Tigdlo

A company like Pirtek should be able to make these. They have branches in most large towns throughout the country. If you can, take the old hoses to use as patterns.

Very nice!

I have mentioned this before on here, my 1966 RHD 1500 Super that I owned 40 years ago, had a number of components not usually found on UK cars. Front crossmember with bump stops and brackets for a sump guard, but no sump guard. Forged track control arms Rear springs with extra leaves Steering lock Laminated screen It didn’t have the strengthening struts between the strut tops and bulkhead. I was the third owner, and there was nothing in the paperwork to suggest that it was a Police spec car.

My recollection from Mk1 Transit ownership, is that the very early Transits had different front dampers from later ones. The mounting points were altered, and as a result, the damper lengths were changed.

Years ago, I fitted a Lockheed servo to my 1966 V4 Transit, and it did improve the braking with its drum brakes, especially when towing my racing Mini. One day, when travelling down the M4, the engine started making an odd noise, and glancing in the mirror all I could see behind me was a massive cloud of fog, with other vehicles hooting and flashing their lights. I pulled onto the hard shoulder and opened the bonnet expecting to find a blown engine, but nothing! Oil level fine, but did notice that the brake fluid level, which I’d checked before starting the journey, had gone down. I disconnected the vacuum pipe from the servo, and plugged it with a bolt I found lying on the ground, and continued the journey with no further drama, although I was back to non-servoed brakes.

Thank you for your replies, very useful information!

Thanks for that, I’ll investigate getting mine done.

May I ask who refurbished the servo, and the cost? Cheers

I am planning to fit my Mk3 4-door shell onto the rotisserie that I made for the restoration of my two Ford 100e’s. Are the bumper mounts either side of the radiator aperture strong enough to support the bare shell at the front, also, at what height should the pivot be placed so that it’s all fairly well balanced? The shell is not at all weakened by rust, I need to totally strip and reseal the underside, and I’m too old now to grovel around underneath!

They should pull out, like large plastic grommets.

Can you not use standard bolts with a 17 mm head? The original bolts were easier to fit using a zip gun at the factory.

I discovered that the outlet pipe on mine was soft soldered (from the factory), when I soldered a return pipe in position for my EFI conversion. I think that resoldering the pipe would be far better than any sealant or Araldite.

Like most jobs, it’s better to have somebody else do it!

It could very well be from the propshaft. Try refitting the rear flanged joint by 180 degrees, and see if that makes a difference. Hope this helps!

If you do buy self adhesive foam sheet, make sure that it’s closed cell foam. Open cell foam absorbs water like a car sponge.