I've got a column change box set-up to go in a car and that has the same issue.
  6. What's an alloy trough sump? A photo might help me coz I'm thinking you might've got a dry sump sump for some reason?
  7. No problem, I don't always check in on here but if you need to contact me send me a PM. Or I can PM my details now, and if you ever need them you know how to get in contact.
  8. If you get the parts I can do it. I had a proper puller made to get 5th gear off - the manual basically advises you to wear goggles and prepare for the teeth to shatter with a normal puller! The manual doesn't even show a proper specific puller for the job (just a generic bearing puller). The tool I had made helps lessen the risk of breakage by a large amount.
  9. You will probably find that the 3.35 is still slightly short with a 2 litre pinto. The 4.03 1st gearbox should really be out of the question The original 1st gear 3.65:1 figures quoted above were fitted to family saloons : a family car fully loaded up with passengers - and perhaps even towing a caravan - needed a short ratio to get off the line with maybe 1.5 - 2 tonnes to pull! So Ford were cautious with ratios. Our (UK) Sierra Cosworth Borg Warner T5 WC gearboxes had the better ratios with 1st 2.95:1, 2nd 1.94:1, 3rd 1.34:1, 4th 1:1, 5th 0.80:1. This gearbox was designed for the UK market as I understand it (someone please correct me if I'm wrong). I believe some of the USA Mustangs had these ratios so maybe you can find something if you change your mind on ratios. The T5 Cosworth gearbox - despite being really heavy duty - has been used in a lot of N.A. cars in UK and it doesn't seem to work well with engines that like to rev - as they were designed for the Sierra Cosworth Turbo engine (high torque at low revs) and due to their lineage being from the V8 this also makes sense as V8's make torque low down in the rev range. In applications where revs are higher it appears to me that the synchros can't handle the rotational weight of the gears (which are already incredibly heavy before they start spinning!) and these tend to suffer. Don't be put off by this though - (I'm sure you know this) the gearbox is a very nice gearbox (if not worn out) and living behind a tame engine 4 cylinder engine should be fine. You're lucky that the support for the gearbox in the USA is amazing - anything you need for one is available right there. I wish it was so for us here in UK - gearbox prices for a T5 are crazy. In a lot of respects a T5 is far better than a Type 9 in part due to having taper roller bearings on input, output and cluster gears, and also having needle rollers under 1st and 2nd gears. The gear-change is nicer too.
  10. That's right but they wouldn't have been known as 2000e ratios then, they would have been known as sporting or "semi-close" and would have been fitted into the early type gearbox as found on 1200/1500 cortinas but fitted with the 116e remote gearchange as found originally on the 116e Consul Capri 1500gt, unless I am mistaken? The only Lotus Cortina that I know of that had a 2000e gearbox fitted was the works Lotus PHK614D (driven by Jim Clark, Graham Hill etc) which wasn't a car anybody could buy! At some point Corsairs had a new gearbox designed for them that took the old 3-rail main case found in the 1500 cortina (with wand gear lever) but used a re-designed tail-case with integral remote gearchange. This gearbox together with the sporting ratios - or semi-close - was released in the Corsair V4 2000e. To me the only gearbox that should be called a proper 2000e is the integral remote gearchange gearbox with semi-close ratios.
  11. That's incorrect - no factory available mk1 cortina used the 2000e gearbox. The 2000e gearbox wasn't even available to the public until the Corsair 2000e's release in 1967. Mk1 Cortina finished production in 1966. Also, a 2000e gearbox is not a Bullet gearbox, that is a similar looking gearbox to the 2000e but with different, closer ratios. In answer to the O.P.'s question some late type 2000e gearsets need a couple of different parts from an early type gearbox to work correctly as the oil lubrication of 1st gear's rear thrust face is dealt with in a slightly different way. Although different rear tail casings (early/late of both wand-type lever and remote type lever of 2000e style) will bolt on they are different in depth where the rear bearing carrier is. Get this wrong and you will crack the rear casing, have an oil leak, or have far too much mainshaft end-float.
  12. Try a squirt or two of "easy start" - if the engine starts with that you know you're ignition system is up to the job. Could then be a case of quality of fuel, or health of engine - have you checked its compression recently?
  13. If the starter is getting very hot in a short space of time it's looking like it's got a serious problem. I had the same problem with the starter running slow. The soldering in the windings had started to break up / melt. I overhauled it myself with a new armature - never had a problem since. Fairly easy job to do.
  14. Question - with the engine warm at normal temperatures (before it overheats) if you take your radiator cap off (careful!!) and look inside the radiator, is the water moving, or still? Is the thermostat working? Is the water pump up to the job? Has the impeller broken up? If your head gasket had failed I would expect to see a very clean cylinder in one or more cylinders due to super heated water. I would also expect that even if the head gasket isn't the problem that a normal Payen head gasket is not what you need for a turbo application for longevity. Perhaps you could post photos of your cylinder head face, cylinder block top, and the gasket in question?
  15. If that does happen it'll make a good test case, in particular Gordon Murray's response to it and how he deals with it.
  16. Sorry they're a bit later than promised, forgot to do it last night!
  17. The thin ring is to locate the flywheel to the crank. Don't knock it all the way in as getting it out - should you need to - will be a problem! If you can wait until later tonight I will get a photo of a crank I have with the bearing installed.
  18. I think there's about 7 different 1500 block types but all will take a 1500 crank and rods with minimal modification. Cylinder heads there are 1500, 1340, 1300, 1200 and 997; pushrods are all the same for 997, 1200 and 1340 as blocks are the same, just different cranks and rods, whereas the 1300 is different again; bearings are all the same fitment but you can get a range of materials for the bearing liner construction, and the the 997, 1200 and 1340 have 3 main bearings on the crank and the 1300 and 1500 have 5 main bearings. 4 different sumps and 3 different oil pick up pipes; different oil pumps etc etc!
  19. Yep, and you're in the right place to be guided through it though!
  20. The 15mm (all bronze one?) you bought is rarer than the 17mm hence being expensive so hopefully that will be a consolation. The one I have is a solution to the 15mm ones being hard to find.
  21. I have one of these if you find you should need one. £15 posted.
  22. It'd be terrible if you did deck the engine block and still got clearance issues. At least with the sump method it's easier to go backwards with another sump!
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