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Tigdlo

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Tigdlo last won the day on April 2

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About Tigdlo

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    BSCortina Advanced Member

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  • Current Car
    1976 Cortina 2.0XL saloon

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  • Location
    North Herts

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  1. I think that there are three types of box, if you include the MT75. I’m pretty sure that the speedo gears in those are different again! The good thing about Ford cable driven speedos is that they all operate at 1000 cable turns per mile, or so I believe.
  2. No, you’d need fewer teeth to drive the speedo faster
  3. Ford Cortina 2.0 OHC Engine I am offering this initially to forum members. I have for sale a 2.0 Pinto engine. This was removed from a very rusty, but low mileage, 1981 Cortina GLS some years ago. Later on, I bought a mk4 1.6 Cortina, with the intention of converting it to 2 litre spec, so this engine was fully stripped and checked. It was found to be in excellent condition, with very little wear to the bores, crank bearings etc, so was reassembled with new main and big end bearings, piston rings, gaskets and seals etc. The oil pump was also checked, and found to be fine. The cylinder head was fully checked, the valves re-seated, and the ports lightly cleaned up. The camshaft is the original. After all this, the project never happened, and this engine has sat under my bench ever since, un-run. It is being sold complete with flywheel and good used clutch, original Weber carb, foam air filter, standard inlet manifold, and a EFI exhaust manifold with twin down pipes. I am asking £700 cash, which I think is fair. I am based in north Herts, and although I’m unable to do any heavy lifting these days, I do have an engine crane to assist with loading. Cheers.
  4. Ford speedo gears can be a bit of a ballache! The problem is that the drive gear, on the gearbox tailshaft of your T9 box, might have a different number of teeth from that of your old box. The simplest way would be to count the teeth on the T9 box nylon driven gear, and calculate what you actually require. Incidentally, I don’t think that a 1.6 would normally be fitted with a type E box as standard. I could well be wrong, but I’m sure that they were only used in the 2.0 cars. I hope that this helps!
  5. Looks very clean and original! Damage doesn’t appear to be too bad. Keep us informed of your progress, please.
  6. If the fluid has been in there a long time, it’s probably mainly H2O! I would suggest changing it asap.
  7. Does the car or engine vibrate when it’s running in neutral and the car stationary? If so, the flywheel or clutch is unbalanced, and needs sorting before revving the engine hard. Propshaft vibrations tend to occur at a particular speed. Again, if this is the case it needs dealing with, before damage is done to the gearbox and/or rear axle. One final point, Ford fitted a two-piece propshaft for a reason, and it wouldn’t have been to save money!
  8. Ah - A tool for removing Boy Scouts from horse’s hooves, or possibly for fitting those infernal rubber bushes on the front anti-roll bar.
  9. Thank you for that. I hadn’t realised that 1k is porous, that was the problem with the other primers I had been using. I intend trying out a few test areas first, to see if there’s any reaction when celly is sprayed on top. Might investigate 2k epoxy, but isn’t it more toxic?
  10. A question for the paint experts on here. I have recently started using 1k Epoxy Primer on the panels of my Mk3, hoping to prevent further corrosion during it’s restoration. I am planning to spray the car in cellulose later on. Are there likely to be any problems with that?
  11. I have heard of people leaving the key out altogether, and just relying on the bolt being tight enough to stop it slipping. Of course, more modern engines quite often don’t key the pulley to the camshaft.
  12. 0.030” isn’t a great deal, but if you decide to correct the cam timing, it would be far more cost effective to file a bit off the camshaft key.
  13. I would only change the bearings if there is any roughness or excess slop in them. It appears that they are fine. Might be worth measuring the bearings for future reference before you reassemble everything.
  14. I assume that you’ve removed the four M10/17mm AF bolts holding the bearing retainer and backplate? Once removed, re fit the brake drum back to front to the hub with the four wheel nuts reversed, then clout the drum outwards with a large hide or rubber mallet (NOT a steel hammer), and with a bit of luck, the bearing will slide out.
  15. That noise could be the diff gears meshing, and the sound travelling down the half shaft. I think that your next move would be to remove the half shaft and bearing. Quite often, they come out without too much bother, especially if they’ve been removed before. It should then be pretty obvious if the bearing is knackered.
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